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■ip(iap»ig<ia-ig— M i j > r » ^)yw >i t, Qi i o» w »-ji<M.->^^**^ * 




v^N^;'.v. 




MAYORS OF PORTLAND 



1. A. L. EMIiRSON. 

2. JONATHAN Dow. 

3. john anderson. 

4. Levi Cutter. 

5. J. C. Churchill. 



6. E. Grhelv. j 

7. J. B. CAHOON. 

8. NEAL DOW.- 

9. Albion K. parris. | 



10. JAS. T. McCom;. 

11. William Willis. 

12. jedediahjewett. 

13. Joseph Howard. 



14. W. \V. THOMAS. 

15. JACOB MCLELLAN. 

16. A. E. Stevens. 

17. Wm. L. Putnam. 



iS. B. Kingsbury, Jr. 

19. GEO. P. Westcott. 

20. R. M. Richardson. 

21. FRANCIS FRSSENDEN. 



Portland and Vicinity. 



ItV 



EDWARD 11. HLWELL, 



fffibslrtilcO. 




PORTLAND, Me.: 

I'Uiir.isiiF.i) iiv 
LORING, SHORT, & HARMON, and W. S. JONES. 

1870. 



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1876, by 

W. S. JONES, 
In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 








LAND >ND VICItilTY. 



CASCO BAY. 

Tlu' early voyagers, as they skirted along the shores of Maine, in llie 
twilight hours of discovery, were charmed with its secure harbors and noble 
rivers, where sheltered groves and grassy banks lured them to the land. In 
the attractions of calm waters, and sunny isles clothed with a luxuriant 
forest, the bay of which we write excelled all others. Captain John Smith, 
the first of Maine tourists, in his account of his famous summer trip along 
our shores, in 1614, thus describes it : " Westward of Kennebec is the 
Country of Aucocisco, in the bottom of a deep bay full of many great isles, 
which divide it into many great harbors." This was Casco Jii(i/, the present 
name of which is a corruption of the Indian word Aucocisco, which, accord- 
ing to some authorities, signifies " a resting place," though others give it 
the interpretation of cnm" or heroti. In view of the many halcyon retreats 
from toil and care which its islands afford, the former would seem to be the 
more a]ipropriate designation, though the water fowl indicated by the latter 
still frequent the bay. 

One can imagine the delight, when this land was new and clothed with 
the glamour of surprise, of sailing from the surges of the Atlantic into the 
sheltered roadsteads of this bay, along the green shores of its fovest-crowned 
islands and out-reaching ])eninsulas, far into the heart of the land, where the 
placid waters reflected in their cool depths the verdant foliage which over- 
hung them, in 'the silence and seclusion of a solitude unbroken save by the 
songs of birds of varied plumage flitting through "the forest i-riineval." 
No element of beauty was wanting to this miniature archipelago, and the 
native inhabitants, who had an eye for sunny spots and grassy glades, made 
it a place of frequent resort. They found in its waters an inexhaustible 
supply of provisions, and the evidences of their feasts still remain in the 
heaps of clam-shells found on the shores of the islands. 

Here is a little bay, extending from Cape Elizabeth to Cape Small 
Point, a distance of about twenty-live miles, with a deptli of about fifteen 
miles, more thickly studded with islands than any water of like extent on 
the coast of the United States. Unlike the low, sandy islands of the 
Massachusetts coast, tliese are of the most picturesque forms, while boM 



POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 



headlands and peninsulas jut far out into the waters. There is the greatest 
possible variety in the forms and groujDing of these islands. Some lie in 
clusters, some are coupled together by connecting sand-bars, bare at low 
water, while others are solitary and alone. Nearly all of them are indented 
with beautiful coves, and crowned with a mingled growth of maple, oak, 
beech, pine and fir, extending often to the water's edge, and reflected in 
many a deep inlet and winding channel. In the thick covert of the firs and 
spruces are many green, sunny sj^ots, as sheltered and remote as if far 
inland, while beneath the wide-spreading oaks and beeches are pleasant 
walks and open glades. 

These islands are of all sizes, from the little rocky islet, covered by the 
sea at high tide, to those which contain thousands of acres and hundreds of 
inhabitants. Though some of them present bold headlands, there is nothing 
barren or desolate in their asjDect. For the most j^art they rise like mounds 
of verdure from the sea, forest-crowned, and from their summits one may 
behold on the one hand the waves of the Atlantic, breaking almost at his 
feet, and on the other, the placid waters of the bay, spangled by multitudi- 
nous gems of emerald, while in the dim distance he discerns, on the horizon, 
the sublime peaks of the White Mountains. It is imjDOSsible to conceive of 
any combination of scenery more charming, more romantic, more captiva- 
ting to the eye, or more suggestive to the imagination. 

It is a popular legend that the islands in Casco Bay number three hun- 
dred and sixty-five, a compliment to the days of the year which is also 
commonly attributed to Lake George, Lake Winnepesaukee, and several 
other bodies of water. Whence it had its origin it is impossible to say, 
since numerous as are these islands it is not difiicult to count them. If 
we take down the chart and run our eye over it we see the islands fall 
naturally into three divisions or ranges, which we will set down in their 
order, beginning each with the island nearest Portland, and running 
eastward : 

Inner Range. — Mackay's, The Brothers (2), Ten Pound, Clapboard, 
Sturdevant, Basket, Cousins, Littlejohn's, Lane's, Moges' (2), Crab, Bibber's, 
Silver (4), two unnamed. 

Middle Range. — Hog or Diamond (2), Cow, Crow Knob, Chebeague 
(2), Crow, Irony, Goose Nest, Little Green, French, Whaleboat (2), Goose 
(2), Goslin (2), Shelter, Birch, White's, four unnamed. 

Outer Range. — House, Cushing's, Ram, Peaks', Pumpkin Knob, Over- 
set, Marsh, Long, Stepping Stones (3), Hope, Crotch, Jewell's, Sand, Outer 
Green (2), Broken Cave (3), Bates', Ministerial, Stave, Little Bangs, Stock- 
man's, Whale Rock, Haddock Ledge, Mark, Eagle, Upper Flag, Horse, 
Birch, Haskell's, Turnip, Jaquish, Bailey's, Orr's, Jebaskadiggin, Pond, Ram 
No. 2, Cedar (6), Elm (2), Ragged, Bold Dick, White Bull, Little Bull, 
Sisters (2), Mark No. 2, Brown Cow, Gooseberry, Wood (2), Burnt Coat, 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



Jameson's Ledge, Lower Flag, Horse No. 2, Malaga, Bear, Rogue, one un- 
named, Jenny's, Yarmoutli, two unnamed, Pole, Hopkins', Bateman's, Long 
No. li, three unnamed. 

Here are one hundred and twenty-two islands and islets, and we have 
perhaps left uncounted many rocks and reefs which might be made to swell 
the number, but it iirobably would not extend beyond one hundred and 
fifty. Many of the names of these islands are curious. Some are derived 
from carlv proprietors, others owe their origin to some trifling incident or a 
characteristic feature, while a few, like Chebeague and Jebaskadiggin, are of 
the aboriginal tongue. They are all liomely and unromantic enough, but 
are not easily changed. Hog Island, which, though so inelegantly named, is 
one of the most beautiful in the bay — 

"The gem of Casco's lovely isles," 
has been so called since 1634, though it is now beginning to be known as 
Diamond Island, a name long applied to the largest of its many coves. 

The bay is almost as remarkable for its peninsulas as for its many 
islands. At its Avestern extremity, between the sheltered waters of Fore 
River and Back Cove, extends the Neck on which Portland is built. At the 
eastern end the long narrow peninsula of Ilarjiswell stretches far out into 
the quiet waters, flanked by many islands. The land here is very much 
broken, the islands cluster thickest, and the mainland reaches out many 
finscers, between Avhich creeks and inlets and tidal rivers extend far inland. 
The shore is fringed with picturesque "Points." The Presumpscot River 
brings down in a full stream, the waters of Sebago Lake, and discharges 
them at a point a little north of Portland liarbor. 

The waters of the bay present as many attractions to fishermen and 
sportsmen as do the islands to the seekers after hc.ilth and recreation. The 
early voyagers found them full of fish. Hither came Capt. John Smith in 
pursuit of whales, though he caught not many. The early settlers, when 
they met to talk over the wonders of the new land, told marvellous tales of 
the strange creatures found in tlie bay. Jocelyn, who was here in 1639, tells 
of one Mitton, a great fowler, who encountered a triton, or mereman, in its 
waters. As he was fetching a compass about a small island for the advan- 
tage of a shot, the creature laid its hands ujwn tlie side of the canoe, where- 
vipon the said Mitton actually chopped one of them off with a hatchet, and 
he solemnly averred that it was in all respects like the hand of a m:in. The 
triton presently sank, dyeing the waters with its jiurple blood, and uiitortu- 
nately his like has never since been seen. Jocelyn, too, makes the lust 
mention of the sea serpent on our coast, seen coiled up like a cable on a 
rock at Cape Ann. This monster must therefore be considered an ancient 
inhabitant of our waters, and Casco Bay is one of its favorite haunts. It 
has frequently been encountered off Cajte Klizahcth, and we have good 
authority for saying that it has even ])aid our harbor a visit within a few 
years past. 



6 PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



On a ledge in the inner bay, off the shore of Falmouth, the seals still 
breed, and sport in the calm waters. More real is the presence of the pug- 
nacious sword-fish, in the pursuit of which our fishermen find not only sport 
but pi'ofit, since its flesh is by many esteemed a delicacy, and finds a ready 
sale in our market. Of the other edible fish there is great abundance and 
vai'iety. The earliest inhabitants made great profit by catching fish and 
drying them on Richmond's Island, and for more than two hundred years 
House Island has been the scene of similar operations. Looking from some 
headland, on a bright summer day, it is a beautiful sight to see, on the 
horizon, the white sails of the mackerel fleet standing out against the blue 
sky. Here, too, the oleaginous porgy is pursued by steamers, while the 
fishermen catch for the market, cod, pollock, hake, haddock, and halibut. 
Along the rocky shore the cunner or sea-perch, best of pan fish, is caught, 
and furnishes the substantial dish of many a feast on the rocks, while in the 
creeks and inlets the silvery smelt abounds. 

Of sea fowl there is still no lack, though they are not so abundant as 
fifty or even twenty-five years ago, when off Bald Head, an outer promon- 
tory at the south-eastern extremity of the bay, flocks might be seen passing 
for days together. From the middle of April to the middle of May great 
numbers of old squaws (pin-tail ducks) fly into the bay in the morning, 
through Hussey's Sound, to feed, and out again at night, to rest on the 
ocean. Then the gunners station themselves in boats, in a line fi'om Long 
Island to Peaks' Island, and shoot at the birds as they fly over. A few 
geese are occasionally shot, but the shooting of coots (surf or velvet ducks) 
affords more extensive sport than any other during April and May. These 
are shot over decoys and in flying past points of land and over bars. Bald 
Head is a great resort of sportsmen, for there the coots, which will not fly 
over i.he mainland when migrating, may be shot in passing. 

Walking along the solitary outer shores the lonesome cry of the loon is 
often heard, and they are sometimes seen in flocks of five or ten. The long 
legged heron may be met at times stalking along the shore in search of fish, 
and the ospray, or fishing eagle, builds its nest on some tall tree, and catches 
its prey by darting upon them when near the surface of the water. 

For many years this bay has been a pleasure ground, the resort of 
lovers of the picturesque, as well as those in pursuit of fish and game. How 
many pleasant associations cluster around the recollections of the pic-nic 
parties at Diamond Cove, or fishing excursions farther down the bay. Year 
by year the stream of summer visitors increases. An afternoon trip to the 
islands -is the daily recreation of our citizens in the summer season. The 
extension of our railroad system now enables excursion parties, numbering 
many hundreds, to come from points fifty miles distant in the country and 
spend a day in the enjoyment of the refreshing sea breezes of our bay, 
returning home at night. From Canada and other distant points come 



VOiri'LAMi AM) VKIXITY. 7 

visitors who make a longer stay, filling to overflowing the munerous hotels 
and boarding-houses on Cushing's, Peaks', and Little Chebeague Islands, 
and finding health and recreation in sea bathing and fishing. 

Parlies cani]»ing out dot with their white tents the shores of Little 
Diamond, Cushing's and Peaks', an<l the more distant and secluded islands 
of the bay. In the height of the season there have probably been at times 
as many as five hundred people camping out on the islands of Casco Bay. 
The building of summer cottages has begun, and before the lapse of many 
years it must become one of the most frequented summer resorts on our 
coast. Many steamers now fret its waters in the summer season, and fieets 
of pleasure yachts frequent its secure roadsteads. 

In beauty of scenery, in wide ocean views, healthful breezes, and facili- 
ties for boating, bathing and fishing, it offers a most desirable place for tlir 
recreation of visitors, and the happiness of its permanent inhabitants. 

How delightful to sail through this enchanting bay, steering now hither 
and now thither, as caprice impels or as perpetually changing views attract 
us. We may thread the intricate channels of the lower bay, where land 
and water mingle in delightful confusion ; we may sail through the calm 
waters of Broad Sound, past the out-lying Jewell's Island, wliere it is said 
Capt. Kidd buried a portion of that great ill-gotten fortune which he scat- 
tered so lavishly over the world; we may pass into Luckses Sound in view 
of the lofty, forest-crowned Hope Island, and entering the passage betwet-u 
Long Island and Great Chebeague, — largest of the group, containing over 
two'thousand acres, — touch at Little Chebeague, and so skirting the shores 
of Lonu Island and crossing Hussey's Sound, catching a glimpse of Diamond 
Cove, that dimple of beauty in a Hog's snout, pass through IL.g Islau.l 
Roads, with the green shores of Peaks' Island on one hand and the rocky 
wall of Hog Island on the other, and entering Portland Harbor see, at its 

liead, the city, like 

'♦ a sea Cybele, IVesh from ocean, 

Uisiiif; with her tiara of proiui towers, 
At airy distance, with majestic motion, 
A ruler of the waters and their powers." 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



PORTLAND. 



HISTORY. 

Settled iu 1632 — Populatiou, by census of 1870, 31,418; by school census of 1875, 
34,420. Area, 1666 acres; including islands, 4,600. Nortli latitude 43 deg., 39 
min., 27 sec. ; west longitude from Greenwich 70 deg., 15 min., 40 sec. Assessed 
valuation, 1875: real estate, $18,423,300; personal estate, $12,619,201— total, 
$31,042,501. 

The two centuries and a half which have nearly elapsed since the settle- 
ment of Portland may be divided into five periods, each ending Avith an 




Portland in 1632, with Cleeves and Tucker building the first log house 



important event in its history. The first extends from — ^-'^^r--"'^^ 
1632 to 1690, and covers the time of settlement and of destruction by the 
Indians. At its beginning we find George Cleeves and Richard Tucker, 
driven by Robert Winter from the proprietors' lands at the mouth of the 
Spurwink, making a new home for themselves on the shores of the Avooded 
peninsula jutting out into the quiet waters sheltered by Cape Elizabeth, on 
which now stands the city of Portland. Cleeves landed on the beach now 
covered by the made land of the Grand Trunk Railway, at a point a little 
east of the foot of Hancock street, where a small brook made its way into 



I'oir/'LAX/) AX/> VK'INITY 



9 



the bay. Here he built the first house and planted tin- first torn, liis field 
extending westward to Clay Cove. Our first settler was a restless, ambi- 
tious and self-willed man, long prominent here ; his partner Richard Tucker 
was of a more quiet disposition, and attended to the trading, while Cleeves 
devoted himself to public alYairs. At lirst they were sipiatters, but in 1087 
Cleeves went to England and obtained from Sir Fertlinamlo Gorges, the pro- 
prietor of this part of Maine, a grant of the peninsula on which he had buill, 
:ind other neighboring lands and islands. These he proceeded to parcel out 
to settlers who sought the place, and a scattered community grew up on the 
edge of the wilderness. It was long without government, and the morals 
which ])revailed were not of the highest order. The jieople devoted them- 
selves principally to fishing, and cheating the Indians in the purchase of 
their furs. Beaver skins constituted their chief currency. They were 
roughly clad and coarsely fed. They lived in temporary shelters of logs, 
filled in with clay, or in iiouses of one story, with thatched roofs and 
wooden chimneys. The 
impenetralile forest was 
behind them, the open 
ocean before them, and 
this was their highway 
;iiid tlie chief source of 
their sustenance. They 
liad no roads, and when 

, . Ill 1 J The main road to Massachusetts. 

they traveled by land 

to Massachusetts they crejtt along the seashore on the beaches, which were 
the first highways. The settlement came to be known as Casco. In 1658 
Massachusetts usurped the government of this territory and gave the name 
of Falmouth to the town, but this ])ortion of it continued to be called Casco 
Neck until its incorporation as Portland in ITSC*. Falmouth comprised, in 
addition to the Neck, the territory now occupied by the towns of Cape 
Elizabeth, Deering, Westbrook and Falmoutli. Of course with Massa- 
chusetts rule came the imperative order for the settlement of a minister, 
and the people built the first meeting-house on the jioint now occupied by 
the Portland Company's works. There officiated the Rev. Mr. IJurroughs, 
a man so amiable and generous-liearted that the enlightened jieople of Salem 
afterwards hanged him for a wizard. 

The settlement grew but slowly. In 107;') there were only forty fami- 
lies in town, of which but four or five lived on the Neck, then mostly 
covered with a dense forest. During these forty or fifty years the Indians, 
who from the first had received them hosjjitably, dwelt in ]»eace with these 
new comers. In return, all along this coast, they had been outrageously 
wronged by vagabond and unprincipled white men, and at last the day 
of wrath came. In 1G7;") King Phili]> arose to avenge the wrongs of his 




10 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 




First Church in Por-tland. 



people, and in the following year the blow fell upon Falmouth, All the 
settlements in the town were ravaged, and the inhabitants who had not 
previously sought refuge in more secure places were killed or carried into 

captivity, and the place was entirely de- 
stroyed. The town remained desolate until 
the peace of 1678, when the inhabitants be- 
gan to return and build up the waste places. 
Fort Loyal, the largest fortification on the 
coast, was erected on a rocky eminence near 
the foot of India street, where the round- 
house of the Grand Trunk Railway now 
stands, and Falmouth became a frontier 
jDOSt. Government commissioners reallotted the land to new settlers, and 
the old proprietors quarreled with them about it. A new element in the 
population was added by the accession of a party of French Huguenots. 
The town began to prosjDcr again. Mills were set up and inroads were 
made on the forest. Trade in fish and lumber was oj^ened with the towns 
in Massachusetts. Roads were laid out, though they were mere foot-paths 
through the forest, — no vehicles having been introduced. In 1681 the first 
tavern was opened, and licensed to sell spirituous liquors, the intercourse up 
to this time having been so limited that no inn was needed. 

In 1688 the population had increased to six or seven hundred, compris- 
ing eighty families, twenty-five of whom were living on the Neck. Then 
came the second Indian war, caused partly by the failure of the English to 
fulfil their treaty stipulations with the In- 
dians, and partly by the instigation of the 
French. In 1689 the timely arrival of 
Major Church, with a force of volunteer 
troops and friendly Indians, saved the town 
from destruction. A battle was fought on 
the farm of Anthony Brackett, under Bram- 
hall's Hill, in which the Indians were de- 
feated and driven off, the whites suffering a 
loss of eleven killed and ten wounded. 
Next year, 1690, the French and Indians came down five hundred strong, 
killed Lieutenant Clark and his scouting party of thirteen men on Munjoy's 
Hill, captured Fort Loyal after a siege of five days, and carried Captain 
Davis, commander of the fort, and his surviving garrison captives to 
Quebec. Thus the Neck was again made desolate, became a thoroughfare 
for the savage and a resort for beasts of prey, and for many years was 
known only as "deserted Casco." The war continued until 1698, after 
which a few old settlers straggled back to their desolated homes. The 
center of population and defence now shifted to New Casco, a point of 



iiiiiit^w 




First Hotel in Portland. 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. U 



land east of the Presumpscot, where a fort was built in 17U(i. In 1703 the 
war broke out again, and in that year twenty-five persons were killed l»y 
the Lulians on Purpooduck, ut Spring Point, near where Fort Preble now 
stands. The town was now entirely deserted of inhabitants, and did not 
become the scene of further cruelties during the war. 

The second period begins with the resettlement of the town in ITlTi, 
and ends with its destruction by Mowatt in 1770. This was the era ol" 
colonial growth and pros])erity. In 1717 one Ingersoll built a hut on the 
Ni'ck, where he lived some time alone, being thence called Governor Inger- 
soll. In 1718 twenty families were settled there in a compact and defen- 
sible manner. They clustered principally about the foot of India (then 
called IJroad) street, and eastward along the beach where had stood the 
houses of Cleeves and Munjoy. This continued to be the court end of the 
town until after the peace of 1783. The second meeting-house was erected 
at the corner of Middle and India streets, where Rev. Thomas Smith, in 
17iI7, commenced his long ministry of over sixty-eight years. 

When the town was incorporated in 1718 the Neck, above Clay Cove, 
was all forest and swamp. A brook flowed from the northern part of 
Hampshire street into the cove, which was crossed by bridges on Fore and 
^Middle streets, under which boats i)assed. There are men now living who 
remember the old bridge on Middle street. The passages were at first only 
trails or foot-paths through the woods, but gradually grew into streets, as 
vehicles requiring them were introduced, and they were named the Fore, 
the Middle, and the Back streets, the name of the latter, after the Revolu- 
tion, being changed to Congress street. In 1774 the territory was occupied 
as far westward as Center street, the upper portion of the Neck still being 
covered with woods ; this was at the close of a period of sixty years of 
steady growth. The Indians, broken and scattered, made jieace in 17'J5, 
which lasted for many years; they dwindled away by death and by emigra- 
tion to Canada. They took part against the English in the French wars of 
1744 and the following years, and Falmouth was frc(piently alarmed by 
their depredations in the neighborhood, but was never again seriously 
threatened by them. In 175.') it had ceased to be a frontier post, and was 
free from the alarm and danger to which it had formerly been exjtosed. 
The people devoted themselves to the improvement of their condition ; new 
mills were erected, and the forest as well as the sea was made a source of 
profit. At one time in the year 1727 there were thirty vessels riding at 
anchor in the harbor of Falmouth. Commerce was reviving. The articles 
of export were fish, fur, and lumber. Population gradually increased ; in 
1753 it numbered 7'20 souls on the Neck, and in the whole town, l!,7lll, 
including 21 slaves, Parson Smith owning one. In 1771 the ])opulation of 
the Neck had increased to 2,000. 

The prosperity of the town was retarded by the fretpient wars with the 



12 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



French, into the spirit of which, however, our people heartily entered. 
They Avere Englishmen, and hated, of all things, the French, the Indians, 
and the Devil ; these were their Trinity of evil. They joined with Massa- 
chusetts in the capture of Louisburg, sending a company of fifty men, easily 
enlisted. They had their dark and troubled times, often being in danger of 
starvation from their neglect to cultivate the land. Corn was imported 
from North Carolina, and potatoes from Massachusetts, and the arrival of 
a cargo of the former was often an occasion of great rejoicing. In 1737 

Parson Smith writes in his journal : " There is 
no wood, little corn ; sad complaints every- 
where." At such times the sea was a great 
resource. In 1741 the Parson writes again : 
" The fish have but now struck in ; a great re- 
lief to people almost perishing." Still the town 
was growing, and ti-ade increased. The English 
navy was suj^plied with masts from our forests, 
the best pine trees being reserved for that pui*- 
pose, and marked with the broad arrow, Avhich 
indicated that they were not to be taken for 
other purposes by the settlers. A trade with 
the West Indies also grcAv up. On November 
1, 1766, six large ships were lying in the har- 
bor. At the commencement of the Revolution 
2,555 tons of shipping were owned in Portland. 
With the development of trade, and the 
increase of wealth, distinctions of rank obtained 
between the different classes of the community ; 
The Kings Mark, "the quality" lookcd down upon those engaged 

in mechanical employments, and disported themselves in cocked hats, bush 
wigs, and red cloaks. Dandies made themselves gorgeous in embroidered 
silk vests with long pocket flaps, and ruffles on their breasts and over their 
hands, and even little boys had their heads shaved and wore wigs, as well 
as buckskin breeches, common to all. 

In the midst of increasing refinement and wealth came the great trial 
of the Revolution. Our people, who had fought the Indians and the 
French, were now brought into deadly conflict with their own countrymen. 
They were patriots and stood up boldly for their rights as freemen. When 
the news of the battle of Lexington reached Falmouth a strong company 
was immediately sent off to Cambridge ; when the hated stamps arrived 
they were seized and burned ; when the tax was imposed upon tea it was 
resolved, in popular assemblage, " that we will not buy nor sell any India 
tea whatever " ; when the English government closed the port of Boston in 
1774, the bell of Falmouth meeting-house was muffled and tolled funereally 




l'()irn..\M> ASI> VICINITY 



i:; 



from sunrise to sunset. There were Tories in tlie town, but they were out- 
numbered and init down. For these and otlier acts of i.atriotism the town 
suffered a terrible doom. Pi.iued at his capture and detention here the pre- 
vious spring, by a party of militia from Brun.swick, Captain Henry Mowatt 
returned in (\-t(^ber, ITTo, with a fleet of five war vessels, and on the eigh- 
tecntli day of that month, a hundred an.l one years ago, laid the town in 
ashes. It was always regarded by the townsmen as his i)ersonal act, an<l 
it was one of great barbarity. The citizens nobly refused to give up then- 
arms, and Mowatt opened his batteries on the defenceless town, and not 
content with this sent parties on shore to fire the houses. The people fled 
in terror from their homes, taking with them what they could carry of their 
household goods. All the compact part of the town was destroyed, em- 
bracing 414 l)uildings, the whole loss being estimated at about £f)5,000 ; 
only lt»t» dwelling-houses were left standing, many of which were much 




T H:E 



(^,/^^inH^ 






(^No.l) 



s fs. 



T U R D A Y 



J.xa-aary i. I/85- C^ol. \) 



Mmiatufo fac-simile of Heading of first Newspaper published in Maine. 

dama<Ted. The place was again deserted, many of the inhabitants rem.)ving 
to the^country, and the few who remained am.mg the ruins suffering great 
privations. Thus, for the third time, the town was made desolate, and so 
ends the second period of its liistory. 

The third opens with the i)eace of ITsil and ends with the war ..f IM'J. 
It was the period of commercial expansion and rapid increase of wealth, 
ending with the first of those financial disasters of which the country has 
since liad frequent experience. With the establishment of national inde- 
pendence new energies were awakened, and new ideas began to prevad. 
Distinctions of rank and of dress gave way before the democratic spirit of 
the times; cocked hats, bush wigs, and breeches passed i.ut, and pantaloons 
came in. Captain Joseph Titcomb create.l quite a sensation when he re- 
turned liome from the South, in IT'.lO, wearing the latter form of the nether 
garment, — the first seen here. A sudden impulse to business was given by 



14 PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



the close of the war. Population gradually increased. In 1784 there were 
built on the Neck forty-one dwelling-houses, ten stores, and seven shops. 
In 1785 the first brick house in town was commenced, and the same year 
appeared the first newspaper, " The Falmouth Gazette," published by Ben- 
jamin Titcomb and Thomas B. Waite. In 1786 the town was divided, and 
the Neck, with the name of Portland, started on an indejDendent career, 
with a population of about 2,000. In 1793 wharves were extended into the 
harbor. In 1795 Nathaniel Deering built the first brick store. In 1799 the 
first bank was incorporated. Trade advanced westward from the old site 
at the foot of India street, and in 1800 Exchange (then called Fish) street 
was the principal seat of business. The population by this time had in- 
creased to 3,704, and in 1810 it had reached 7,169. A desirable class of 
residents came in, bringing capital Avith them. Our merchants, no longer 
content with a coasting trade, engaged in foreign commerce. Lumber and 
fish continued to be the principal exports, but ships were also built and sent 
on freighting voyages. From 1795 to 1805 the growth of the town in com- 
mercial business and general prosperity was unexampled in New England. 
Dr. Dwight, visiting the place in 1797, wrote : " No American town is more 
entirely commercial, and of course none is more sprightly." The tonnage, 
which in 1789 amounted to but 5,000, in 1807 had reached 30,000. The 
duties collected at the Custom Plouse increased from $8,109 in 1790 to 
$342,909 in 1806. Napoleon Bonaparte had thrown all Europe into war, 
and American bottoms, as being declared neutrals, monopolized the carry- 
ing trade. Portland ship-owners profited accordingly and fortunes were 
rapidly made. 

With the increase of wealth came greater refinement and a more lavish 
style of living. In 1801 our rich merchants began to build for themselves 
large and elegant houses, some of which still remain to us, the square, old- 
fashioned mansions, of noble front, with wide halls running through them, 
admitting, in the rear, into large, high-fenced gardens, where fruit trees 
flourished. Of such is the stately Matthew Cobb house, which still stands 
at the corner of High and Free streets; the mansion built by Ebenezer 
Storer, corner of High and Danforth streets, now occupied by John 
Mussey, Esq., and that built by Joseph H. Ingraham, on State street. 
These, and others like them, were the best houses in the State, and some 
which remain unaltered, like the fine old mansion on the corner of High 
and Spring streets, long the residence of the late General Wingate, 
still give evidence of the architectural taste and thorough workmanship 
of the olden time. 

But the prosperity of the town received a sudden and disastrous check 
by the non-intercourse policy of 1806, and the embargo which followed in 
1807. Commerce was at once suspended, and the almost total destruction 
of our shipping followed. Navigation fell off nine thousand tons in two 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



15 




years, all the various classes to whom it gave siijij)ort were thrown out of 
employment; eleven commercial houses stopped payment in isu7, and 
many others the fol- 
lowing year. Great 
distress prevailed 
throughout the com- 
munity, and the grass 
literally grew upon 
the wharves. In the 
war of 1812, which 
followed, our sea-far- 
ing people manned 
the privateers fitted 
out here, some of 
■which ran a success- 
ful career, and did 
great damage to the 
enemy, while others 

were soon captured Ar.d tie ^^jsg Iterally grew upon tne wnarves." 

by superior force, and their crews held as prisoners. 

We come now to the fourth period in the history of our city, begin- 
ning with the peace of 1815 and continuing to the commencement of the 
railroad era of 1840. This was a period of slow recovery from commercial 
disaster and the demoralization caused by war. Commerce revived, but did 
not flourish as it had done at the beginning of the century. Lumber con- 
tinued to be the chief export, ship])ed to the West Indies in low-decked 
brigs, which returned with cargoes of sugar, molasses, and rum. In the 
decade from 1810 to 1820 the population of the town increased only 1,412. 
In March, 1820, the District of Maine was separated from Massachusetts 
and admitted into the Union as a State. Portland became the capital of 
the new State, and held that position until the removal of the seat of gov- 
ernment to Augusta in 1832. 

In July, 1828, a great event hap])ene<l at Portland, — nothing less than 
the arrival in the harbor of the first steamboat ever brought to Maine. 
This was the Patent, a vessel of about one hundred tons burthen, owned 
by Captain Seward Porter, of Portland, who had bouglit her in New York 
to run as a j)assenger-boat between Portland and Boston. Jonathan Mor- 
gan and Captain Porter had both previously experimented with steamboats 
of their own construction, the Kennebec, built by the latter, in 1S22, having 
been the first to run in Casco Bay, but this was the beginning of the suc- 
cessful application of steam to the navigation of our waters. In 18;]:3 came 
the Chancellor Livingston, built under the direction of liobcrt Fulton, and 
the same year the Cumberland Steam Navigation Company was formed, 



16 



POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 



and, in opposition to the Chancellor Livingston, put on the line between 
Portland and Boston the steamer Commodore McDonough. The Portland 
Steam Packet Company was organized in 1844, and its boats have ever 
since run on the route with great regularity and success, — a result largely 
due to the skillful management of Captain John B. Coyle, a pioneer in 
steamboat navigation in Maine. 

Another enterprise, of which the town had great expectations, never 
wholly realized, was the construction of the Cumberland and Oxford Canal, 
to connect the waters of Sebago Lake with Portland Harbor, begun in 1828 

and completed 
in 1830, at an 
expense of 
$206,000, of 
which sum 
127,000 were 
raised by a lot- 
tery granted 
by the State. 
The Canal con- 
tinued in suc- 
cessful oj^era- 
tion for many 
years, but has 
now, through 
the extension 
of our railroad 
system, fallen 
into disuse. In 
1832, the town 
having then a 
poi^ulation of 
about 13,000, a 
city charter 
was granted to 

Middle Street, before the Great Fire of 1866. Portland. 

Middle street had now become the pi-incipal business avenue, especially 
of the retail dry-goods trade. Blocks of stores, built of brick and granite, 
had been erected, — considered spacious in those days, but low and dark 
as coinpared with the business structures built since the fire of 1866. 

About 1840 the city began to experience a depression in bu3iness, 
caused by the revolution in trade centers, brought about by the introduc- 
tion of railroads. Boston, by the extension of her railroads, had seized 
upon the trade of Vermont which had formerly come to Portland through 




PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



the Xotc-h (if the Wliite Mountains. In lS4li the rortland, Saco and 
Portsnioutli Railroad was opcni'd, and tliat also took Inisincss away from 
the city. It began to be the fasliion to say that Portland was "wilting." 
Visitors spoke of it as a beautiful little city, but a •juiet (tM place. From 
1840 to 1840 there was scarcely any increase in the population of the city. 
It became evident to our business men that it was necessary to seize the 
weapon which was l)eing wielded against them and turn it to their own 
advantage. Measures were adojited to form railroad connection with tlie 
interior. For this ])urpose a company was formed, and a charter obtained, 
to construct a railroad to Canada. 

This brings us to the fifth period in the history of Portland, commenc- 
ing in 1846 and continuing to the present time. This is the era of rail- 
roads, and though interrupted by war and conflagration, the j)rosperity 
of the city lias steadily increased since 
their introduction. With the hour 
came the man, in the ])erson of Jolin 
A. Poor, by whose far-reaching fore- 
sight, broad grasp of possibilities, and 
untiring energy, the project of a rail- 
road to Canada was set on foot. The 
conception was a grand one, but the 
undertaking seemed overwhelming to a 
little city of sixteen thousand inhabi- 
tants. Montreal was three hundred 
miles away, through mountain ranges, 
through waste spaces, through sparsely 
])0pulated regions, deeply encumbered 
with the snows of winter. Whence was 
the capital to come'? IIow was a rail- 
roa<l to be built in the face of such physical obstacles? 

Mr. Poor and Wm. Pitt Preble drove over the route in a sleigh, in 
mid-winter, to ])rove the possibility of getting through. Our merchants 
and business men took uj* the enterprise with enthusiasm; all classes of 
citizens joined heartily in the endeavor. It was a revival movement, — a 
revival of enterprise, a revival of business, a revival of prosperity, — and 
ev(;ryl)ody but a few croakers was converted. The city loaned its credit 
in bonds to the amount of siJ,()(lO,()(Hi ; eleven miles of the Atlantic and St. 
Lawrence Railroad were opened in 1S48, and in 1S5:{ it was finishe*! to its 
junction witli the Canada road from ^lontreal, — a distance from Portland 
of 14'J miles. The Grand Trunk IJailway brought our <Mty into conne«'tion 
not only with the towns ami cities of Canada, but with the vast grain-grow- 
ing regions of the West. Following its completion came, as necessary ad- 
juncts, a winter line of steamers to Liverpool, and the construction of a 




John A. Poor. 



18 POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 

new business avenue along the whole water-front of the city, — a mile long 
and one hundred feet wide, — running over tide water, across the heads of 
the wharves, — leaving high and dry old Fore street, so long the water 
street, the locality of slop-shops and sailor boarding-houses. This new 
street, — appropriately called Commercial, — is the scene of a heavy whole- 
sale trade in flour, grain, and groceries, while it also affords railroad com- 
munication across the front of the city, and with the numerous wharves. 
Then came the building of that system of railroads opening to the trade of 
Portland all parts of the State, and now consolidated under the name of 
the Maine Central. Our merchants also opened connection with the east- 
ern part of the State, and the Lower Provinces, by means of steamboat 
lines, and thus secured much of the trade Avliich had formerly gone to 
Boston. Manufacturing establishments, — like the Portland Company's 
Works and Brown's Sugar House, — also sprang up, and gave employ- 
ment to hundreds. 

The city passed through the panic of 1857-8 without serious disaster, 
and trade was reviving again when the war of the Rebellion came in 1861. 
Business then gave way to the demands of j^atriotism. The First Maine 
Regiment, Colonel Jackson, (six companies of Avhich were raised here), 
was speedily organized, though the measles prevented its being the first 
in the field. In response to later calls for volunteers our people were 
active in organizing other regiments, — especially the 5th, 9th, 10th, 12th, 
13th, 17th, and 25th; the latter a nine-months' regiment of Portland 
boys, led by Colonel Francis Fessenden. Other recruits followed, Port- 
land contributing in all 5000 men, to whom she paid in bounty $428,- 
970; and of whom 421 lost their lives in battle, or by disease. Large 
contributions were made in aid of the Sanitary and Christian Commis- 
sions, and many noble women gave their services in nursing the sick 
and wounded. 

When, one June morning, in 1863, the U. S. Revenue cutter Caleb 
Cushing was missed from her anchorage, the Collector of the port, Jede- 
diah Jewett, in conjunction with the Mayor, Captain Jacob McLellan, 
promptly manned and armed the steamers Forest City and Chesapeake, 
and pursuing the rebels who had seized her, found her becalmed near the 
Green Islands. The rebel commander. Lieutenant Reade, set the cutter on 
fire, and she blew up with a terrific explosion ; he and his crew meantime 
taking to the boats, to be captured by the pursuing steamers and confined 
in Fort Preble as prisoners of war. For this prompt and patriotic action 
the Secretary of the Treasury awarded high praise to Collector Jewett 
and his associates. 

The city came out of the war without great loss, though its commercial 
progress had been checked by the transfer of much of its shipping to the 
British flag. The war, however, had given employment to many ; money 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



19 







f-^'^ii,^' 




■p. 




was flush, and the city was again entering on a prosperous career, when, 
for tlie fourth time in its history, it was hiid in ashes and made desohite. 
On the Fourth of July, ll?iOG, a carelessly thrown lire-eracker set tire 
to a boat-builder's shop on Commercial, near the foot of High street, and 
the sparks soon communicated with Brown's Sugar House, wra]»ping that 
great structure in flames, and speeding: oriward, spite of all upposiiinn, 
spreading out like a 
fan as it went, diago- 
nally across the city, 
glowing with a fur- 
nace heat, melting 
iron, crumbling stone, 
wiping out the cost- 
liest " tire - proof '' 
structures, leaving de- 
solation in its track : 
sweeping away not 
only whole blocks, V)ul 
entire streets, massive 
warehouses, lofty 
churches, splendid 
mansions, ancestral 
homes in the crowd- 
ed and oldest part of 
the city ; spreading 
terror, anguish, and 
dismay among the 
whole population, un- 
til, at last, in the small 
hours of the morning, it burnt itself out amid the waste spaces at the 
foot of Munjoy's Hill. That night of terror and destruction will never be 
forgotten by the people of Portland. The morning saw fifteen hundred 
buildings laid in ashes; fifty-eight streets and courts reduced to a wilder- 
ness of chimneys, amid which the most familiar inhabitant lost himself; 
ten thousand jieople made houseless and homeless, and ten millions of 
property destroyed. For a moment oidy the energies of the jieople seemed 
paralyzed, and then commenced the great work of providing for the liousc- 
less and the hungry. Whole villages of tents sprang up on Munjoy, and 
elsewhere; barracks were built; generous contributions frotn abroad flowecl 
in; the work of rebuilding was begun, — advantage being taken of the 
oj)portunity to widen and straighten old streets, and «)pen new ones, — and 
now, after a lapse of but ten years, the city stands rebuilt, far handsomer 
than before the fire. 




Middle Street in Rums. 



20 



POllTLAND AND VICINITY. 



Meantime the work of railroad extension has gone on, enlarging the 
area tributary to the trade of the city, and opening new routes of jileasure 
travel. In 1873 the Boston and Maine Railroad was extended from South 
Berwick to Portland, giving easy access to Old Orchard Beach, where a 
whole village of hotels has since sprung up. In 1875 the Portland and 
Rochester Railroad completed its connections with Nashua, N. H., and 
Worcester, Mass., thus opening a direct route to New York, and saving 
many miles of travel between Portland and the great metropolis. The 
same year the Portland and Ogdensburg Railroad, — which is to open a 
new and shorter route to the Great West, and bring back some of the 






-^ 'i 



lost trade of Vermont, — was completed 
through the Notch of the White Moun- 
tains, and commanding as it does the 
most sublime and beautiful scenery, 
gave a new impetus to pleasure travel 
through Portland. 

Our merchants now command the 
trade of a large portion of the State ; 
to a considerable extent they supply Northern New Hampshire and Ver- 
mont, and find customers in the Maritime Provinces and the Canadas. 

Various branches of Manufacture, — as the rolling of railroad iron, 
the making of carriages, shoes, matches, stone-ware, and drain-pipe, have 
sprung up, and these products find a market all over the United States, 
and to some extent in foreign countries. 

The city now occupies the whole of the peninsula, from the slopes of 
Munjoy to tlie brow of Bramhall, — many elegant residences having within 



rOHTLAND AXD VICJXITY. 21 



the past few years been erectetl in what was (jiu-e " the swamp Ward," 
at the west end. The business streets, as well as those tlevoted to private 
residences, are handsomely built, lighted with gas, supplied with pure water 
from Lake Sebago, and well drained. It has thirty-five churches and i)laces 
of public worship ; nineteen well conducted public schools, attended by 
about five thousand scholars ; three daily and seven weekly newspapers, 
and is well equipped with charitable, literary, and musical associations. It 
has six national and two savings banks. The whole number of vessels V)e- 
longing to the district in 1875 was 420; aggregate tonnage, 110,830.47, — 
an increase of over 20,000 tons in two years. The total of foreign im])orts 
and exports in 1874 was §52,588,012, and the transit trade of the port is 
two or three times larger than in all the other ports of the United States 
combined. Its liarbor is deep, safe, accessil)le, and spacious. It commands 
most beautiful and varied scenery, from wide ocean views to the ever- 
lasting mountains lifting their summits in the distance. 

As a center of pleasure travel Portland presents une(|ualled facilities 
and attractions, — having the seasliore at its feet, the mountains at its back ; 
bay, islands, and inland lakes on either hand. 

With its dependent suburban villages it is the center of a popidation 
numbering not less than 5n,U00, and possesses, — in its situation, the enter- 
prise of its merchants, and the industry of its mechanics and manufactur- 
ers, — the elements of large growth and future ]n-osperity. 

TOPOGRAPHY. 

In superficial area Portland is the sniallest town in the State. Its 
territory comprises a small i)eninsula, which juts into tlie inner waters of 
Casco Bay, and sixteen islands and parts of islands, lying at a distance, 
down the bay, of from three to ten miles. The peninsula, or Neck, was 
called Jfac/iif/oii7ie by the natives, which, according to some authorities, 
means fjad chty, while others contend that its interi)retation is a knee, or 
elbow, — a terra descriptive of the great curve which the Xeck makes in 
sweeping round from the Fore River to Back Cove. The names of tlie 
islands are Peaks', Long, Cushing's, House, Great and Little Diamond (or 
Hog), part of Crotch, part of Hope, Little Chebeague, Jeweir.s, Cow, 
Ram, Marsh, Overset, Crow, and Pumpkin Knob. These islantls, accord- 
ing to the school census of 1875, contain l»ut (535 inhabitants, of whieh 
Peaks' Island has nearly one-half, 311, and Long Ishunl 242. 

The peninsula Avhich constitutes the site of the city ]>roper i)rojects 
from the mainland in a northeast direction, and is about three miles long, 
with an average breadth of three-<|uarters of a mile, — its narrowest point 
being scarce half a mile in width. On the southerly side it is divided from 
the Caj)e Elizabeth shore by an arm of the bay, called I'\)re Rivi-r, which 



22 PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 

constitutes the inner harbor, having, between Portland Bridge and the 
Breakwater on one side, and Fish Point on the other, an area of six 
hundred and seventy-seven acres, and an average depth, at mean high 
water, of about thirty feet. Vessels of the largest size ever built can 
enter the lower harbor, day or night, with forty feet of water at low 
tide, and lie safely at anchor in that depth, inside of a line connecting 
the Breakwater with Fort Gorges, and distant not more than one-half 
mile from the Great Eastern Steamship Wharves. Commissioners ap- 
pointed by the Government to examine the harbor say, "The city of 
Portland stands precisely upon the spot which a careful examination 
would pronounce to be the best." 

On the northerly side the Neck is separated from the shores of 
Deering by the waters of Back Cove, — an inner basin of large extent, 
having a sufficient depth of water, at high tide, to float vessels of con- 
siderable tonnage. 

The peninsula, therefore, has tide water on either hand, and its 
shores slope up gradually on both sides to a mean central elevation of 
more than a hundred feet, — thus affording every facility for drainage, 
and contributing to make Portland one of the healthiest cities in the 
world. At its northeastern extremity the Neck rises into an eminence 
called Munjoy's Hill, having an elevation of 161 feet, and commanding 
a delightful view of the waters of Casco Bay, its green islands, and the 
ocean beyond. At its southwestern end the land also rises into a promi- 
nence, ending with a bold bluff, called Bramhall's Hill, having a height 
of 175 feet, and affording an extensive view of farm, forest, village, and 
mountain scenery, — best seen at sunset. 

Between these two elevations the land sags, but at the lowest point, 
on the central ridge, (the head of Hampshire street), is still 57 feet 
above tide water. 

Along the whole line of this central ridge, from the slope of Bram- 
hall to the outer declivity of Munjoy, Congress street extends, the back- 
bone of the city, three miles in length. Below it, on the southern slope, 
and running parallel with it for a part of its length, are, first. Middle 
street, a business avenue devoted largely to the retail and wholesale dry 
goods trade ; second. Fore street, the ancient water street of the city, 
now devoted to miscellaneous trade ; and third, Commercial street, the 
new commercial thoroughfare, fronting the harbor, and occupied by 
wholesale traders in heavy goods. At the west end, where the Neck 
widens, "there are other longitudinal streets between Congress and Com- 
mercial, as Spring, Danforth, and York. 

On the northerly slope, also running parallel witli Congress street for 
a part of its length, are, first, Cumberland ; second, Oxford, supplemented 
on the western end by Portland ; and third, Lincoln, on the new-made 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 23 



land along the shore of Back Cove, and also supiilemenlcd, at the west- 
ern end, by Kennebec street. 

Across these streets, radiating like ribs from tla- bac-k-bonc of Con- 
gress street, are many shorter streets, of wliifli tlie iirincipal are as 
follows: At the easterly end, India street, the early site of trade and 
population; Franklin and Pearl streets, the only ones that run straight 
across the peninsula, from water to water; Excliange street, a business 
thoroughfare devoted largely to brokers, banks, and insurance agencies; 
High street and State street, devoted to private residences. 

Tlie whole peninsula is covered with a net-work of 220 streets, lanes, 
and courts, aggregating a length of forty-eight miles, while twenty-nine 
wharfs extend into the harbor and give accommodation to the commerce 
of the port. There are six avenues on the land side into town, all of 
which are over bridges, except the old road from Strondwatcr. All the 
bridges were at first supported by tolls, but now they are free. 

In addition to these there is projected, and partly completed, a Mar- 
ginal Way, running around both sides of the city, nearly five miles in 
length, and one hundred feet in width. 

The horse cars of the Portland Kailroad afford an easy means of 
transit along the whole length of Congress street ; also from the Grand 
Trunk Station, through Middle and Congress, down High, and up Spring 
streets to Bramhall's Hill ; and from the head of Preble street, in Market 
Square, through Preble, Portland, and Green streets, and the villages of 
Deering Point and Woodford's Corner, to Evergreen Cemetery and Mor- 
rill's Corner, — a distance of three and a (piarter miles. 

From east to west the city may be divided into several distinctive 
districts, as follows: Munjoy's Hill is covered with an almost distinct 
and independent village, of middle-class residences, having its own 
churches, schools, and shops. The business of tlie city centers on the 
southerly slope below Congress street, near the middle of the ])eninsula. 
The northerly slope, back of Congress street, along its whok" length, is 
devoted to private residences. The western end, rising gradually to the 
eminence of Bramhall, as in most cities, is the fashionable (piaricr, and 
having been si)ared by the great fire of ISGO, now contains the oldest 
mansions, as well as many of the newest and most elegant residences. 
The streets here are all shaded by stately elms, and the houses are sur- 
rounded by well-kept gardens and lawns, — not, as formerly, shut into 
seclusion by high board fences, but thrown open to the jjublic view by 
low, ornamental hedges, and guards. 

It will readily be seen that from the elevation of its site, and the 
character of its surroundings, Portland commands scenery of the most 
varied and beautiful description. The beauty of its location and sur- 
rounding views, has often received the warm praises of visitors and 
tourists, and is the pride and boast of its citizens. 



24 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



Looking through the vistas of the over-arching shade-trees on some 
of the streets leading to Back Cove, one catches delightful glimpses of 
tranquil M'ater and green fields, and hills beyond. It is like a picture 
set in a frame-work of foliage. 

If, in the early morning, you walk to the summit of Munjoy's Hill, 
you see the round sun swinging u]^ from the ocean, and shedding his 
golden radiance on the many green islands which dot the beautiful bay. 
If, at evening, you stand on the brow of Bramhall's Hill, you look over 
a panorama of field and forest, shining water and tree-crowned hills, with 
here and there a white church-spire pointing to the heavens, now all aglow 
with the radiance of the departing sun. 

We know of no city where, from the very center of its business 
streets, one may look out upon such beautiful views of land and water 
as may be seen from the heart of our city. Stand, at the hour of sun- 
set, at the head of Preble street, and look out over the waters of the 
Cove, reflecting the hues of the sunset sky; upon the green fields and 
tree-crowned summits of Deering, and tell us if anything can be finer. 




rOliTLAM) AM> MCJMJy 



25 



DISTINGUISHED PORTLANDERS. 



Portland numbers among its sons and dauglilcrs many wlio have given 
distinction to their birthplace abroad, as well as others who have acquired a 
local reputation for abilities displayed in the various walks of life. Among 
those who are, or have been, resident here, not 
natives of the place, may also be counted not a 
few distinguished men and women. Local pride 
may be indulged in a brief mention of the more 
prominent persons in both classes. 

To begin at the beginning, George Cleeves, 
our tirst settler and proi)rietor, was a man worthy 
of being remembered, not only for his own abili- 
ties, but as being the progenitor of some of our 
leading citizens of to-day. Though he left but 
one child, — a daughter, — liis posterity teems in 
the land. Settling on the Neck in 163*2, he ob- 
tained a grant of the land from Gorges, and 
subsequently, as Deputy-President under Rigby, 
ruled over the whole province of Ligonia, ex- 
tending from Cape Porpoise to Cape Elizabeth, 
inchuliiig both. F'or over thirty years he was 
prominent in affairs in this region, dying some 
time previous to 1G71, at a great age. Pie was 
undoubtedly one of the most distinguished of tlie 
early settlers in these parts ; a man of great ac- 
tivity and enterjirise, an ardent royalist, and 
warmly attached to the Church of England ; 
ambitious and self-reliant, a partisan and a 
leader; frequently involved in controversy, — 
once fined, in the court at Saco, five shillings 

for rash speeches; a rough old character, well suited to the turbulent 
times in which he lived. We derive all our property-rights through him, 
and his name should long ere this have been kept in remembrance by 
being given to some jniblic institution. 

The most prominent figure in our history, through the greater part of 
the eighteenth centurv, was the liev. Thomas Smith, tin' fir^f ordained 





26 PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



minister after the resettlement of the town. His descenclents are also 
numerous, — some of them to be found among our most prominent and 
useful citizens. For a long course of years he was the most distinguished 
preacher in this part of the country ; for many years the only physician in 
town; one of a class peculiar to colonial times, the like of whom are no 
longer to be found. Our early annalist, his Journal is full of quaint ob- 
servations on the men and events of his times, — preserving for us a life- 
like picture of the manners and customs of the last century. He lived 
under the reign of four sovereigns, and the presidency of George Wash- 
ington, dying in 1795, in the ninety-fourth year of his age, after a ministry 
with the people here of sixty-eight years and two months. 

One of the most distinguished citizens of the town at the outbreak of 
the Revolution was General Jedediah Preble, known as Brigadier Preble. 
He had served in the old French wars ; has the credit of having been with 
Wolfe on the Plains of Abraham ; was twelve years Representative of the 
town ; appointed Brigadier General by the Provincial Congress ; afterwards 
served as the first Senator from Cumberland county, under the constitution 
of 1780, and as Judge of the Common Pleas, dying in 1784, at the age 
of seventy-seven. 

The earliest members of the bar, resident here, were Theophilus Brad- 
bury and David Wyer, who entered upon practice in this town in 1762, 
previous to which time there were no lawyers in what, now forms the 
county of Cumberland. Bradbury acquired a good practice. John Adams 
writing to his wife in 1774, and querulously comj^laining of the success of 
lawyers younger than himself, says: "Bradbury, at Falmouth, they say, 
grows rich very fast." Mr. Bradbury served as a member of Congress, and 
as one ^f the Judges of the SujDreme Court of Massachusetts, dying in 1803. 
Mr. Wyer was King's Attorney for the county before the Revolution, but 
died in 1776, at the early age of thirty-five. These two being the only 
resident lawyers were invariably employed upon opposite sides. Bradbury 
was grave and judicious; Wyer full of wit and vivacity, and many were 
the combats between them, giving rise to scenes in the Forum very much 
to the amusement of their mutual friends. 

The next ante-revolutionary character we have to introduce was a sort 
of factotum, a type of Yankee versatility and usefulness. Samuel Freeman, 
born in this town in 1742, in early life traded and kept school ; entered 
public life as an advocate of the rights of the colonies in 1775, being chosen 
Delegate from Falmouth to the Provincial Congress ; afterwards served as 
Clerk of the Courts for forty-six years, as Register and Judge of Probate 
forty-five years, as Postmaster twenty-eiglit years, as Selectman twenty-four 
years, as Deacon of the First Parish forty-five years, and also President of 
the Maine Bank and as President of the Overseers of Bowdoin College for 
a number of years, finding time in the intervals of business to publish 



PORT L AM > A\l) VIC I MTV. 



27 




several law books, and to edit and publish the raanu8crij)t journal of the 
Rev. Thomas Smith. 

In 1770 Thooj)hilu.s Parsons, afterwards the distinguished Cliicf Justice 
of Massachusetts, came here to take 
a school, and taught for a number of 
years, at the same time studying law 
under TheophiUis Bradbury, and was 
admitted to the Cumberland Bar in 
July, 1774. While here he was re- 
markalile for his studious habits. 

Sheriff William Tyng, of colonial 
times, stands out as our prominent 
Tory; accepting a colonel's commis- 
sion from General Gage ; jiroscribed 
and l)anished in 1775, but returning 
in 17'.to, and dyiui;- here in 1807. 

Among native and resident law- 
yers who have achieved distinction at 
the Cumberland Bar, we may men- 
tion the learned jurist and laAV writer, 
Simon Greenleaf ;^ Stephen Longfel- 
low, the father of the poet, long in 
successful practice here ; Prentiss Mellen, who rose to be Chief Justice of 
the State, the duties of which office 
he discharged with singular fidelity 
and ability ; Ezekiel Whitman, mem- 
ber of Congress for four terms, and 
Chief Justice of the Su])reme Court 
of Maine ; Samuel Fessenden, the 
able lawyer, whose noble presence 
and commanding oratory are still 
fresh in our recollection, distinguish- 
ed not less as a ])]iilaiitliropist and 
friend of the slave than as an advo- 
cate ; Albion K. Parris, Governor of 
the State at thirty-three, and long 
])romincnt in law jiractice here ; 
William Pitt l*rel)le, who served as 
Judge, was Minister to the Nether- 
lands, and bore an important part in 
the settlement of the northeastern 
boundary question ; Ashur Ware, >J"'^6<' George f. shopicy. 

the learned writer on Maritime law, who served as Judue of the United 



Ex-Chief Justice Ether Shepley. 




28 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 




Hon. William Pitt Fessenden. 



States District Court for forty-four years ; Ether Shepley, ex-Chief Justice 
of the State, and his son, George F. Shepley, who served in the war of the 

Rebellion, and is now Judge of the 
United States Circuit Court ; Ed- 
ward Fox, the present Judge of 
the United States District Court ; 
Nathan Clifford, cx-United States 
Attorney General, ex-Minister to 
Mexico, and Justice of the Supreme 
Court of the United States; Wil- 
liam Wirt Virgin, one of the Judges 
of the Supreme Court of Maine • 
Charles W. Goddard, ex-Judge of 
the Superior Court, and now Post- 
master ; Judge Symonds, of the 
Superior Court ; George F. Talbot, 
ex-United States District Attorney 
for Maine ; Nathan Webb, now 
holding the same office ; and among 
prominent members of the bar to-day: Joseph Howard, Bion Bradbury, 
Josirl TT D " "^ " T Strout, William L. Putnam, John Rand, 

Nathan Cleaves, M. M. Butler, Charles 
P. Mattocks, and Thomas B. Reed, Jr. 
Of orators and statesmen, native 
and resident, Portland may claim Sar- 
gent S. Prentiss, born here, but who 
won his reputation in the South ; Wil- 
liam Pitt Fessenden, the distinguished 
Senator and Secretary of the Treas- 
ury ; Hon. George Evans, formerly 
United States Senator from this State ; 
Israel Washburn, Jr., whose long ser- 
vice in Congress, and able administra- 
tion as Governor of the State, during 
the early part of the Rebellion, j^lace 
him among the most honored sons of 
Maine ; Hon. George T. Davis, ex- 
member of Congress from Massachu- 
setts, and a gentleman of brilliant con- 
Ex-Governor Israel Washburn, Jr. VCrsatioual l)OWerS. 

Of officers who have achieved distinction in the navy, native here, we 
have Commodore Edward Preble, son of Brigadier Preble, whose name 
stands higli in our annals as the hero of Tripoli; Rear Admiral Alden, 




PORTLASn AND VK'IXITY. 



29 




General Neal Dow. 



who fought at Vera Cruz, New Orleans, and Mobile; and Commodore 
George H. Prebk', wlio has served long and well. 

Among reformers we may claim General Neal Dow, who served in the 
war of the Rebellion, was Mayor of the city in 1851 and 1855, and has won 
a world-wide ilistinction as a zealous 
advocate of temperance, and the i)rin- 
ciple of prohibition, — having twice 
visited England as a laborer in this 
field, where he is now well known 
and esteemed. 

Portland is the birthplace of many 
authors, some of whom have achieved 
a wide fame, and conferred honor on 
the place of their nativity. 

Of poets we may mention first, by 
right of seniority, the veteran John 
Neal, born here August '2b, 1793, of 
a Quaker family, — though with but 
little of the Quaker spirit. Tlis vigor- 
ous poem, "The Battle of Niagara," 
was published as long ago as 1818. In 
1824 we find him in England, writing 
for Blackwood's Magazine, and enjoying the friendship of Jeremy Bentham. 
As poet, novelist, journalist, and contributor to magazines, Mr. Neal has 
been a prolific author, writing in an 
impetuous and uncontrolled style of 
his own, always with independence, 
dash, and audacity ; but, though lack- 
ing concentration, also with much 
strong, good sense, close thought, and 
analysis of character; preserving to m 
ripe old age his vehemence and vigor 
his irascibility, his scorn of everythin 
unmanly, and liis love of fair play. 

Henry W. Longfellow, who needs 
no mention but that of his name, was 
born here, " in an old, square wooden 
house, upon llie edge of the sea," on 
the 27th of February, 1S07. It is un- 
necessary to allude to his poetry, — 
known and admired wherever the 
English language is read or translated, 
— or to speak of his uneventful and prosperous career as a man of letters, 




30 



POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 




who has endeared himself to thousands in foreign lands, as well as in his 
own country, by the felicity and loving charm of his writings. Born of 
a family long prominent here, he has given immortality to the city of his 

birth by his poem entitled, " My 



Lost Youth," in which he describes 

" the beautiful town 

That is seated by the sea." 

Nathaniel P. Willis was born 
here in the same year with Long- 
fellow, January 20, 1807. He had 
ink in his veins, — his grandfather 
and his father, both of whom were 
named Nathaniel Willis, being well 
known publishers ; the former hav- 
ing been an apprentice in the same 
printing-office with Benjamin Frank- 
lin. As a poet, journalist, and letter 
writer, Mr. Willis was distinguished 
for his sprightly and graceful style, 
and his rare choice and constructive 
skill in the use of words. 

Nathaniel Deering, still living 
among us, a well-preserved octogenarian, graduated at Harvard as long 
ago as 1810. He chose the law as his profession, and literature as his 

amusement, but long since abandoned both. 
His chief productions are two five-act trage- 
dies, " Carrabassett,"" and " Bozzaris," which 
have been much admired. His miscellaneous 
poems and tales contain much of the humor 
of "Down-East" life. 

Among other poets, of native birth, we 
may mention William Cutter; Isaac McLel- 
lan ; S. B. Beckett, in whose poem, " Hester," 
there is much fine description of our local 
scenery ; and D. C. Colesworthy, whose moral 
verses have had a wide circulation. 

Among poets resident here at various 
times are Grenville Mellen ; Mrs. E. Oakes 
Smith, author of "The Sinless Child," and 
formerly a prolific contributor to our maga- 
zine literature ; and Mrs. Elizabeth Akers 
^- ^ ^'"'^- Allen, whose poems have had a wide circu- 

lation in book form, and through the periodicals of the day. 



Henry W. Longfellow. 




PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



31 



Among writers of tales and romance we have J. H. Ingrnli:iin ; Charles 
P. Ilsley, whose tales of Indian warfare and frontier life in Maine have 
have been very popular; Rev. Elijah Keilogsj, author of many books for 
boys ; George Payson ; Mrs. Samuel Coleman ; Mrs. Ann S. Stephens, 
the prolific novelist; Mrs. Elizabeth (Payson) Prciitiec ; and Mrs. Clara 
Barnes Martin. 

Bishop Horatio Southgatc has written travels, and Mrs. Margaret 
J. M. Sweat has published an account of a tour in Europe, also ''Ethel's 
Love-Life," a tale, and has contributed articles of much merit to various 
periodicals. 

In general literature William Law Symonds gave promise of mucli 
distinction, had not an early death terminated his career. 

Sarah Payson Willis, sister of the poet, acquired mucii popularity as 
a writer of brief, lively essays, under 
the nam cle phone of "Fanny Fern." 

Professor Edward S. Morse has 
gained distinction as a lecturer and 
nuthor of works on natural history. 

Mrs. Abba Goold Woolson is 
well known as an able lecturer, and 
writer on questions connected with 
woman's rights and dress reform. 

Among residents of Portland dis- 
tinguished as authors we have, in 
theology, Rev. Dr. Edward Payson, 
Rev. Dr. Cyrus Bartol, Rev. Dr. 
Ichabod Nichols, Rev. Dr. W. T. 
Dwight, Rev. Dr. J. W. Chickering, 
Rev. Jason Whitman, Rev. William 
B. Hayden, and Rev. Dr. Thomas 
Hill, ex-President of Harvard Uni- ^'"'- ^^- Edward Payson. 

versity. In science and natural history we may count William W. Sewall, 
Dr. J. W. Mighells, and Dr. Isaac Ray. In history, Henry A. S. Dearborn, 
and lion. William Willis, the historian of Portland, an accomplished gentle- 
man and scholar, who, after a long useful life here, during which he tilled 
many positions of honor and trust, — including that of Mayor of the city, — 
died February 17th, 1870, in the seventy-sixth year of his age. In tiiis de- 
partment we must also include Hon. William Goold, now of Windham, but 
formerly a resident of this city, who has devoted himself to the preservation 
of our local annals with mueh zeal and research. 

In biography we have Rev. Asa Cummings, author of the life of Rev. 
Dr. Payson. In agriculture. Rev. Dr. Samuel Deane, author of " The New 
England Farmer, or Georgical Dictionary," the first work on farming pub- 




32 



POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 



listed in this country, and long a standard authority. In statistics, John A. 
Poor, and Walter Wells, author of " The Water Power of Maine." 

Among journalists we must not omit mention of Benjamin Titcomb and 
Thomas B. Waite, who, on the first of January, 1785, issued the initial num- 
ber of the Falmouth Gazette and Weekly Advertiser, — the first newspaper 
ever printed in the Disti'ict of Maine. Mr, Titcomb was born here July 27, 
1761, served an apprenticeship to the art of printing, and often boasted in 
his old age that he " struck off," with his own hands, the first sheet ever 
printed in Maine. He subsequently became a Baptist preacher, and after a 
ministry of forty years in Brunswick, Me., died in 1848, at the good old age 
of ninety-seven years. Mr. Waite, also a printer, was born in Saugus, 
Mass., in 1762, and came here from Boston in 1784; was long prominent 
here in political affairs, — a man of ardent temperament and independent 

character; active in procuring the 



establishment of post-office and mail 
routes ; an advocate of the building 
of a theatre here, when town meet- 
ings were held on the subject, and 
much feeling was manifested on both 
sides. After a residence in Portland 
of about thirty years, he returned to 
Boston, where he died in 1830. 

In 1803 Nathaniel Willis, father 
of N. P. Willis, the jDoet, commenced 
the publication of the Eastern Argus. 
He was the first editor who was ever 
imjDrisoned in Maine because of the 
freedom with which he uttered his 
sentiments through the press. He 
also issued the first religious news- 
paper ever permanently established 
in this country, Mr. Willis died in 
Boston, in 1870, being ninety years old. In 1826 the Rev. Asa Cummings, 
an able controversial writer, became editor of the Christian Mirror, and 
conducted it until 1855, — a period of twenty-nine years. 

In 1828 appeared the Yankee, which, under the editorship of John 
Neal, had a brief but brilliant existence ; being remarkable among journals 
of that day for its vigor, independence, boldness, and audacity, 

in 1829 Seba Smith started the Courier, — the first daily newspaper in 
this State, — and in its columns first appeared his famous " Jack Downing 
Letters," which are among the most successful adaptations of the Yankee 
dialect to tlie purposes of humorous writing. Mr. Smith was also a poet, 
and a writer of tales and essays for the magazines. 




Hon. William Willis. 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 33 



John :iik1 WiHiaiii E. Edwards became ])roi)rietors of the Portland 
Advertiser in liSiJU, and soon after engaged James Brooks as editor, who 
was one of the first of Washington correspondents, afterwards removed to 
New York, where, together with his brother Erastus, — both natives of 
this city, — he ran a successful career as editor of the New York Exjiress, 
and long represented that city in Congress. 

In May, 1833, Horatio King (since acting Postmaster General), re- 
moved the Jeffersonian from Paris, Oxford county, to tliis city, where it 
was publislicd several years, with a good ilegree of success. 

In 1835 the Daily Argus was started by Ira Berry and Charles liolden. 
Mr. Berry is still living, the oldest active printer among us. Mr. liolden, 
who Avas one of our most successful journalists, and a most useful and 
public-spirited citizen, died in July, 1875, aged 71 years, leaving a com- 
petence to his children, and liberal bequests to our benevolent institutions. 

In 1837 Charles P. Ilsley started the Portland Transcript, which he 
edited for ten years, enriching its columns with many interesting tales 
from his graceful pen. 

D. C. Colesworthy commenced the publication of the Portland Tribune 
in 1841, and continued it for over four years, contributing to its columns 
many tales and poems which attracted much attention. 

About 18-42 Benjamin Kingsbury, Jr., came here to edit the American, 
— a daily and weekly paper, started by a faction of the Democracy in 
opposition to the Argus. Mr. Kingsbury displayed great ability in its 
management, and soon made matters lively among the politicians. The 
sparring that went on between him and Eliphalet Case, editor of the 
Argus, greatly amused the town. His slower and heavier opponent was 
no match for him in wit and sprightliness. Mr. Kingsbury has since filled 
many public offices with faithfulness and ability, among wliich is that of 
Mayor of the city in 1870, '71, and '7'J. 

Xewell A. Foster, who was engaged on the American as ]irinter and 
publisher, at the time of Mr. Kingsbury's connection with it, was long con- 
nected with the press of Portland. In 186*2, in com])any with John T. 
Gilman and Joseph B. Hall, he established the Portland Daily Press. Mr. 
Foster was a man of earnest convictions and indejyendencc of cliaracter. 
Avhose untimely death, a few years since, was deeply lamented. 

Among distinguishe<l men of other ]»rofessions wlio have for a time 
tried their hands at journalism here, are llev. Russell Streeter, Hon. "Wil- 
liam Willis, Isaac Adams, Hon. F. O. J. Smith, ll'iii. William Pitt Fisscn- 
den, Hon. Phinehas Barnes, Hon. James (t. Blaine, John A. Poor, S. B. 
Beckett, Henry Carter, Professor E. P. Weston, Rev. Dr. W. II. .Shailer, 
George GifTord, and Judge Enoch Knight, of the Municipal Court. 

The daily press of this city is now under the able management of John 
M. Adams, of the Argus; H. W. Richardson, of the Advertiser; .and Stan- 



34 POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 

ley T. Pullen, of the Press. The editor longest in continuous service is 
Edward H. Elwell, for over twenty-seven years editor of the Portland 
Transcript; with which paper Samuel T. Pickard has also been connected 
for twenty-three years. 

Among the graduates of the Advertiser office are Charles G. Came, 
the leading writer on the Boston Journal, and Edwin F. Waters, one of 
the publishers of the Boston Advertiser. 

The pioneer artist in Portland was Charles Codman, who came here 
from Massachusetts many years ago, and commenced business as a sign- 
painter. He soon turned his attention to landscape-painting, for which 
he had a true genius, his works displaymg freedom of handling, and 
truth to nature. Many of them are still owned by families in this city, 
and are highly prized. Charles O. Cole was an excellent portrait-painter, 
practising his profession here with success for many years. J. R. Tilton, 
who has gained high distinction as a landscape-painter in Italy, commenced 
his career here as an ornamental j^ainter about 1848. Mrs. Elizabeth Mur- 
ray, (wife of Her Britannic Majesty's Consul, John Henry Murray), a dis- 
tinguished artist in water-colors, whose Avorks are highly prized on both 
sides of the Atlantic, has resided here at times. Charles J. Schumacher, 
a native of Germany, has painted some fine landscapes and street views, 
— chiefly of scenes in his native land. 

Of native artists, the first who attained distinction was Charles E. 
Beckett. Commencing as an amateur he soon displayed precision in draw- 
ing, and skill in composition, and in landscape-painting he achieved some 
success, and was noted for his spirited drawing of horses. J. G. Cloud- 
man has studied abroad, and produced landscapes and figure-pieces, though 
chiefly devoting himself to portraiture, in which he excels. Of all our 
native artists, Harry B. Brown has shown the truest eye for color, and 
achieved the greatest success as a landscape and marine painter. Com- 
mencing as a sign and banner painter, his natural genius soon worked its 
way into its own field, and he has attained a recognized position among 
the best artists in the land. His sea-and-shore scenes are distinctive in 
their character, remarkable for the free dash of the Avaves and the solidity 
of the cliffs, while in atmospheric effects he excels. John B. Hudson, Jr., 
(whose drawings, illustrating this work, speak for themselves), has pro- 
duced some close studies of nature. Frederick Kimball has reproduced 
our scenery with faithfulness and poetic feeling ; and Miss Maria Beckett 
has 4one good and promising work. 

Of sculptors, Paul Akers and his brother Charles were long resident 
here. Franklin Simmons, who has attained great success at Rome, and 
whose works speak for him in the National Capitol, executed some of his 
earlier busts in this city. 

Of the business men whose energy, enterprise, and capital have done 



POliTLAMi A.\U I'lUMTi: 



35 



nuK'h to promote tlio prosperity of the city, and gain for themselves local 
intluence and position, a long list might be given. Our merchants, from the 
earliest times, have shown a commendable spirit of enlirpri^e, and of late 
years, through associated action in the Hoard of Trade, have by their en- 
couragement of new packet, steamboat, ami railroad lines, done much to 
open distant markets to the trade of the city. Other capitalists and real- 
estate owners have contributed largely to the growth of the city, in the 
establishment of manufactures, and the improvement of vacant lands. 

Nathaniel Deering was the first who opened a store after the destruc- 
tion of the town in 1775, in which he laid the foundation of a large proj^erty 
now owned by the Deering and Preble heirs, — both family names being as 
"familiar in our mouths as household words." Joseph IT. Tngraham, of 
the same period, improved tlie 
waste places by building blocks 
of stores, and became for a time 
one of our largest land-holders. 
It is to him our city is indebted 
for the noble avenue of State 
street, as also for one of our best- 
preserved mansions of the olden 
time, situated near its foot. 

Captain John Mussey was 
among those who first erected 
stores on Middle street, — on a 
site since repeatedly swept by 
fire, but always rebuilt upon by 
his son, John Mussey, Esq. 
This gentleman, formerly Clerk 
of the United States Courts for 
many years, still walks our 
streets, a hale and handsome oc- 
togenarian, a venerable and most 
respected citizen, noted for his 
generous gifts to our churches *^°' ' b Brown. 

and charities as well as for his vigorous old age. 

The financial disasters which followed the embargo of 1S()7 swept 
away the fortunes of many of our leading merchants and real-estate own- 
ers; but among those who survived the storm were Matthew Cobb, Asa 
Clapp, William Chadwick, Albert Xcwhall, Joseph Cross, Kalph Cr^ss, 
Arthur McLellan, James Deering, rxiijaniin Willis, Samuel Trask, and 
Heuben Morton, — all men who have left their mark upon our city. 
Matthew Cobb's house still remains, at the corner of High street and 
Congress Square, to remind old citizens of the style and hospitality kept 




36 



POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 



up there in the days of its first proprietor. Asa Clapp is still remembei'ed 
as our leading merchant in the West India trade, long active in affairs here. 
His two sons, Charles Q. Clapp, Esq., now dead, and Hon. A. W. H. Clapp, 
formerly Representative in Congress from this District, and still residing 
in the old family mansion, at the corner of Congress and Elm streets, have 
been prominent citizens, and kept up the influence of the Clapp name. The 
Chad wicks and McLellans were long among our most active merchants and 
ship-owners. James Deering, whose name meets us on block, and street, 
and bridge, is remembered as one of our largest real-estate owners, — a 
man of great activity and business energy to a late period in life. 

At a later day Jacob Knight ran a long career of prosperity and in- 
fluence as a leading merchant, ending, as such careers so often do, in 

disaster. His sons did not uphold 
^-sS-S^^^^^^t the family name and influence, 

and nearly all recollection of him 
has passed away. At a still later 
time another citizen, in a different 
department of business, was for 
a brief period the man of mark 
among us : the Hon. John M. 
Wood, a builder of railroads, a 
projector of large improvements 
here, a member of Congress from 
this District for two terms; run- 
ning a rapid career of prosperity, 
only to end in embarrassment and 
untimely death. Quite different 
has been the progress of one of 
his successors in Congress from 
this District, — the Hon. John 
Lynch ; beginning life as a poor 
boy, rising by his own unaided 
efforts to a prominent position 
among our merchants, endorsed 
by them as our Rei)resentative in Congress for eight years, a useful leg- 
islator and successful business man. 

The leading business man and real-estate owner among us to-day is 
the Hon. John B. Brown, who came here many years ago and commenced 
business in the retail grocery line, and by his energy and large foresight 
became a leading merchant and manufacturer; doing much for the im- 
provement of the city, active in all enterprises for the extension of its 
trade, representing its interests in the Legislature, and taking an active 
part in the establishment of the Maine General Hospital, and other be- 
nevolent institutions. 




Hon. William W. Thomas. 



roRTLAxn AX I) virixiTY. 37 

Hon. William W. Thomas, another leading capitalist and real-estate 
owner, is a native citizen, being a direct descendent, in the seventh gen- 
eration, of George Clceves, our first settler; of a family prominent here 
througli the whole history of the city; including in his ancestry the Itcv. 
George burroughs, the first minister in Falmouth, and John Proctor, — 
l)oth of whom the pious i)eoi)le of Salem hanged for witchcraft. Mr. 
Thomas has been engaged in business in this city for over half a cen- 
tury; is the oldest bank president in the city, having presided over the 
affairs of the Canal Bank for nearly thirty years; was Mayor of Port- 
land in 1861 and 1S(]2, and has represented our city in the Legislature, 
and our county in the State Senate. To Mr. Thomas is the city indebted 
for many of the most substantial business edifices which adorn our principal 
streets. His son, lion. William W. Thomas, Jr., has been twice Speaker 
of the Maine House of Representatives, and, as Commissioner of Emigra- 
tion, founded the flourishing colony of New Sweden in the heart of our 
northern forests. 

Other merchants and capitalists, to whom the city is indebted for 
many improvements and business enterprises, are St. John Smith ; T. C. 
Hersey; Messrs. Andrew and Samuel E. Spring, largely engaged in the 
South American trade, and conspicuous for benevolence and ])ublic si)irit; 
George W. Woodman, President of the Board of Trade ; Horatio X. Jose ; 
H. J. Libby ; George S. Hunt, the successful manager of two of our ex- 
tensive corporations, and a large owner in our shi]i]iing interests ; Francis 
Macdonald, to whom is due the inception and formation of the Portland 
Kerosene Oil Company, the Rolling Mills, and the Casco Iron Company; 
Jacob S. Winslow, Benjamin Webster, and Russell Lewis, three of our 
heaviest shii^owners ; Weston F. Milliken, the head of one of our largest 
wholesale houses, and a promoter of steam navigation with the eastern part 
of the State ; also Woodbury S. Dana, Henry Fox, Hon. Charles H. Has- 
kell, Chai-Ies E. Jose, and many others whom our citizens will readily 
call to mind. 

This list is not regarded as exhaustive in any department. I have 
spared the modesty of many of the living, and perhaps forgotten many of 
the dead, who deserve to be remembered. Defective as it may be, how- 
ever, it will serve to refresh the memories of those who have grown old 
among us, and to incite the young to emulate the examples of industry, 
enterprise, and probity which it j)re8ents. 



38 PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



WALKS ABOUT TOWN. 



FROM MARKET SQUARE TO THE EASTERN PROMENADE. 

Having now taken a hurried general survey of our city and its sur- 
roundings, let us indulge in a stroll or two about town for a more leisurely 
and extended view of its jDublic buildings, private residences, and points of 
historic interest. 

If the visitor is stopping at the Preble, or the United States, he finds 
himself, on stepjiing out-doors, in Market Square ; if at the Falmouth, St. 
Julian, or Adams House, a short walk up Middle street will bring him to 
the same point; if at the City Hotel he has but to walk straight down Con- 
gress street to reach it. Here he finds himself in the heart of the city. 
Market Square, in a small way, is to Portland what the Forum was to the 
ancient Roman cities : a center of business, the scene of popular gather- 
ings, surrounded with stores, hotels, public halls, and places of amusement. 
Many a jDopular harangue has been listened to here in times of political 
excitement, and more than one mob has made riot around its central 
building. 

Situated on the ridge of the peninsula, about midway of its length, 
the Square has a central j^osition, and affords easy access to all parts of 
the city. Congress street runs straight through it on the north side; 
Federal and Middle streets enter it on the east, with a "heater" between 
them ; Center street, on the south, offers a direct approach to the harbor, 
and the stations of the Eastern, Boston and Maine, Maine Central, and 
Portland and Ogdensburg Railroads ; while on the north Preble street 
opens a view of Back Cove and the country beyond, as well as an ap- 
proach to the station of the Portland and Rochester Railroad. The horse 
cars start here for Deering, and also for the east and west ends of the city. 

On the eastern side of the Square the space between Federal and Con- 
gress streets is occupied by the United States Hotel, the oldest of our pub- 
lic houses, a first-class establishment, recently enlarged, and well conducted. 
On the north are Clapp's Block and Deering's Block, built of brick, and 
devoted to stores and offices. In the latter block, at the corner of Preble 
street, is Music Hall, fitted up for theatrical entertainments. On the oppo- 
site corner is the Preble House, enlarged from the ancient mansion of 
Commodore Preble, of naval fame, and now known as one of our best 
hotels. Opposite, at the corner of Center street, is Lancaster Hall, used 
principally for dances, and under it is the horse car station. 



rairiLA \l> AMI VK IMIY 



89 




40 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



The building standing nearly in the center of the Square deserves 
a paragraph by itself. This is Military Hall, the ancient town-hall and 
market-house, built somewhere about 1825. It is built of brick, and the 
exterior was originally so plain that the late Charles Q. Clapp, Esq., a 
gentleman of much architectural taste, exerted himself to have the front 
finished with a pediment in the Ionic style, which gives the building a 
somewhat noble appearance as approached down Congress street. Here 
the town-meetings were held before a city charter was obtained ; here the 
City Government afterwards had its rooms; here the military companies 
had, as now, their armories ; and here excited political meetings have been 
held, and stirring scenes enacted. It was at one time the only hall in the 
city attainable for concerts and lectures, as well as public meetings of all 




United States Hotel. 



sorts. Here Garrison has thundered his anathemas against slavery, and 
here the citizens gathered to denounce the cowardly assault on Senator 
Sumner. Here Stephen S. Foster was assaulted by a brutal pro-slavery 
mob, intent on tarring and feathering him, from whom he escaped, not 
without i^ersonal damage, to the residence of Nathan Winslow near by; 
and here, under the mayoralty of Neal Dow, John Robbins was shot by 
the military, while acting with an anti-liquor law mob, in an endeavor to 
destroy the liquors belonging to the city, stored in the basement of the 
building. Here we have listened to the eloquence of Sumner and Fessen- 
den, and Avitnessed the disru])tion of old ])olitical parties and the formation 
of new ones. The building is now chiefly used by our military companies. 
The question of removing it to make room for a soldiers' monument, or 
a fountain, — thus enlarging and enriching the S([uai-e, — has been often 
mooted ; but it still holds its ground, and seems likely to do so for years 



rOltTLAXD ASD VKJIXITY. 



41 



to come. On holidays tliis Square is the center of movement and display, 
and often of an evening, wlien crowds gatiier around the jteddlers and 
mounteljanks wlio lu-re take their stands and display their wares under the 
light of ttaming torches, when the sidewalks are thronged with people out 
for a walk, and the places of amusement are in full blast, the scene pre- 
sented, as shown in our engraving, is a ])ictures(iue and animated one. 

Making the Square our point of departure, let us turn toward the 
east end and stroll down 
Congress street to Mun- 
joy's Hill. This portion 
of the city was the first 
settled, and before the 
great fire of 186G con- 
tained the oldest houses, 
but is now rebuilt in 
modern style. 

The first building 
that attracts our atten- 
tion as we leave the 
Square is the residence 
of Hon. A. TV. 11. Clap]., 
ex-member of Congress; 
an old family mansion, 
embowered in the foli- 
age of stately trees, with 
its extensive garden in 
the rear, — a relic of the 
days of large city es- 
tates, which still holds 
its own almost in the 
center of business. 

Next to this stood 
for one hundred and ten 
years the residence of 
Rev. Samuel Deane, the second pastor of the First Parish Church. In 
1765 he bought here a three-acre lot, extending from Congress street to 
Back Cove, and built on it a two-story hipped-roof house; afterwards 
greatly altered and modernized, and long the residence of the late 
Samuel Chadwick, Esq. Tt was one of the stateliest of our old-time 
mansions, but this year (1^76) gives way before tlu' march of im]>rove- 
ment, and a liandsome block f»f brick stores is to occupy its siti-. In this 
building the Odd Fellows are to have their halls, elegajitly fitte<l up. 
.The rooms of the Mercantile Library Association will also be in this block. 




First Parish (Unitarian) Church. 



42 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



This institution was established in 1851, and now has a library of about 
eight thousand volumes, from which any citizen can take out books by pay- 
ing two dollars per annum. Besides affording its members the benefits of 
books and discussions, the Association has contributed largely to the enter- 
tainment and instruction of the public by its twenty-six courses of popular 
lectures. 

This brings us to the First Parish Church, standing in its spacious lot, 
and approached by a wide flight of granite steps. It was built in 1825, on 
the site of the old church which had stood there since 1740, and is con- 
structed of undressed granite ; having a floor eighty-two feet long by sixty- 
two feet wide, and 138 j^ews. Unlike too many of our churches there is 

no sham about this build- 
ing; it does not present a 
front of one material, with 
the sides and rear wall of 
another, but is solid granite 
throughout, a good speci- 
men of honest architectura- 
work, complete on all sides. 
The church worshipping 
here (Unitarian in faith) is 
remarkable for its long pas- 
torates, there having been 
but four pastors from 1727 
to 1864, — a period of one 
hundred and thirty-seven 
years, during which there 
was no vacancy in the pas- 
toral office. Rev. Thomas 
Smitli, the first pastor, la- 
bored here in the ministry 
sixty-seven years; his colleague. Rev. Samuel Deane, served fifty years; his 
colleague and successor. Rev. Ichabod Nichols, officiated alone over forty 
years, and was succeeded by Rev. Horatio Stebbins, who resigned in 1864. 
The present pastor is the learned ex-president of Harvard College, the Rev. 
Dr. Thomas Hill. 

In the enclosure, on the west side of the church, we see a marble monu- 
ment, erected "to Rev. Ichabod Nichols, third pastor of the First Parish, 
in grateful and affectionate memory of a pastorate of fifty years." In a 
niche of the monument is a sculptured figure of St. John the Evangelist, 
from the chisel of the late Paul Akers. 

In the rear of the church we catch a glim])se of the High School build- 
ing, a large and well-proportioned brick structure, fronting on Cumberland 




Chestnut Street M. E. Church. 



I'Oirn.AM) AM) VlciSITY. 



43 



street. The school affords instruction to both boys and girls, and is under 
the charge of u Principal with a large corps of assistant teachers. 

Passing on we come to the junction of Chestnut street, ghmciiig 
(low u wliicli wc see, on the right, tlu' Chestnut Street (Methodist Ejjisco- 
I>al) Church, an elegant hric-k cditice, with two slender spires, in whidi wor- 
ships the parent Methodist Society of the city, from which offshoots have 
been planted in Pine street, and on Munjoy's llill. 

On the opposite side of Congress street, in the ornate Fluent's Block, 
is the Portland Museum, a neat little theatre, where the drama is so well 
presented that 
it has become a 
favorite place 
of amusement 
with our citi- 
zens. 

Theatrical 
entertainments 
never greatly 
flourished in 
Portland. They 
were wholly 
unknown here 
before the Re- 
volution. The 
first perform- 
ance here was 
given October 
7th, 1794, by a 
strolling com- 
pany from Bos- 
ton. They came 
agnin at inter- 
vals, but wlien Portland Museum. 

in 1S06 it wns proposed to build a theatre the virtuous citizens took alarm, 
called a town-meeting, and after an animated discussion, in which the lead- 
ing citizens took part, succeeded in defeating the i)roject by a jirohibitory 
law with heavy penalties. The poor players diil not again make tlu'ir ap- 
pearance until 1H20, when they set u]i their scenery in Unioji Tl.ill. Public 
opinion hnd by tliis time so far changed that they were enabled to evade 
the law of ISUG. In 1S30 a neat and convenient theatre wms erected on 
Free street, at an expense of abotit $10,(100; Init still the drain:i langui^lied, 
and in 1^.30 the buildinir w:is sold to the Second Baptist Society, ami now 
forms one of our most substantial churciies. About 1848 a theatre was 




44 PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 

built on Union street, under the convenient veil of a museum, and Joseph 
Proctor and old Joe Cowell there gave their vigorous and amusing perform- 
ances. That building was some years after destroyed by fire. A few years 
since Deering Hall was fitted up as a theatre, under the name of Music 
Hall, and occasional performances took place there. In 1874 Fluent Hall 
was remodeled into a temple of the drama, and has since been occupied 
by i^ermanent stock companies, and received a liberal patronage. 

This brings us to the City Government Building, which stands on the 
north side of Congress, directly opposite the head of Exchange street. It 
is an imposing structure, of good, architectural proportions, having a front- 
age of one hundi-ed and fifty feet, a length of two hundred and twenty-one 
feet, with corner towers seventy-five feet high, and a central dome swelling 
up to a height of one hundred and sixty feet. The front is built of the 
light-colored Nova Scotia Albert-stone ; the side and rear walls of pressed 
brick, with Albert-stone trimmings. Its cost was 1650,000, and it contains 
eighty rooms. Occupying the site of the old court-house and jail, the 
county, as well as the city government, has its ofiices here. In the base- 
ment, with entrances on the Myrtle street side, are the Police Station and 
Municipal Court-room. The right wing, on the first floor, is occupied by 
the county ofiices ; with the Superior Court-room above. The left wing, 
first floor, is devoted to the city ofiices. 

The Portland Institute and Public Library has rooms on the northwest 
corner, in the rear. This institution, managed by an association formed 
in 1867, has for its object the maintenance of a public library and institute 
of natural history, science, and art; to be made free to all as soon as the 
condition of its funds will warrant. At present it has a library of eighteen 
thousand volumes, from which any citizen can take books by paying two 
dollars per annum. The average monthly issue of books is about three 
thousand volumes. A reading-room is furnished, where the use of books 
is free to all comers. This room is also the germ of an art gallery, con- 
taining photographic copies of "The Transfiguration," by Raphael, in the 
Vatican; of "The Last Judgment," by Michael Angelo, in the Sistine 
Chapel; busts and portraits of distinguished citizens, and paintings by our 
native artists. The rooms are open to all from 10 A. M. to 1 P. M,, and 
from 2 to 6 and 7 to 9 P. M., in summer, and 2 to 5 and 7 to 9 in winter. 

On the second floor, reached by a wide staircase of iron, is the City 
Hall, a noble apartment, one hundred and thirteen feet long, eighty feet 
wide, and thirty-five feet high. It is handsomely finished, has a gallery on 
three sides, and will contain three thousand people, though the seating ca- 
pacity is about twenty-five hundred. Here are given grand concerts, and 
courses of lectures, and great popular gatherings and receptions of distin- 
guished persons are held. Connected with it are Reception and Rossini 
Halls, beside smaller rooms ; the whole making a grand suite of apartments. 



I'UUTLAM) AM> VK.IMTY' 



45 



On the third floor are tl.e rooms of the Portland Society of Natural 
History, an association or-ani/cd in 1S43, whose collections have been twice 
destroyed bv lire. It has now, however, valuable cabinets, illustrating the 
naiural hist'orv of our own State, and other lands. It l^as speein.e,>s of 
nearly all our native plants, collected by its president. Dr. W dliam Wood; 
a eood collection of native birds, and is rich in specimens of marine zoology, 
collected by the curator, Mr. Charles B. Fuller, who keeps up a system of 
exchanges with 
naturalists all 
over the coun- 
try and in Eu- 
rope. Here are 

also collected 
many curiosi- 
ties from all 

parts of the 

world. 

The rooms 

are open to the 

public Tuesday 

and Saturday, 

from 2 to ;") P. 

M. Mr. Fuller 

may be found 

at other times 

in his room, 

adjoining the 

cabinet -room. 

where he is al- 
ways glad to 

receive visits 
from those in- 
terested in nat 




City Hall. 



ural history. Near the entrance to the cabinet-room is the door leading 
"he top of the dome, which is usually kept locked. The key can be 
obtained at any time of the janitor, and a climb to the "lantern is we 
rewarded by the magnificent view of the city beneath, the harbo, the > 
with its islands, and the ocean beyond, on the south; and the wide extent 
of country, bounded by mountains, on the north. 

Passing on a short distance we come next to the Payson Memm.a 
Church, whose beautiful lancet spire, rising to a height ot one hundred 
and seventy-five feet, attracts the eye by its gra<etu proportions. This 
eluuvh, built of brick, with a heavy front of Hallowell granite, or gneiss. 



46 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



is seventy-three feet wide by ninety long, and has two projecting towers. 
With its two arcades of fi^-e arches the facade is imposing and beautiful. 
The society worshipping bere is the old Second Parish (Congregational) 
Church, an offshoot of the First Parish in 1787, to which administered 
the Rev. Edward Payson for twenty years, — from 1807 to his untimely 
death in 1827, at the age of forty-seven years. After the old meeting- 
house was destroyed by the fire of 1866 it was resolved that the new 
church, built on a new site, should bear the name of the lamented pastor, 

the most eloquent preacher 
of his day. The present pas- 
tor, Rev. Dr. John J. Carru- 
thers, a native of Scotland, 
was installed August 9, 1846, 
and now, after a service of 
thirty years, — the longest 
settled minister in the city, 
-^is still, in the seventy- 
sixth year of his age, an able 
and vigorous preacher of a 
stern and uncompromising 
faith. 

A few steps farther will 
bring us to the First Baptist 
Church, with its handsome 
Norman-gothic front of hewn 
Connecticut freestone, trim- 
med with olive freestone, 
elaborately carved and fin- 
ished about the windows, 
doors, and belt-courses. The 
style is massive and impos- 
^_^ ,.^ ^ _^_ ing, though the church sets 

— -=.^=^===^=-=- low upon the sidewalk. 

Payson Memorial (Congregational) Church. ^his, tOO, is a neW CrCC- 

tion, springing out of the ashes of the great fire of 1866. The society 
worshipping here was organized in 1801, and so restricted was freedom 
of religious opinion at that time, that as late as 1820 an Act of the Leg- 
islature was necessary to enable persons to leave any other society and join 
the P'irst Baptist Society. The present pastor of the church. Rev. William 
H. Shailer, D. D., has had a successful pastoi-ate of twenty-two years, — 
having been installed March 19, 1854. 

We are now opposite Lincoln Park, —which is rather a public square, 
— bounded by Congress, Franklin, Federal, and Pearl streets, and having 




PORTLAND AM) VI CI. MTV. 



47 




an area of little less than two and a half acres. It has a central fountain, 
which sends up its cooling jets on summer days, its greensward, its seats 
for loungers, its concrete 
walks, and its outlines of 
trees, which, with the aid of 
time, will afford both shade 
and beauty. Evening stroll- 
ers find it a pleasant resort, 
and children delight to sail 
their boats in the great basin 
of the fountain. This breath- 
ing place was ajipropriated 
from the thickly-settled por- 
tion of the city swept over 
by the fire of 186G. Stand- 
ing in its center, and sweeji- 
ing around on all sides, the 
eye falls on no structure 
that stood prior to that year. 
The imposing City Govern- 
ment Building, the handsome ^"^^ Baptist church, 
churches just described, the Cathedral and Bishop's residence, the towering 
North School-House, the elegant private residences, — all to be seen from 
this point, — have sprung out of the ashes of the old city within the past 
ten years. 

We have now reached the corner of Franklin street, which runs 
straight across the city, and this is the only point, Avhcre, standing in the 
street, you can see, in a straight line, on one hand the waters of the har- 
bor, and on the other those of Back Cove. Here, too, we come upon the 
palatial residence of the Roman Catholic Bishop of the diocese of Maine 
and Xew Hampshire, — a brick edifice, in a pointed style of arcliitecture ; 
in the rear of which, with connecting chajtel between, stands the Cathedral 
of the Immaculate Concept if)n, fronting on Cuml)erland street. This is the 
largest and most costly church in Maine. It is one hundred and ninety- 
six by one hundred feet on the ground, and seventy feet in height. The 
slated spire — Avhich is simply hideous, lapping over the tower like an e.\- 
tinguisher on a candle, — rises to a height of two hundred and thirty-six 
feet, — being thus sixteen feet higher than Bunker Hill Monument. Out- 
wardly, the building is not so attractive in material as in form, being built 
of bricks considerably mortar-stained; but its imposing bidk, in connection 
with its chapel, (which is itself a good-sized churcli, joined to it as an L, 
and opening into it near the grand altar), and the Bishoji's Palace, — unicjue 
in architecture, and of great size, — form, together, the most marked feature 



48 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



in the architecture of our city. As to the interior of the Cathedral, in sym- 
metry of proi^ortions and in elegance of decoration, it is surpassed by few 
churches in the country. The lofty walls and graceful arches are covered 
with a wealth of harmonious colors, while the stained windows, rich with 
figures and emblems ; the elaborately ornate altar ; the great organ in the 
music-gallery, and the brilliant circular window behind it; the shrine of 
the Virgin, with its arches and crowns of light on festal occasions, form, 
together, an imposing and beautiful spectacle. The first Roman Catholic 




Lincoln Park. 



Church was formed here in 1822. In 1828 St. Dominic's Church (since 
much enlarged) was built on State street. The diocese of Portland, in- 
cluding the States of Maine and New Hampshire, was formed in 1855, 
and the Right Rev. David Bacon, D. D., was appointed Bishop. By this 
time St. Dominic's had become too strait to accommodate the rapidly in- 
creasing numbers of Catholics in Portland, and in 1857 the Cathedral of the 
Immaculate Conception was projected, and completed in 1869, being dedi- 
cated in September of that year with imposing ceremonies. Bishop Bacon 



IH)RTLASI> AM) VKIMTY 



49 




50 POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 

died, deeply lamented, in the year 1875, and the diocese is now in charge 
of Bishop Healey. 

We are now just oj^posite the head of Harai^shire street, on the corner 
of which, in the days before the Revolution, stood the fashionable tavern 
of the town, kept by Widow Alice Greele. It was but a low, one-storied 
structure, but was a famous jilace of resort for clubs and social parties. 
Here the lawyers, traveling on circuit, were entertained; here courts sat, 
and conventions were held ; and here the wags of the town resorted, and 
many a mug of "flip" was drank, and many a good joke cracked, in the 
days succeeding, as well as previous to, the Revolution, — for Widow 
Greele saved her house when Mowatt burned the town, by remaining in 
it and extinguishing the flames. When all around was burning, and cannon 
balls were hurtling through the air, she stood by her house and saved it 
from destruction. It was removed to Washington street about 1846. 

Strolling on, a few steps farther bring us to Locust street, and the 
little picturesque church of St. Paul's, built of our native slate-rock. This 
church, built after the fire of 1866 had driven St. Stephen's to the west 
end, took the name of an earlier Episcopal organization here, and bears on 
its walls the dates 1763-1868. It suffered a sad loss in the untimely and 
lamentable death of its first rector, Rev. N. W. T. Root, who fell a vic- 
tim to malignant small-pox. 

Glancing down Locust street we see a plain structure, on the right, 
known as the Allen Mission Chapel, a Methodist institution, whose motto 
is "feed the hungry — clothe the naked," and which, under the manage- 
ment of Captain Cyrus Sturdivant, has become one of the headquarters of 
the temperance reform, and is doing a great and good work among the 
poor and the victims of appetite. 

A short walk now brings us to the head of India street, on the vacant 
lot opposite which stood the house of Rev. Thomas Smith, burned in the 
destruction of the town by Mowatt, in 1775. It commanded a fine view, 
down India street, of the harbor and the Cape, with the ocean beyond. 
The neighboring Smith street, running northerly to Cumberland street, 
perpetuates the name of the good old Parson. 

At the corner of Congress and India streets, where formerly the 
Thomas mansion stood, now rises the tall spire of the Second Universal- 
ist Church, a substantial brick structure, with massive tower. This society, 
formed after the removal of the First Universalist Society to their new 
church in Congress Square, in 1865, increased in strength and numbers 
under the charge of Rev. George W. Bicknell. 

Adjoining this church, on the east, stands the North School-House, on 
the spot where, in the old grammar-school. Master Whitmore flogged the 
boys for mahy a year. It is a huge, four-storied structure, of brick, con- 
taining a congeries of primary and grammar-schools, comprising twenty-six 
teachers and twelve hundred scholars, all under one Principal. 



POBTL^LSn AND VICINITY. 51 

The school-house looks down upon the Eastern Cemetery, — the oldest 
graveyard in Portland. Yov two hundred years a portion of it was the only 
common burial-place in the territory now included in the limits of the city. 
Here the rude forefathers of the hamlet sleep ; here, probably, George 
Cleeves, our first settler, was buried ; and here, in later times, the early 
families, whose names are still familiar among us, found a last resting-place. 

Originally quite small, the cemetery has V)een enlarged until it contains 
about six acres, thickly crowded with graves. The original burying-place 
was in the southwest corner, where stood a tall pine tree, long a landmark 
for the weather-tossed mariners, and under whose protecting branches the 
dead clustered thickest. It is an elevated site, looking down upon the city 
and the sea. Here may still be seen the old-fashioned, heavy gravestones 
of slate, ornamented with winged heads or skulls, and funereal urns, over 
which droop weeping willows. They bear long inscriptions, — now half 
obliterated, — setting forth the virtues of the departed. The oldest stone 
we have been able to find is that of Mrs. Mary Green, who died May 23, 
1717. In this corner are found the tomb of Parson Smith and his many 
wives and sons, — restored by the First Parish Church, in 1846; and the 
quaint old red-sandstone monument of Sheriff Tyng, of the revolutionary 
era. On the opposite side of the yard, towards Mountfort street, are the 
monuments erected to the memory of the naval heroes, — William Bur- 
roughs, of the U. S. Brig Enterprise, and Samuel Blythe, of His Majesty's 
Brig Boxer, — who fought and died together, off this coast, on the 5th of 
September, 1813, and were buried here, Avith imposing and impressive cere- 
monies, on the 8th of September. Beside them lies Lieutenant Kervin 
Waters, of the Enterprise, mortally wounded in the same action, of which 
Longfellow sings: 

" I remember the sea-light far away, 
How it thuuderecl o'er the tide! 
Aud the dead captains, as they lay 
In their graves o'erlookiiig the tranquil bay, 
Wlierc they in battle died." 

The navy is well represented here. Commodore Preble had his white 
marble monument; and here also is commemorated the death of the gallant 
Lieutenant Henry Wadsworth, (uncle of the poet Longfellow, and for whom 
he was named), who fell before Tripoli, in 1804. The Rev. Dr. Edward 
Payson also was buried here ; and an ornamental shaft of white marble 
marks the resting-j)lacc of the Rev. Mr. Reese, of the Universalist Church. 
Most of the old monuments are box-like structures of brick or granite, or 
tables supported on four pillars. The grass grows rankly over the crowded 
graves; the elms and p()i)lars, which have sprung uj) at their own sweet 
will, cast here and there a shade ; and year by year the gravestones settle 
aud grow more and mon- awry. 



62 



rOIlTLAND AND VICINITY. 



Passing out of the cemetery, and continuing our way along Congress 
street, we find ourselves at the foot of Munjoy's Hill, so called from 
George Munjoy, an early settler, who built his residence on the hill as 
early as 1661. A sightly elevation, rising to a height of one hundred and 
sixty-six feet above the sea, and terminating the j^eninsula on which the 
city is built, "The Hill," as it is popularly called, has been the scene of 
stirring events in our history. It was here, in 1690, that Lieutenant Thad- 
deus Clark, witli tliivteeu men, was shot by FiKliaus in ambush, while recon- 




Observatory, and Congress Street M. E. Church. 

noitering, — the hill being then covered with woods; here, in 1717, in a 
spacious tent, Lieutenant Governor Dummer made a treaty with the 
Indians, who came "with French colors and made a great show," — a 
treaty which ensured peace for many years ; here, in 1775, Colonel Thomp- 
son, of BrunsAvick, encamped witli his men in a thick grove of pines, and 
seized Captain Mowatt as he was walking on the hill, in revenge for 
which the Captain afterwards burned the town; here, in 1808, took place 
the third and last execution for murder which ever occurred in this city, 
Joseph Drew being hanged, in the presence of a large concourse of 
people, for fatally striking Deputy Sheriff Parker while in the discharge 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 53 

of his duty; :ui(l here, too, on the slope Ave arc now ascending, arose, after 
the great tire of 18G6, the unique viUage of tents which gave temporary 
shelter to a large j)ortion of the liouseless population of the city. This area 
lying on our right, and immediately below the Observatory, — now covered 
with an unsightly huddle of ciieaj) tenement-houses, — was once the l)lay- 
ground of the city; the scene of "General Musters" and Fourth of July 
celebrations, where holiday soldiers }»araded, and tents were pitched, and 
booths dispensed beer and gingerbread to hungry crowds, who found amuse- 
ment in peep-shows and flying-horses, and where boys — now grown gray- 
headed men — listened with open mouths to the revolutionary songs of 
Johnny Avery. 

It was a })loasant spot, high and green, looking down upon the city 
and the harbor, and commanding a wide and beautiful view. Cut down 
for the sake of its gravel, this part of the hill has been degraded in more 
senses than one. 

At the Observatory we strike the old sod again. This red-shingled 
tower is eighty-two feet high, and was built in 1^<U7, for the purpose of 
signalizing shipping approaching the harbor. In tlie three-quarters of a 
century which have elapsed since its erection, many an eye has been 
gladdened by the tiag thrown out on one of its three flag-staffs, indicat- 
ing the approach of some long-absent ship; and many a storm-tossed ves- 
sel has been saved from wreck by the succor sent out through timely 
intelligence from this watch-tower, where the sailor's good genius sits up 
aloft and sweeps the horizon with his glass. Here, for a small fee, the 
visitor may take a peep through the telescope which swings from the 
ceiling of the look-out, and observe the ships far out at sea. This is the 
best place in the city to obtain a good view of the surnmiiding scenery. 
Towards the northeast lies Casco Bay, dotted with many beautiful islands. 
Looking eastward, only four miles distant, the broad Atlantic sweeps with 
its never-ceasing swell ; and a southwesterly view takes in the harbor with 
its shipping, and the city extending along its narrow ])cninsula. North- 
westerly, Mount Washington may be distinctly seen, towering al)ovc the 
distant ranges of mountains. 

Adjoining the Observatory stands the Congress street (Methodist Epis- 
copal) Church, erected in 18G8. It is a beautiful temj)le, both as to its ex- 
terior and interior. Its location is very sightly, being upon the highest part 
of Munjoy. The lofty and graceful spire is a conspicuous object as seen 
from the harbor and fioni the sea. Its summit is the highest object in 
the city. 

Munjoy has otiicr (liurclics : the St. Lawi'crice Street (Congregational) 
Church, erected in IS;")?, of which the llev. ]Mr. Wright is now tlie pastor; 
and two churches for colored people, — who have always had a proclivity 
for Munjoy's Hill, — the Abyssinian, (Congregational), and tlie Mountfort 
Street African (^ftthodist Episcojial) Chunh. 



54 FOE TL AND AND VICINITY. 

If now we turn to the left, through North street, — which runs north- 
erly along the ridge of the hill, — we obtain a striking view, across the 
waters of Back Cove, of the city, with its many church-spires, extending 
to the bluff on Bramhall's Hill, where the Maine General Hospital stands 
out conspicuously. The city here, owing to the curve made by Mun joy's 
Hill, seems like a bent bow enclosing the waters of Back Cove, and we are 
looking across from one end to the other. From this point, too, we com- 
mand the opposite shores of Deering, diversified with groves and villages. 

Returning, and continuing along Congress street, we descend the east- 
ern slope of the hill, through jDasture-land, until we come to the Eastern 
Promenade, — a wide avenue encircling the hill, and commanding fine views 
of the bay. On the left we have the ship-building village of East Deering, 
with the Marine Hosi^ital at Martin's Point, and Falmouth Foreside trend- 
ing away in the distance. On the right. Fort Gorges rises solidly from its 
wave-washed ledge, with Peaks' Island beyond, and outside of that the 
broad blue ocean. In the foreground lies Mackay's Island, (now the jDrop- 
erty of the Messrs. Gushing, the proprietors of Cushing's Island), and far- 
ther down the bay appear the Hog, or Diamond Islands, Chebeague, and 
the multitude of those which cluster thickest at its eastern end, and en- 
close it from the sea. 

FKOM MAEKET SQUARE TO THE WESTERN PROMENADE. 

Again making Market Square our point of departure, let us now turn 
westward, and leisurely stroll up Congress street. From this point to Con- 
gress Square — nearly half a mile — there is a gradual rise ; the street is of 
good width, contains some fine business blocks, and is the scene of much 
of the retail trafiic of the city, of a miscellaneous character. Being the main 
avenue down town, from the west end, it is often thronged, — particularly 
of a pleasant evening, — and presents an animated spectacle. 

Taking the northwest side, we come to the Preble House, of which we 
have already spoken, and where we shall be apt to find, beneath the shade 
of its four magnificent elms, (relics of the departed glories of the Preble 
mansion), groups of visitors and loungers picking their teeth after dinner, 
and watching the passers-by. 

Next to the Preble House we come to an old brick mansion, " some- 
what back from the village street," beneath the shade of drooping elms, 
which lingers here in the busy scene of trade and travel, like some octo- 
genarian who finds himself alone in the midst of a new and strange gen- 
eration. It is the first brick house built in Portland. General Peleg 
"Wadsworth (who in his day was a man of military renown; second in 
command in the expedition to the Penobscot, in 1779, and first Represen- 
tative in Congress from this District), built this house in 1785, or rather 



I'OIi TLA XI) . 1 M> 1 -K IM T Y. 



55 



commenced it in that year, for thougli but a two-story house, it was two 
summers in the building. His son-in-law, Stephen Longfellow, who after- 




Congress Street, looking west from Market Square. 

wards occupied it, added a third story to it; the line of addition being 
still visible in the weather-worn bricks. It is a jtlain, old-fashioned man- 
sion, a little mel- 
lowed by age, 
but still emi- 
nently resjtect- 
able, and sturd- 
ily holding its 
own, though it 
is overshadowed 
by its overgrown 
neighbors. 

It is known 
as the Longfel- 
low House, and 
the impression 
generally pre- 
vails that tlie 
poet was born P'"'''" Hou«o. 

in it. That honor, however, belongs to an old wooden house on Fore 




56 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



street, which we shall come upon in our next walk. The poet lived in this 
house in his youth, and it is still in possession of his family. No longer 
ago than last autumn, any one walking down Congress street, after break- 
fast, might have seen 
him seated at the win- 
dow, reading the morn- 
ing paper. 

But let us move on. 
Passing Morton Block, 
and Brown street, we 
come to Brown's Block, 
where the Portland 
Army and Navy Union, 
formed in 1866, by resi- 
dent soldiers and sailors 
who served in the late 
war for the Union, has 
its headquarters. It has 
a reading-room, and a 
valuable military library, 
and every winter enter- 
tains the town with a 
series of first-class lec- 



The Longfellow House. 

tures and concerts, — the profits going to assist the widows and orphans 
of deceased soldiers and sailors, and those disabled by the war. 

The next building worthy of mention is Mechanics' Hall, a handsome 
structure, with granite front, standing at the junction of Congress and 
Casco streets. It was erected in 1857-9, at a cost of $40,000, by the Maine 
Charitable Mechanics' Association : an organization formed for charitable 
and educational purposes by our mechanics in 1815. The association, which 
includes three hundred and fifty of the best mechanics in the city, now owns 
the building clear of debt ; has a library of over four thousand volumes, free 
to members and their apprentices ; maintains a free evening school for in- 
struction in industrial drawing, and for several years past has given a course 
of free lectures, by resident citizens. Post Bosworth, No. 2, Grand Army 
of the Republic, has its headquarters in this building; and also the Young 
Men's Christian Association, who here maintain a free reading-room and 
library. 

Glancing down Casco street, as we cross the head of it, we see a high 
wooden church standing on the cliff Avhich falls into Cumberland street. 
This is the Casco Street (Free-Will Baptist) Church, the clock in the 
tower of which is one of the most useful time-pieces in Portland, being 
visible, on account of the ]ieculiar position of the church, over a very large 




P()irri..\\I) AM) VKIMTY. 



section of tlic city. The church was built in 1827, by the Christian Con- 
nection, and jKissed into the possession of the Free-Wiil Bajitists in 1843. 

Continuing up Congress street, past the junction of Oak street, we come 
to the block in which are the rooms of the I'ortland Fraternity. This is an 
institution suj)- 
ported by the 
liberal denom- 
inations of the 
city, and main- 
tains here a free 
evening school 
and a reading- 
room. 

Just across 
the way is Huck- 
ster's Row, an 
ancient seat of 
retail trade; 
and in the sec- 
ond story of the 
block, entranii 
on Free street, 
is Union Hall 
our oldest ha I: 
the scene ci 
many a gay ban 

half a century Mechanics' Hall. 

ago; once occu])ied as a theatre, often as a church, and of late the head- 
quarters of the Hayden Association. 

On the corner of Green street, opposite the Row, stands the City 
Hotel, — recent enlargements and improvements of which have made it 
quite ])npular with travelers and visitors to our city. 

We now approach Congress Square, formed by the widening of Con- 
gress street and the junction of Free street coming in on a parallel line 
on the left; the block between the two streets terminating in a "heater.'" 
High street enters on the south, and goes out on the north as New High 
street. This Square has an elevated site : the two High streets falling off 
rapidly on either side. It is a sort of Zion's Hill, being surrounded with 
churches of various denominations. On Free street, near its junction with 
the Scjuare, stands the Free Street (Baptist) Church, built as a theatre in 
1830; sold to the Second Baptist Society in 1835; remodeled into a ehureli 
and dedicated in 188(). This church has one of the most graceful spires in 
the city. On High street, near its entrance into the Square, rises the Higli 




58 



POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 



Street (Congregational) Church, built in 1831, and remodeled in the Gothic 
style in 1869; having now a lofty square tower, surmounted by a central 
pinnacle and a group of lesser ones, attracting the eye by its unique blend- 
ing of strength and grace. The interior of this church is very elegant and 
graceful. The second pastor, the Rev. Dr. J. W. Chickering, served for 
nearly thirty years, and won the warm affection of his people. His suc- 
cessor, the Rev. William H. Fenn, was installed in 1866. 
Nearly opposite this church stands the First TJniversalist 
Church, of which the Rev. W. E. Gibbs is pastor. This 
edifice was built in 1865, at a cost of something more than 
160,000. A little way down New High street we see the 
New Jerusalem Tem})le, in which the doctrines of Emanuel 
Swedenborg are piomulgated. This chuich, which has a 




Congress Square, from head of Free Street. 

somewhat peculiar style of architecture, was built in 1868. The Rev. Wil- 
liam B. Hayden has been the well-beloved pastor of this society for a quar- 
ter of a century. Just beyond the Square, on the continuation of Congress 
street, stands Plymouth Church, a brick structure, with a square tower. 
The old Third Parish Society, to Avhich the Rev. Dr. William T. Dwight 
ministered for so many years, was merged with this church a fe^/ years 
since. The present pastor is the Rev. C. F. Dole. 

Having now completed the circuit of the churches which surround the 
Square we might, if time allowed, linger long al)out some of the old man- 
sions in and near it, particularly the Matthew Cobb house, which stands on 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



59 



the corner of High street, a squ.irc, old-fashionctl miiiisioii, which carries us 
back some sixty or seventy yi-ars to tlie time when its owner and occupant 
was one of our leading merchants, with a numerous family about liim, keej)- 
ing his carriage and coat-hman, and cnli itaiiiing his friends witli a generous 
hospitality; or the McLcllan mansion, next below the High Street Church, 
which still preserves the old-time architecture and rich internal finish, and 
contains a valuable collection of paintings and works of ait. It was over 
the high fence surrounding the garden of this mansion that one of our 
native artists, when a boy, first caught siglit of a statue, and thereafter 
was accustomed to run away on Sundays from his own cliurch, tliat he 
might sit in the gallery of High Street Church, and, lookincr out of the 




^,.;^ 










Congress and Park Streets. — Residence of Dr Small. 

window, feast his eyes on the art treasures of what scemetl to him a veri- 
table Paradise. He lias since seen the master-pieces of the old world, but 
we doubt if any of them awakened in his mind such feelings of pleasure 
and admiration as did those figures in the garden of this home of taste 
and wealth. 

Before we leave the Scpiare let us drop <lown New High street, a little 
way, and glance at the elegant and costly priv.ate residences which line the 
new Deering street, running ))arallel with Congress street, on the slope 
below it. How little time it seems since all this region was an open j>as- 
ture, — " Ross's pasture," we boys used to call it, when we went there to 
"play ball," or at sunset to sit on the ledges and watch the sun go down 
behind the hills, .shedding a last lingering glory on the clouds, which the 



60 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



tranquil waters of the Cove gave back with answering colors. Wealth and 
taste have here been lavished in the construction of some of these modern 
residences, and the street, though still new, and bordering on vacant spaces, 
is one of the handsomest in the city, representing the wealth and taste of 
to-day as State street does those of half a century ago. 

But it is time to move on. Continuing up Congress street we pass 
the house of Dr. Horatio N. Small, at the corner of Park street, grlancins: 
down which we catch a glimpse in the distance of the Park Street (Unitar- 
ian) Church, erected in 1828, by the Methodists, and sold in 1835 to the 
Second Unitarian Society, over which the Rev. Jason Whitman was first 
settled, and of which the Rev. Chnrles W. Buck has been ]iastor since 1868. 




State Street, from Congress. 

Our attention is next attracted by St. Stephen's Church, a picturesque 
Gothic edifice, built of our native slate-rock, massive and handsome. It was 
erected in 1854, and the Rev. Asa Dalton has been rector of the church 
since 1868. 

This brings us to the head of State street which comes in diagonally on 
the left, and continuing across Congress street, slopes down through the 
vacant land to Portland street. State street (the gift of one of our early 
merchants, Joseph H. Ingraham), is the handsomest avenue for private resi- 
dences in the city. Of great width, it is lined on each side with two rows 
of lofty elms, whose overlianging branches embower it in foliage. Between 
the two rows of trees, outside each sidewalk, there runs a grassy plot, which 
gives the street a park-like appearance. The large and substantial mansions 



PORTLAXD AND VICINITY. 



61 



.■^ o 



here are chiefly of the olden tiiiie; eacli with its spacious garden in the rear. 
This house with plain granite front, on the left, near the head of the street, 
is the residence of Jolm ^ieal, the j)oet and novelist. That large, square 
mansion, a little farther down, across the way, was long the residence of the 
late Hon. William Pitt Fessenden, and in the garden in the rear lie found 
health and recreation in pruning his fruit trees. The neighboring house is 
occupied by Judge George F. Sheplcy. The mansions on this southwest- 
erly side of the street, as we have said, are of tlie stately and spacious old- 
fashioned style, each standing in tlie midst of extensive grounds. As a 
contrast, take 
the elegant mod- 
ern residence of 
Henry Fox, Esq. 
on the opposite 
side of the 
street, which 
well represents 
the architectur- 
al taste of the 
day. 

State street 
has three houses 
of worship, of 
each of Avhich 
we must say a 
word. The first, 
on the left, as 
we pass down, is 
the State Street 
Congregational 

Church, the so- =— ==..-,_^>_-^ ._ 

ciety worship- 
ping in which state strcct.-K.: ...... c, ..,, . o. ... r ,,.^,.y. 

was an offshoot from High Street Church. The edifice was erected in 
1852, mainly of brick, in the Gothic order, with a lofty and gracefid sj.ire 
of wood, which was taken down in 1871, from a feeling that it was insecure, 
leaving the wooden tower in 'a mutilated condition. The Rev. Edward \ . 
Hincks has been pastor of this church since 1S7(». A little farther down 
the street we come to St. Luke's Cathedral, l>uill in 1SG7, of blue limestone, 
with trinmiings of red and gray freestone, in tiie early Gotliic style. This 
church is not yet comideted, the present structure being the main edifice to 
which a transept is to be added at the north end. The interior is very 
richly finished. St. Luke's is the first edifice erected by Protestants in 




62 



POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 



New England for a Cathedral, or Bishop's Church, and its service is more 
ritualistic than that of an ordinary parish church. It is intended as a 
center for the Episcopal Church in the diocese, and is under the imme- 
diate charge of the Bishop, 
— an office now filled by- 
Bishop Neely. Still farther 
down, on the opposite side 
of the street, stands the Ro- 
man Catholic Church of St. 
Dominic's, built in 1828. 
Connected with it, but 
fronting on Gray street, is 
the large Catholic School 
of St. Dominic's, erected in 
1865. Its teachers are the 
Sisters of Notre Dame, and 
it will accommodate about 
four hundred scholars. 

On the corner of Dan- 
forth and State streets rises 
a large, three-story brick 
mansion, occujiied as the 
Female Orphan Asylum, 
where between thirty and 
forty girls are cared for, 

state Street.— Residence of Henry Fox. and put iutO Other homeS 

as they grow up. This institution was established in 1828, through the 
contributions of benevolent citizens; has always been well managed by a 
board of ladies, and now holds property to the value of at least $50,000. 

On Pine street, near the junction of State and Congress, may be seen 
the Pine Street (Methodist) Church, a unique brick edifice, which shows 
what can be done in the way of adapting a piece of architecture to a limited 
lot of ground. It was built in 1875. 

Near the head of Mellon street, where it enters Congress street, we 
pause to look off u])on 

"^ the breezy dome of groves, 

The shadows of Deering's Woods," 
of which Longfellow sings again : 

"And Deeriug's "Woods are fresh and fair, 

And with joy that is almost pain 
My heart goes back to wander there, 
And among the dreams of tlie days tliat were, 

I find my lost youtli again." 

Many another Portland boy finds his lost youth again as he recalls the days 




J'OirJLA.y/) AM) VK'IMIY 



63 




when he went "acorning" in Deering's Woods. The view from this point 
is wide and beautiful. Congress street, as we have said, runs along tlie 
ridge of the pe- 
ninsula, which, 
at this point, 
slopes rapidly 
down to the 
head of the 
creek running 
in from Back 
Cove. On the 
shore of this 
creek rise Deer- 
ing's Woods, a 
tract of wood- 
1 a n d la r g e r 
than can easily 
be found else- 
where within 

the limits of so congress and Dow Streets —Residence ot ijoncrai Noai Dow. 

small a city. Congress street here looks off over "the breezy dome" of 
these woods, 
commanding a 
view of the vil- 
lages in Deer- 
ing, the diver- 
sified country 
beyond, and 
the snow-clad 
peaks of the 
White Mount- 
ains on the dim 
horizon. 

Moving on 
past the resi- 
dence of Gen- 
eral Neal Dow, 
at the corner 
of Congress and 
Dow streets, we 
come to Walk- 
er street ''lane- Brackett and Walkci Streets. — Residence of Albion Lttl" 

ing up which we see, at the corner of Brackett street, the residence ot 




64 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



Albion Little, Esq., and soon after turn to the left into Bramhall street, 
at whose junction with Brackett street we come upon the Reservoir of the 
Portland Water Works, supplied by Lake Sebago, seventeen miles dis- 
tant, and having an area of one hundred thousand square feet, with a ca- 
pacity of about twelve millions of gallons. 

Turning now again to the right we pass into Arsenal street, and find 
ourselves in front of the Maine General Hospital, standing on the brow of 
Bramhall's Hill, on the site of the old State Arsenal. This noble institu- 
tion, incorporated by Act of Legislature in 1868, aided by State bounty and 
the contributions of private citizens, was dedicated in October, 1874. Tlie 




State Reform School. 

plan of the hospital contemplates a cluster of buildings, embodying all the 
modern improvements of good ventilation, free admission of air and sun 
light, with an adequate supply of heat and pure water. This plan requires 
time for its completion, and as yet only the central building and eastern 
pavilion are finished and brought into use. These are handsome structures 
of brick, in the Italian-gothic style, four stories high; the private apart- 
■ments and wards being very neatly finished. The establishment of the in- 
stitution is largely due to the efforts of our physicians and surgeons, who 
render important services without i)ecuniary compensation. Having as yet 
no fund to draw upon for charitable j^urposes, it is necessary to charge 



J'Oh'TI.A.XI) AXft VlflMIY. 



65 





jUO ..- 

Trnv v'^ '.rr ri ,^l! i el. 1 1 1 i 1 '^ Wt" 







rttiMH 



.^.liiiiii 

*- ■ "■ — ■ — ■ ■.! ■ — v 



fcr 



-^ 




Some of our Chsntlet. 



66 



POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 




patients a fixed sum 
per week, which is 
put at the lowest pos- 
sible figure. For jja- 
tients of ordinary- 
means the price is sev- 
en dollars per week in 
the Avards proper, 
which includes board, 
medical attendance, 
and medicine; and 
about twice this sum 
for those occupying 
private rooms. On 
admission a deposit of 
five weeks' board is 
required in advance 
I simply for security ; 
I and in case a patient 
°- does not remain in the 
h hospital five weeks 
I the balance is ])aid 
I back. There are at 
I present four free 
Z beds established by 
§ private subscription, 
"^ and it is hoped the 
number will be in- 
creased. Patients 
have been received 
from all parts of tlie 
State, — Portland fur- 
nishing only about 
twenty-five jier cent, 
of the number. This 
is a State institution, 
now in its infancy, but 
destined to grow in 
usefulness with the 
munificence of the 
State, and of private 
benefactors. It stands 
upon a breezy, health- 



POKTLAM) A\lf VK'IMTY. 



67 



fill site, and its windows look out upon a broad expanse of country, bounded 
l)y distant mountains, and comprising a lovely prospect. 

A few steps now bring us out upon the Western Promenade, wiiicli 
runs along the brow of Bramhairs Hill, and commands a wi<le and varied 
lajidscape. In lOSO George Bramhall (from whom the hill takes its name) 
came here, and Iniying a tract of four hundred acres, hewed himself out a 
home in the primitive forest which then covered the hill, and pursued his 




Bramhall's Hill. — Residence of Hon. John B. Brown. 

trade as a tanner. The hill here falls off suddenly ; the stee]i descent being 
partially clothed with odorous pines. At its foot the green lateral rid'_'es 
tell the tale of some pre-historic landslide, when a great river flowed where 
now the railroad runs. It was down there, where we see the Deering ^^an- 
sion, on the right, that ^fajor Church wlii|iped the Iiulians in September, 
insih in which fight (icorge liramhall was killed. We m;iy be sure it was 
an hour of rejoicing when, :il)out sunset, the troops ni.irclicd Icu-k. with 



68 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



flying colors, through the woods, to the little village then two miles away 
at the other end of the peninsula. 

That large building which we see, a few miles distant, is the State 
Reform School, where a hundred and thirty or forty boys — the waifs and 
astrays of society — are put to useful pursuits under reformatory influences. 
The pi'ison-like features of the institution have been eliminated, and the 
boys are now divided into three grades, and for good conduct are promot- 
ed through them, from the lowest to the highest. 

Let us seat ourselves here and look into the sunset. The gleaming 
waters of Fore River on one hand, and of Back Cove on the other, almost 
encircle the elevation on whose bi-ovv we sit. The green slope of the hill 




Spring and Neal Streets. — Residence of Hon. Israel Washburn, Jr. 

stretches away into a wide pi-ospect of field and woodland, diversified by 
villages and farm-houses, and swelling in the distance into forest-clad hills. 
With Abner Lowell's sketch of the summits to be seen from this point in 
our hands, we may make out the Town Hall and Congregational Church 
in Gorham, Me., and behind them Ossipee Mountain, in New Hampshire, 
fifty-three miles away. Also, farther to the east, the church in Standish, 
Me., with the peak of old Chocorua rising far beyond it. Sweeping 
along the billowy line we see Mount Carrigain, sixty-three miles distant; 
nearer at hand the long line of Saddleback, in Sebago, Me. ; and then the 
eye strikes the White Mountain range, and climbs from peak to peak, over 
Mounts Willard, Webster, Jackson, Pleasant, Franklin, and Munroe, to the 
white dome of Mount Washington, mingling with the clouds on the horizon. 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



69 



The inner line of the 
notable of which 
is that of Hon. 
John B. Brown, 
standing in the 
midst of ton 
acres of highly 
im J) roved and 
cultivated land, 
with gardens 
adorned with 
rare jdants and 
statuary, and 
overlooking a 
wide extent of 
beautiful scen- 
ery. 

Moving on, 
and glancini: 
down S p r i n g 
street, we see the 
splendid modern man- 
sion of the Hon. Israel 
Washburn, Jr. Passing 
down by the Western 
Cemetery we come ajjon 
the residence of Harry 
B. Brown, artist, whose 
studio, attached to his 
house, is an attractive 
point for all lovers of art. 
Here we strike Danforth 
street, and turning east- 
ward pass the fine resi- 
dence of T. C. Hersey. 
Esq., seated high in the 
midst of ornament al 
grounds, an<l ciiiiimaiid- 
ing a wide view of the 
harbor, the cape, and the 
ocean beyond. 

On the opposite side 
of the street, a little far- 
ther down, are the twin 



Promenade is bordered with fine residences, most 




Danforth Street.— Residence of T. C. Hersey. 










Spring and Emery Streets. — Residence of S. C. Andrewj. 



70 



POETLAND AND VICINITY. 




Danforth Street. — Residences of Andrew and Samuel E. Spring. 

mansions of Messrs. Andrew and Samuel E. Spring. On Emery street, 

which enters 
here, Ave see the 
Home for Aged 
Women, a hand- 
some brick edi- 
fice, where some 
twenty or more 
old ladies pass 
the evening of 
their days in 
quiet and com- 
fort, paying only 
an entrance fee 
of one hundred 
dollars. The in- 
stitution is under 
llie charge of an 
association of 
ladies represent- 
ing the various 
churches of the 
city. 

Pine and Lewis Streets.— Residence of Holman S. Melcher. AmOUg OtllCr 




rOiri'LASD AM) VKIMTY. 



fine residences in this part of the city we may mention those of Sullivan 
C. Andrews, Esq., on the corner of Spring and Emery streets, and II. S. 
Melcher, Esq., on the corner of Pine and Lewis streets. 

Continuing down Danforth street, to the corner of Park street, we 
come upon the elegant mansion of Kuggles S. Morse, Esq., built ot trcc- 




Oanforth and Park Streets —Residence of Ruggies S. Morse. 

Stone, in a highly ornamented style; a fine spcfinuMi of architectural taste, 
and the most costly |)rivate residence in the city. 

A little farther down, on the corner of High street, wc may contrast 
this modern residence with the old-time mansion of John ^Nliisscy, Es(|.. a 
building of spacious front, seated in the mi<lst of its ol<l-fashio?u'd crai'di'n, 
and surrounded with magnificent elms, whose lofly siinimits and wi.lc- 
sweeping branches are worth coming far to see. 

Turning now up High street we are soon in Congress Sciuarc again, 
and so ends our second w.ilk. 



72 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



FROM MARKET SQUxVRE TO INDIA AND COMMERCIAL STREETS. 

If the visitor again finds himself in Market Square, some bright morn- 
ing, he cannot do better than turn eastward and saunter down Middle 
street. This is one of our oldest thoroughfares, having been accepted by 
the town as long ago as 1724, previous to which time a path had been 
opened through the woods. It was originally called " the Middle street," 
from its relative position between " the Fore " and " the Back " streets, 
which name it has ever since borne. Though originally occupied by the 




South side of Middle Street, from Cross to Union. 

dwelling-houses of the early settlers, the old-time mansions have long since 
given place to the demands of traffic, and Middle street is now one of our 
principal business avenues, chiefly devoted to the retail dry-goods trade. 

Leaving Military Hall on the left, we pass down Middle street from 
the point where it enters the Square to its junction with Free street. This 
portion of the street escaped the fire of 1866, and the stores here are plain 
bri(!k structures, some of them of comjjaratively ancient date. That low 



PORTLAM) A.\J> VKISrrV 



73 



Moc-k of two stories, on the K'lt, is fi spared monument of the great fire, 
having been saved from destruetioii, wliile the stores on botli sides of it 
were leveled to the ground. It was remodeled in 1873, the three original 
stories being reduced to two, but its low roof, in contrast with the loftier 
structures around it, still serves to remind us of the humbler style of build- 
ing which prevailed fifty years ago. 

Free street enters here, forming a " heater." The lower end of this 
street, where it joins Middle street, is devoted to business and contains 
some fine stores, but the upper end, where it climbs the acclivity under 
the elms, to Congress Square, is lined with ])rivate residences, some of 
which are of modern elegance, while others have an air of old-time state- 
liness and seclusion. 




M i;| ni T-' 






lllHll 1103^1 aV 





Falmouth Hotel. 



All now before us, down ^Middle street, is fresh and new. Tlu' tire 
of ISGG leveled everything here, and the new business structures which 
have arisen from the ruins far outshine the old in loftiness and architec- 
tural pretentions. Some are of l)rick covered with mastic; some of hand- 
some pressed brick, with Albert-stone trimmings; others of Connecticut 
freestone, and some of granite, many having iron pillars, caps, sills, ami 
ornamentations. The styles arc various, and often ornate, the warerooms 
spacious and handsome. So far aloncj here as the eye can sweep the street 
architecture is of a noble and attractive character, the blocks of warehouses 
being divcrsifit'd with hotels an<l bank buildings. 



74 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



The plainest block is Mussey's Row, high up on the wall of which a 
marble slab tells the story of the ravages of tire on this spot : 

"Homestead of Benjamin Mussey, A. D. 1749. Mussey's Row begun by his son, 
John Mussey, in 1799, — completed in 1801. Partially burnt, and rebuilt by him, in 
1815. Partially burnt, and rebuilt in 1852 by his sou, John Mussey. Wholly burnt, 
and rebuilt in 1856 by the same. Wholly burnt in the great fire of July 4th and 5th, 
1866, and rebuilt by the same." 

Here, at the corner of Union street, stands the Falmouth, our largest 
hotel, a magnificent structure, built by Hon. John B. Brown, after the fire 
of 1866. The front is of Albert-stone, the side Avails of pressed brick, with 




First National Bank. 

Albert-Stone trimmings. It has a frontage on Middle street of one hundred 
and fifty-three feet, by one hundred and seventy-four on Union street; is 
six stories on Middle and seven on Union street, and contains two hundi-ed 
and forty rooms, and ton large stores. It is fully equip]iod witli all the con- 
veniences of a modern first-class hotel, including an elevator, and bathing- 
rooms on all the principal floors. 

Adjoining the Falmouth, on the corner of Plum street, is the red sand- 
stone building of the First National Bank. A little f;irther down, on the 
opposite side, is the fine granite front of the Casco Bank building, occu- 



POETLAND AND VICINITY. 



lb 



pviiig the site of the dM "Sun Taveiii/' hiter known as tlie Casco House, 
whenee, in days ot' yore, the stages were wont to depart for the country 
towns. Tiiis house, in the time of tlie Kevolution, was the residence of 
Brigadier Jedediali Preble. His son. Commodore Edward Pieble, after- 
wards lived and died in it. It is a singular coincidence that this house in 
which the Commodore lived, and the one which he built and which was 
long occuined by his widow, (the present J^reble House), should both have 
been converted into hotels. 

The Maine Savings Bank has 
its banking-rooms on tlu' corner 
of Plum street, undei- the St. 
Julian, a neat little hotel, con- 
ducted on the European jilan, 
and a little further along is the 
handsome Canal Bank building, 
of red freestone. 

A few steps now luring us to 
Exchange street, anciently call- 
ed Fish, opened in 17'J4. From 
Middle to Fore street it is five 
hundred feet long, and is lined 
with handsome business blocks 
from end to end, the last gajt 
loft by the fire of 1866— which 
laid low every building upon it 
— having been filled by the erec- 
tion of "Stanton Block" (named 
in honor of the famous War Sec- 
retary) in 1875, by Hon. W. W. 
Thomas. On this street, o))|)o- 
site the entrance of Milk street, 

our Board of Trade has its head- _^ ^ 

quarters : an organization of our 
leading business men, which has 

done much to promote the ))ros- Casco Bank. 

l)erity of the city. Here also is the Merchants' Exchange, with its reading- 
room, whither our merchants resort for information, bargaining, and con- 
sultation. All who have an eye for fine architectural ctTects will .•itlniirc 
the facaih- of the Merchants' l>ank on this street. 

That part of Exchange street which runs from Middle to Congress 
street was laid out in 179.'], and originally called Court street. On tlio 
northeast corner of Middle .and Exchange streets stands the Post-Ofhco, 
an elegant building of Vermont marble, occu])ying a squ.are by itself. Its 




76 



POETL^iND AND VICINITY. 



pure white walls are in strong contrast to the warmer-colored brick build- 
ings about it, and it looks a little cold in its elegance and chasteness. Its 
cost was half a million dollars. The ground floor is occupied for the Post- 
OfRce, and the second story for United States court-rooms and oftices. This 
is the third costly post-office building that has occupied this site, — the other 
two having been destroyed by fire. The first post-office in Falmouth, under 
authority of the Continental Congress, was established in 1775, by Benja- 




South sido of Middle Street, from Plum to Exchange. 

min Franklin, Postmaster General for the United Colonies. Deacon Sam- 
uel Freeman "was the first postmaster, his commission bearing date October 
5, 1775. We have had sixteen postmasters, the present incumbent being 
ex-Judge Charles W. Goddard. Judge Goddard has obtained from the 
records at Washington the following list of the postmasters of Portland 
since the organization of the American postal service under Postmaster 
General Franklin: "Deacon Samuel Freeman, appointed October 5, 1775; 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



77 





Tlioinas M. Pi(iili>s, .Inly 1, 1804; .loshuii \Viii<r.itc, Jr.. Kcl.riKiry 20, 1805; 
James Wingutc, Auirust !>, 180.'); Koli- 
ert Ilsley, June 1, IMo; Mark Harris, 
1823; Dr. Nathaniel Low, December 3, 
1823 ; Nathaniel Mitchell, Ai)ril 9, 1829; 
Thomas Todd, December 8, 1834; Na- 
thaniel Mitchell, September 11, 1839; 
Colonel Sylvanus R, Lyman, May 4, 
1841; Nathan L. Woodbury, April 2, 
1845; Joshua Dunn, May 5, 1849; Na- 
than L. "Woodbury, April 1, 1853; Sam- 
uel Jordan, Ai)ril 1, 1857; Maj. Andrew 
T. Dole, April 8, 1861; Judge Woodbury 
Davis, December 9, 1865; Charles W. 
Goddard, October 7, 1871." 

During the first year after its estab- 
lishment onlv eiirhtv-t'oui' letters were 



wmm 





received at this jiost-office, — the 
mail running once a week. Now 
liie revenue is about §80,000 a 
\(ar, and the expenses 832,000. 
Pwenty-onc clerks and ti'ii car- 
riers are employed in the oilice, 
and fourteen route agents distri- 
liiite the mails on the various lines 
of railway radiating from this 
point. In 1S()4 the d;iily western 
in.iil was a new undertaking; now 
twenty-five mails arrive and dr- 
part daily. 

-^'- • "■ -^ Glancing up Exchange street 

we see the fine block of the Portland Savings Hank, and not far above it 



78 



POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 



the Printers' Exchange, where are issued the Daily Argus (Democratic), 
the Daily Press (Republican), and several weekly newspapers, including 
Zion's Advocate (Baptist), and American Citizen. The Daily Advertiser 
(Independent-Republican) has its office just around the corner, on Federal 
street ; and the Sunday Times (Independent) is published at 379 Congress 
street, in Williams' Block. The office of the Transcript (a literary and 
family weekly) is at 44 Exchange, below Middle street. 

Continuing down Middle street, below Exchange, we enter the region 
of wholesale dry-goods, clothing, hardware, crockery, and druggist ware- 
houses, built 
since the fire of 
1866, previous 
to which time 
trade had made 
but very few 
encroachments 
upon the old 
family estates 
in this direc- 
tion. Here, on 
the left, was 
the old Plant 
Sawyer man- 
sion, a fine resi- 
dence seated in 
the midst of an 
extensive and 
well-kept gar- 
den. It was for 
some years the 
residence of the 
Hon. John M. 
Wood. Its site 
is now covered 

Exchange Street, from Middle to Fore Street. with busiuCSS 

blocks. Just opposite stood the unfinished marble hotel commenced by Mr. 
Wood, 1)ut never completed. Only the melancholy ruins left by the fire of 
1866 now remain to remind us of this unfortunate enterprise. 

Here we cross Pearl street, a wide avenue extending straight across 
the city from water to water. This street was laid out and widened after 
the great fire of 1866. Previous to that time the cross streets in this vicin- 
ity were very narrow, this being the most ancient and dense part of the 
town. There were many narrow lanes here in early times, some of which 




PORTLAND AND VICLSITY. 



79 



bore odd names. Newbury street, for instance, was known as Turkey lane, 
and that part of Hampshire street which runs from Middle to Fore street 
was called Chub lane. Then there was Moose Alley, now Chatham street, 
which is said to have owed its name to the fact that a moose was killed 
there in early times. Many of the houses standing here before the tire uf 
1866 dated from the middle of the last century. The oldest house in the 
city — built by Enoch Moody, in 1740, — stood on the corner of Congress 
and Franklin streets. The oldest house now remaining in the city stands 
near the foot of Preble street. It is a one-story structure, built by Hugh 
McLellan, in 1755, 
on Congress, oppo- 
site Casco street. 
]Mr. McLellan had 
the frame brought 
from Gorham, and 
built the house for 
his daughter, who 
married Joseph 
McLellan. It stood 
on that site for over 
one hundred years, 
and in 1866 was re- 
moved to its present 
position, where it is 
still used as a dwell- 
ing house. Owing 
to the fact that the 
city has been so 
many times swept 
by fire, we have no 
very ancient struc- 
tures remaining. pos< office. 

The old mansions in this part of the city, long the homes of families 
prominent in our history, have all been swept away. Our oldest church, 
the First Parish, has seen but fifty years. All where we are now walk- 
ing is the growth of the past ten years, excej)t a few ancient and dilapi- 
dated dwelling-houses at the corner of Mi<ldle and India streets, which still 
linger among the modern structures around tluMu tn remind us of the <lays 
that are gone. 

At the corner of Deer street we come uj)on the spot where, uj) to 
1866, stood the old Second Parish Cluirch, with its wide brick pavement 
in front; a spot sacred to many ticjm its association with the ministry of 
the sainted Payson, who prtatlied here for twenty years. The clock in 




80 



POETLAND AND VICINITY. 



the tower of this church was of great convenience to all doing business 
on Middle street, and after its destruction by the fire of 1866 many an 
eye was involuntarily cast in this direction to learn the time o' day. The 
site of the church is now covered by a block of cheap shops. 

In this vicinity we come upon traces of the great fire. This portion 
of Middle street, previous to 1866, was occupied by dwelling-houses, which 
have been in part replaced by stores, while spaces still remain vacant wait- 
ing for the demands of business, it being evident that the trade of the city 

must extend in 
this direction. 

At the junc- 
tion of Hamp- 
shire street we 
reach the point 
where in early 
times a stream 
floAved across 
Middle street 
into Clay Cove, 
and was span- 
ned here by a 
bridge. The 
street has here 
been filled in 
and raised to 
nearly a uni- 
form grade, but 
the ancient lev- 
el may be seen 
by looking over 
the wall into 
the sunken 

Portland Savings Bank. grOUUds of the 

Thomas Browne estate, " where once the garden smiled." Clay Cove itself 
has also been filled up and built upon. It lay just below this point, and 
in early times was a marked feature in the topography of the town. Thirty 
or forty years ago ship-building was carried on extensively in the Cove, and 
many a vessel of large tonnage has been launched where now is solid land 
covered with buildings. 

This brings us to India street, our most ancient thoroughfare, having 
probably been opened before 1680, at which time it was called Broad street. 
On the resettlement of tlie town, in 1724, it was laid out four rods Avide 
under the name of High King street. It received its present name in 1837. 




PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



81 



It was long — in connection with Back, now Congress, street — the princi- 
pal route out of town. On the corner of Middle street a meetinfr-liou.se 
was built in 17*21, which was occu|)ied until the erection of the P'irst Parish 
church ill 174t>. A iiighly respectable old street was this previous to the 
fire of 180G. Its old family mansions, with their terraced gardens in the 
rear and their lofty elms in front, had an air of antiquity and staid respect- 
ability now lost to the street forever. It has never wholly recovered from 
the ravages of the fire, and tlu' desolate sites of the Fessenden and other 
mansions remain to re- 
mind us of the times 
that were. 

Passing down India 
street a short distance 
we come to Fore street, 
turning into which, on 
the left, a few minutes' 
walk brings us to the 
foot of Hancock street, 
on the corner of which 
stands an old-fashioned 
mansion, "the old square 
wooden house, upon the- 
edge of the sea," in 
which Henry W. Long- 
fellow was born on the '^°"^ ""^ HjncoclN streets — Birthplace of the Poet Longfellow. 

liTth day of February, 1807. Here his father, Stephen Longfellow, resided 
before removing into the house built by his father-in-law, General Wads- 
worth, on Congress street. In those days the sea flowed up to the edge 
of the road, opposite the house, which commanded a fine view of the har- 
bor. Within the recollection of our middle-aged citizens the l)c:ich oppo- 
site the house was the scene of tlie rite of baptism, administered on the 
Sabbath, in the presence of a crowd of interested spectators. Now the 
beach is covered, and the sea pushed farther out, by the made-land of the 
Grand Trunk Railway, whose trains run where once the tide ebbed and 
flowed. The house is of three stories, and is still in good repair. 

A short distance eastward of the poet's birthplace, near the foot of 
Mountfort street, is the site of the house of George Cleeves, our first settler, 
who was attracted iiere in 1G32 by the brook which suppliiMl biin with fresh 
water. Only a few years since, previous to the introdu(^tion of the Sebago 
water, IJetliuel Sweetsir was selling the water of this ancient spring io our 
citizens, in time of drouth. 

Returning now to India street we pass, on tlie left, the freitjht-station 
and round-house of the Grand Trunk Railway, occupying the site of Fort 




82 



FOETLAND AND VICINITY. 



Loyal, whence, in 1690, our early settlers were carried captives, a weary 
way through the wilderness, to Montreal, with which city this very rail- 
road now gives us daily connection. 

We are now at the foot of India street, and find ourselves on the ex- 
tensive premises of the Grand Trunk Railway, whose wharves and ocean 
sheds afford magnificent accommodations for its great freight business be- 
tween Canada and Europe. Here are the wharves of the Allan steamships, 
which from November to May of each year give a weekly connection with 
Liverpool. Here, too, lie the Halifax steamers, which make regular con- 




Elevator in the distance. 

nection with that city and all parts 
of Nova Scotia and Prince Edward 
Island. The amount of freight hand- 
led here during the year, between the 
railroad and the steamers, is immense, 

and the scene presented during the winter season is a busy one, giving the 
spectator enlarged ideas of the commerce of our port. 

Just here, too, begins our wholesale business avenue. Commercial street, 
one hundred feet wide and a mile long, running across the Avhole water- 
front of the city, with a railroad track in the middle of it, connecting the 
Grand Trunk with the railroads running east and Avest, and with branches 
down the wharves for the accommodation of shipping. Here was anciently 
a short street, accepted in 1724, and known as Thames street. It is now 
absorbed in Commercial street, and no longer exists. Commercial street 
contains ninny fine blocks of wholesale warehouses, and by its near access 



roUTLAND AND VICINITY. 



83 



to all the wharves, and its railroad accoiniiuxlaiioiis, — bringing the pro- 
ducts of the Great West to the doors of our merchants, — affords rare fa- 
cilities for the reception and shipment of goods. In the busy season it 
presents an animated scene. 

Let us stroll along this business thoroughfare and note the principal 
objects of interest. Here, on the right, is a relic of other days, strangely 
out of keeping with the substantial warehouses among wiiich it stands. It 
is the old family mansion built by the widow of Brigadier Preble, in ITSG, 
on the site of her father's house which was burned in the destruction of 
the town by Mow- 
att, in 1775. This 
was then a beautiful 
retired situation, 
looking out upon 
the harbor, and the 
house was surround- 
ed by a garden filled 
witli fruit and orna- 
mental trees. Forty 
years ago Lemuel 
Dyer lived in this 
house, and built 
ships in the rear of 
it. Opposite this 
house is Gait's wharf 
on which stantls the 
new grain elevator 
built by the Grand 
T r u n k Kail w a y 
Company, in 1875, 
at a cost of §50,000. i^ustom houso. 

It has a length of 101 feet, a width of 53 feet, and a total height, includ- 
ing the three-story cupola, of 107 feet. It is fitted with dock elevators for 
loading and unloading vessels, and Avith large steam shovels for unloading 
cars. It has 42 bins for holding grain, each 4G feet deep, and the total 
ca|)acity of the whole structure is 200,000 bushels. 

We come next to Franklin wharf, where lie the Boston steamers, run 
by the Portland Steam Packet Company, formed in 1844, and very suc- 
cessfully managed by such men as Captain .1. B. Coyle and the late Leon- 
ard Billings. At this wharf also lie the steamers of the Elaine Steamsiiip 
Company, which maintains a semi-weekly line to New ^'ork, \\\u\vr the 
managenient of Henry Fox, the general agent. 

A short walk brings us to the Custom House, a handsome granite 




84 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



structure, which fronts upon both Commercial and Fore streets. Completed 
in 1872, at a cost of $485,000, this is one of the most substantial, conven- 
ient, and elegant buildings in the whole country. The interior is richly 
finished, and affords ample accommodation for the transaction of the busi- 
ness of the customs. The first ofiicer connected with the collection of duties 
at this port was Moses Pearson, who was appointed in 1730. The present 
Collector of the District is the Hon. Israel Washburn, Jr. A large busi- 
ness is transacted here, the average annual amount of duties collected for 
some years past not being far from 1900,000. In addition to the regular 
imports and exports, the railroad connection with Canada brings a large 
transit business, so that while, in amount of duties upon consumption and 
warehouse entries, Portland is the seventh or eighth port in the United 




Commercial Street, from foot of Cross Street, looking towards Grand Trunk Depot. 

States, in amount of duties assessed upon all goods passing through the 
Custom House, it is the third or fourth. 

We are now in the center of the wholesale trade in West India goods, 
flour and grain, to which, among others, the Thomas Block of substantial 
warehouses gives ample accommodation. Here, too, are the coal-yards, and 
the fish-markets, where a large wholesale business in fresh fish is transacted. 
Looking eastward from the corner of Cross street, a busy scene is presented 
to the eye. Long lines of freight cars stnnd in the middle of the street, 
from which barrels of flour are rolled on skids into the doors of the ware- 
houses; lumpers and 'longshoremen are discharging corn from other cars 
in baskets on their shoulders ; heavy teams are transporting goods to the 
wharves, for shipment by packet or steamer to eastern ports; crowds of 
pleasure-seekers are crossing the street to reach the Island steamers, while 
groups of merchants, shipmasters, sailors, and day-laborers diversify the 
scene. 



PORTLAX/) AVn VICINITY. 



85 



y.- 



Passing on, we enter the region of the lumber trade, — an important 
interest, — with wharves covered witli ttic pnxlucts of niills in the inter- 
ior, brought clown 

by rail for ship- 1^ T ^_^ 

ment. 

Here the street 
is reduced to a 
shelf of land by 
the high bank of 
York street, wall- 
e d up, under 
which runs the 
trains of the Bos- 
ton and ]Maine 
Railroad. Its sta- 
tion is on one side 
of the street, and 

that of the Eastern Railroad — which also accommodates the Maine Central 
and Portland and Ogdensburg trains — is on the other. These are at the 
head of Railroad wharf, where lie the steamers of the International Steam- 
ship Company, which make semi-weekly trips to Eastport and St. John ; 
also the steamers running to Bangor, Mt. Desert, and Machias. Beyond 
this point lie the works of the Gas Company and various other manufac- 
turinsr establishments. 









86 



POETLAND AND VICINITY. 



THE ISLANDS. 



From the earliest times the islands in our harbor have been much re- 
sorted to by our citizens for recreation during the heats of summer. Cool- 
ness and comfort are to be found on their rocky shores when the city is 
sweltering under a blazing sun. The amusements of bathing and fishing 
may be diversified by strolls through balsamic groves, or by watching the 
surges of the restless ocean as they break in foam at the base of old White 




Scene at end of Custom House Wharf .—" Off for the Islands!" 

Head. Years ago, before pleasure-steamers were introduced, it was the cus- 
tom to make the trip in sail-boats. By mismanagement, or sudden squalls 
of wind, these were sometimes upset, and whole parties of women and child- 
ren were drowned. One of the most lamentable of these disasters occurred 
in July, 1848, when the wife and three children of Mr. Smith, and four 
children of Mr. John Whyley, were drowned by the upsetting of the pleas- 
ure-boat Leo, near Hog Island Ledge, by a sudden flaw of wind. Since 
the introduction of steamboats very few accidents have occurred, many 
thousands each season enjoying the trip with entire safety. 

If we chance to be on Commercial street some warm, summer after- 
noon, we shall see crowds of men, women, and children converging toward 
the end of Custom House Avharf, where the Gazelle and the Express, steam- 
ers of the Peaks' Island Steamboat Comjjany, take their departure. Or, 
at an earlier hour, excursion parties, numbering hundreds, which have come 
by rail from some distant interior town, may be found in pursuit of the 
same object. The harbor at this time presents an animated and beautiful 



poutlaxd a\d vicjmj v. 



87 



scene. Tlie breeze ruffles the water just sufficiently to give coiiimution to 
its surface; tlu- danciiiL; waves gleam in the bright afteriiooii MiiihLiine ; 
the harbor is jierliajis full of coasters, pleasure-yachts, and sail-boats, whose 
white sails, hoisted to dry after the rain, remind one of the wings of a 
flock of water-fowl just rising for flight; sea-gulls wheel through the air 
on the watch for bits of food floating on the water ; row-boats are mov- 
ing about from point to point ; the ferry-boat is steaming over to the oppo- 
site shore of Cape Elizabeth ; and crowds of merry jjleasure-seekers are 
swarming on the decks of the Gazelle. As she moves off from the wharf 
and steams down the harbor, the city with its docks, 
its shipi)ing, its warehouses, its steeples, its " breeze 
dome " of shade trees, and the gilded summit of City 
Hall, rises on its swelling j)eninsula, jjresenting a beau- 
tiful picture. Presently we are oppo- 
site the Breakwater, extending from a 
I»oint on the Ca)»e Elizabeth shore, for 




protection of the siii)ipiiig in southwesterly gales, witli a har1»or-light on its 
outer end to j)rotect them from itself! The Breakwater was commenced 
as long ago as 1886, but was finished only two or three years since. The 
light-house at its extremity is a very tasteful little structure of iron. Now 
we are off Fort Preble, named for our Commo<h)re Edward Preble, and 
situated on Spring Point, Ca])e Eli/,al»etli. The old brick fort has ln-i-n 
demolished to give jdace to ni'W breastworks not yet comjileled. Here 
the liarbor garrison is stationed, and at dose of day we may liear the 
sunset gun, and the drums l)eating the "tattoo." Nearly opposite, on 
House Island, is Fort Scammell, named for Colonel Alexander Scammcll, 
a brave officer of the Pevolutionary army. The original fort, commenced 
in IHOS, with its old-fashioned block-house, has been dismantled to give 
place to a modern fortification, witli bastions, bomb-))roofs, .and heavy 
guns. Fort Scammell occupies a very important position in the liarbor, 



88 



POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 



commanding four of the channels leading into it. It consists in part of 
granite walls, and in part of earthworks. Farther within the harbor, on 
a. low ledge off Little Hog Island, stands Fort Gorges, named for Sir Fer- 
dinando Gorges, the first proj^rietor of this part of Maine. It is octagon- 





steamer John Brooks, for Boston, passing Fort Scammell. 

shape as regards the form of about three-fourths 
of its circumference, the back being straight ; is 

^ built of granite, with embrasures for two tiers 

-;,-~-V": ,i«^-^--*^'^*^-^ of guns, while on the j^arapet guns of the heav. 
iest calibre will be placed. This fort is intend- 
ed to defend the harbor and the channels leading into it. It presents quite 
an imposing appearance with its high granite walls, and green parapets, 
which are neatly sodded. Passing down the ship-channel a short distance 
we reach 



CUSHING'S ISLAND. 

Cushing's Island lies at the mouth of Portland Harbor, its southern 
end forming one shore of the ship-channel which is the main entrance to 
the harbor. It has the most bold and prominent features of all the islands 
in the bay. Rising to a considerable altitude, its southeastern shore pre- 
sents a rocky and ])recipitous front to the sea, terminating at the north- 
eastern end in a castellated bluff of pei-pendicular rock nearly one hundred 
and fifty feet high. Along the high ridge of the island, for nearly its whole 
length, runs a dark forest growth, Avhich gives it a bristly appearance, like 
" quills upon the fretful porcupine." From these woods, on the northerly 
or harbor side, the land descends rapidly to a little . arable valley running 
through the island, and thence to the beaches and ledges that line the inner 
shore. Thus the island presents a stern rampart to the ocean, shutting it 
from view, while it smiles upon the smoother waters of the harbor. 

The earliest English name by Avhich this island, and the main-land in 



PORTLAND AXD VKIXITY. 



89 



Cape Elizabeth opposite to it, were 
known, was Portland, as was also 
the main channel between them, 
" Portland Sound." James An- 
drews was the first proprietor; he 
was living upon it in IGOT, and it 
was known by Ins name. Later, 
it was known as Fort Island, prob- 
ably from its having been a place 
of retreat from the Indians in 
1676, when a fort was hastily 
thrown up there for jirotection. 
It afterwards came into possession 
of Joshua Bangs, whose name it 
bore for more than a hundred 
years. Nearly twenty-five years 
since it was purchased, for ten 
thousand dollars, by Lemuel Gush- 
ing, Esq., of Chatham, Canada, 
who in 1853 built a large brick 
hotel on the island, which he 
n^med the Ottawa House. This 
house has long been a favorite 
resort of the best class of Cana- 
dians, who fill it to its utmost ca- 
pacity during the summer months. 
On the death of Mr. Cushing, a 
few years since, the projierty came 
into possession of his sons, who 
now contemplate making large im- 
provements on the island. 

The original house will accom- 
modate one huinlri'd and fift\- 
guests, and the contemplated addi- 
tions will increase its capacity to 
two hundred and fifty. The sum- 
mer climate of the island is very 
equable and healthy, the average 
range of the thermometer, in the 
rooms, being from 65 to (is «legrees 
throughout the season. The bal- 
samic odors of the firs and spruces 
mingling with the fresh sea-breezes 





90 



POBTLAXD AND VICINITY. 



have a bracing and tonic effect. Good beaches afford opportunities for 
sea-bathing, while both the shore and deep-sea fishing are excellent. Gun- 
ners are caught from the rocks, and off White Head cod and haddock 
abound. 

The island has capabilities of becoming one of the best watering- 
places on the coast. As the whole island belongs to the proprietors, the 
guests have the entire freedom of it, without the fear of trespassing. 
Through the kindness of the Messrs. Gushing it is also open to jDicnic 
parties and camjaers-out, though the shooting of birds is properly forbid- 
den. Among contemplated improvements are summer cottages, for fami- 



^U ''I' 




One of the Beaches on Cushing's Island. 

lies, and possibly a drive around the island, five miles in length, whicli 
would command magnificent sea views. 

There is a good road from the wliarf to the hotel, and a carriage for 
the accommodation of guests. A bowling-saloon and billiard-room assist 
in furnishing amusement. 

On landing from the steamer do not take the open road to the liotel, 
but rather follow the path which leads past the cottages to the willowy 
dell where stands the old farm-house. This hollow, into which you de- 
scend by steps cut in the green bank, is a surprise and a delight — the 
beauty-spot of the island, in strong contrast to the wildness of White 



PORTLAND A.\/> \l< ISITY 



91 



Head, That looks sternly out on the heaving sea; this nestles beneath 
old willows, through which you catch glimpses of the smoother waters of 
the main entrance to the harbor, and the opposite shore of Caj)e Elizabeth. 



trf*inmUaietia:r> 




A bit of the Shore on Cushing's Island. 

That is a bold headland, standing on which, in an easterly storm, the ad- 
mirer of the sublime in nature may see the waves break high in air as 
they ceaselessly beat at the base of the cliff; this is a dimple in the shore, 
smiliTig on a summer sea, where, seated on the grass, with the green wil- 
lows overhead, you may fancy yourself in a rural jiaradise. 

This ))leas;int retreat slopes down to the beach, where are bathing- 
houses, and 
where the 
smooth. hard 
sand, and the 
seclusion of 
the spot, in- 
V i t e to a 
tumble in 
the sea. 

Climl)inu 
now to tilt' 
higher part 
of the island 
we come to 
the hotel, 
standing on 

an elevated Ottawa House. Cushing's Island. 

site commanding magiiilicent views. Pause on the piazza and look towards 
the city. The view of it is the finest in our harltor. On the right lies 
House Island, with its fort; on the left, the ship-channel, dotted with tlu» 







"FlfT'^'tr.: 



92 



FOUTLAND AND VICINITY. 



white sails of passing vessels, with the opposite shore of Cape Elizabeth, 
Fort Preble answering to Fort Scammell, and the projecting breakwater 
with its harbor-light. Across the harbor, in the distance, rises Munjoy, 
with the White Mountains far behind it, from which a chain of lower 
hills stretches away to the west. The whole extent of the city is reveal- 
ed, from Munjoy to Bramhall, its spires rising above the foliage of the 
shade-trees at its western end. 

Now if you would have a still wider view, ascend to the cupola and 
look seaward. The broad ocean is before you, stretching far away to the 

horizon, where the white sails of the 
mackerel fleet mingle with the sky-line. 
Far below you lies Ram Island, with 
the surf beating on its ragged shores; 
eastward lie the outer islands of the 
bay, and Half-way Rock, with its soli- 
tary light-house ; westward is Portland 
Light, and the Two-Lights on the Cape ; 
seaward the waves are all a-shimmer 
with sunlight, and departing ships 
cleave swiftly through them. 

It remains only to visit White Head, 
the grand old headland that guards the 
eastern entrance to our harbor. It is a 
walk of a mile or more along the em- 
bowered path that runs through the 
evergreen woods. Here the close-set 
spruces shut out all sight of the sea, 
so near at hand, while yet the music 
of its breaking waves falls softly on the 
ear. One might think himself dream- 
ing of the ocean in some far inland 
forest. Occasionally a break in the 

One of the Walks on Cushing's Island. dcUSC foHagC givCS a vicW of cluStCrcd 

Stems, rising in "a dim, religious light," like the pillars of some vast ca- 
thedral. The soft carpet of the sod gives back no sound to your footfall, 
and the path is solitary, save the sentinel crow in some tall fir, who caws 
angrily at your intrusion. The walk ends on the open brow of the preci- 
pice, from which the Avoods recede, leaving it to battle with the ocean in 
its native strength. Here the view widens on all sides. Just below, on 
the right, lie the low gi-een shores of Peaks' Island ; in the foreground, 
on the left, are seen the frowning walls of the forts; the city lies in the 
distance bathed in sunshiiic, while in the remote northwest the White 
Mountains mingle their summits with the cumulous clouds. Lookins: east- 




rOHTLAXD wLAi> V1(J12HT1\ 



93 



ward the surl;iCL' of lliu bay is brttkcii by many wooded islands, an<l far 
in tlie dim distance iSeguin api)eai>, a sluidowy outline on the horizon. 
Southward rolls the ocean, with many a sail on its broad bosom, — some 
coming out of the misty distance, wiiile others are disaj»i)earing beyond 
the line which bounds the view. 

White Head presents to the sea a ]irecij)ice of one hundred to one 
hundred and fifty feet in height. It is composed of a gray, granitic rock, 
split into leaves standing on their edges, fallen into broken fragments, 
scarred, seamed, jaggeil, and yet })reseuting smooth, jirecipitous walls. 




White Head, Cushinp's Island. 

painted a warm orange-red by the hardy lichens, whose mission it is to 
clothe the barren rock with beauty. 

The Head projects into the sea in three distinct inassos. havincr be- 
tween them two deep recesses, or miniature fiords, worn far into the clifT 
by the waves. Dowji one of these abysses you may scrand)le over the 
fallen rocks, and sit uTi(b'r the projecting cliff, with tlie foamy sea beat- 
ing on the barnacled ledges at your fei't. Into the otlier recess there is 
no descent. Its walls on all three sides fall precipitously into the water 
which forms its floor. It is a great ball-room, in which oidv the wav«'s 
may (bitice, while we look on from the galleries aliove. The south wall 



94 POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 



of this recess runs out into a point not more than three feet wide at the 
extremity, and lying flat here one may look straight down into the sea, 
a dizzy depth. 

Standing on the top of the cliff, and looking down on the white- 
winged craft which are continually passing, as they leave or enter the 
harbor, rising and falling with graceful dip on the long roll of the sea, 
you feel yourself poised in mid-air, and akin to the sea-birds, which soar 
and sweep around you ; the white sails come and go ; the water surrounds 
you on all sides but one, and spreads in pale blue beauty up the lovely 
bay, or in deeper tints southward toward the horizon lines. 

How different must be the scene when a winter night shuts down 
in storm and darkness, and the angry waves tumble into these rocky re- 
cesses, and leap in foam and spray high into the air. Then it is that 
White Head is white indeed, and a welcome sight to the storm-tossed 
mariner, whose staggering bark leaps at once from a turbulent sea into 
calm waters behind its sheltering shores — the natural breakwater of our 
harbor. 

PEAKS' ISLAND. 

Peaks' Island lies partly inside of Cushing's Island, from which it is 
separated by White Head Passage. Together with Cushing's Island it 
forms an effectual barrier against the waves of the ocean, which would 
otherwise beat in up to the wharves of the city. It is surrounded by 
four islands — Cushing's, House, Hog (or Diamond), and Long — and with 
them forms a beautiful and safe harbor for thousands of vessels annually 
seeking its pi'otection. It is about one and a half miles long by a mile 
and a quarter wide, at the widest part, and contains seven hundred and 
twenty acres. Though not rising to so great an elevation as Cushing's 
Island, or presenting so bold a front to the sea, it has many attractive 
features, being in some respects the most beautiful island in our harbor. 
Its outer shore is rocky and wave-worn, presenting an inhospitable aspect 
to vessels seeking the harbor in a storm. Here the surf breaks heavily, 
and the spray, even in pleasant weather, frequently dashes in the air to 
the height of twenty feet. 

From the seaward shore the Innd rises gradually to a central eleva- 
tion of perhaps a hundred feet in the highest part, commanding magnifi- 
cent views of the ocean, the harbor, and the mountains eighty miles aAvay. 
From this elevation it descends to the inner shore, presenting a green and 
sunny slope to the smoother waters of the harbor. The island frowns upon 
the sea and smiles upon the city. There are few fairer pictures than that 
presented by its long strip of sandy beach, with the high gi-een bank ris- 
ing steeply above it, fringed in part by drooping foliage, behind which 
nestle snug cottages, while on the higher ground ai-e seen the neat little 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



95 



clniith, the scliool-house, and many large board ing-liouses. The houses are 
dotted about in the most charming disregard of order and rcguhirity, and 
foot-paths wind througli the grass from one to another in a very pleasant 
way. For two centuries there was not a regular road, nor a horse, upon 
the island, but a few years since a street four hundred and sixty rods long 
was laid out by the city, and last year the j)ortion of it running from 
Evergreen Landing to the school-house was graded. 

Though not the largest island belonging to the city. Peaks' Island 
has the largest number of inhabitants, the resident j)0])ulation numbering 
three hundred and three. They are largely descendents of our first settlers, 





Jones's Landing, Peaks' Island. 

a hardy and industrious people, doing a 
farming and a good deal of fishing. Of 
years less attention has been paid to fisl 
and more to the entertainment of summer 
tors. The beauty of the island, and its faci 
ties for sea-bathing and fishing, yearly attract 
large numbers of summer boarders, as also ex- 
cursion and picnic parties, and dwellers in tents by the seashore. There 
are now six large boarding-houses on the island, and ten smaller ones. 
These make a special business of entertaining visitors, while nearly every 
house takes in a few boarders during the sea^^on. The average number 
of boarders on the island during the year, for some years past, has been 
twelve hundred and ninety. The number of persons camping-out each 
season is estimated at three to five hundred. There are now live sum- 
mer residences on the island, and the number within a few years to come 
will doubtless rapidly increase. No place on the coast offers greater or 
more varied attractions for summer resiliences. There are sixty-nine dwcll- 
ing-liouses occupied throughout the year, against sixteen twenty-five years 
ago. The island attracts a larger number of visitors than any otlier in our 



96 PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 

harbor, and forms, with its swings, its bowling-saloons, its refreshment- 
rooms, its beaches, its woody retreats and rocky shores, a most attractive 
pleasure-resort. 

Mr. Willis, our historian, tells us that tliere is reason to believe that 
the first attempt to establish a plantation within the limits of ancient Fal- 
mouth was on Peaks' Island. Christoj^her Levett records that in 1623 he 
built and fortified a habitation on an island, which, from his description 
of the location, is supposed to have been this one. He left ten men in 
charge of his house and went back to England to bring over his wife and 
children, but it does not appear that he ever came back. The island formed 
a part of the grant to George Cleeves, and he, in 1637, deeded it to his 
son-in-law, Michael Mitton, from whom have descended the Bracketts and 
Trotts of our day, who still hold possessions there. They are a people 
tenacious of the soil, and the island has been the fruitful mother of law- 
suits in modern times, — one party claiming possession through Mitton, 
and the other through Phillips, to whom Mitton's widow transferred it. 
It is believed to be held now under both titles, by a sort of compromise, 
— the Brackett branch of the Mitton family occupying part of it, and the 
grantees under Phillips the remainder. The island has borne the success- 
ive names of Pond, Michael, Munjoy, Palmer, and Peaks. The first name 
was probably derived from the pond on the island; Michael comes from 
Michael Mitton, the first occupant ; Munjoy and Palmer from succeeding 
owners ; and of Peaks, strange to say, nothing is known. 

The steamer lands at two jDoints on the island : one at the western 
end, called Jones's Landing ; the other at the eastern extremity, known as 
Evergreen Landing. Stepping on shore at Jones's Landing, on a summer 
afternoon, we find oui'selves at once in the midst of an animated scene of 
recreation. Here are the bowling-alleys, the swings, and the old apple- 
trees, beneath which the elders sit while the children play around them 
on the grass. At the head of the wharf stands the Union House, kept 
by W. T. Jones for a quarter of a century past. It is the longest estab- 
lished boarding-house on the island, and for many years has been a favor- 
ite resort of visitors from Canada, who return season after season and fill 
the house to overflowing. It is well managed, and is famous for its fish- 
chowders. A good beach here affords fine facilities for bathing in perfect 
safety, being more favorable in this respect than any other point in the 
harbor. 

Passing along the shore a short distance we reach the western end of 
the island. Let us make this the starting-point for a stroll around it. 
Here, near the shore, is the island cemetery, a neat enclosure, with its 
white marble headstones and monuments. The spot was formerly neg- 
lected, and overgrown with brambles, ex])loring among which, some years 
ago, we found the grave of a poor printer, who visited the island for his 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



97 



hcallli over fifty years ago, and tlicd here. On his gravestone was inscribed, 
at his own request, Po})e's well-known line: ''whatever is, is right." A 
gentleman with us renienibered eoming down from the Argus otiice — in 
which he was then an apiirentice — to attend the funeral. 

We enter next tlie grove where ]Mr. James W. Braekett lias estab- 
lished his Green- 
wood Saloon. 
This is one of 
the most beauti- 
ful spots on the ^^, 
island. The high 
bank is fringed 
here with trees, 
shutting in a 
bowery enclos- 
ure, — half orch- 
ard, half grove, 
— which forms 
a sylvan retreat 
from the crowd 
of pleasure-seek- 
ers at the Land- 
ing. In the cot- 
tage at hand — 
which he con- 
templates en- 

larjrinff JVIr. "Greenwood," Peaks' Island. 

Braekett accommodates summer boarders. Here begins the new street 
which has been laid out along the northern shore of the island, but this 
portion of it has not yet been graded. 

Following its course we pass the bowling-alley.s, the Seaside House, 
and the rear of the Union House, until we come to the Bay View House, 
kept by J. T. Sterling. This house stands high on the bank above the 
shore, and commands a fine view of the harbor and the city. In this 
neighborhood are many neat cottages, most of which accommodate sum- 
mer boarders. The walk liere, along the top of the high bank, comiiiaiids 
fine views. 

We pass now, on the high land, on the right, near the cctitral por- 
tion of the island, the INIcthodist church, and the handsome brick school- 
house built by the city, where a grailed school is maintained. 

We come next to Trefet hen's boarding-house, jileasantly situated in 
the midst of cultivated grounds. On the higher ground beyond is the 
Oceanic House; it is the largest bouse on the island, and has a retired 




98 



POETLAND AND VICINITY. 



location, with a commanding outlook. We pass now into the thick growth 
of evergreens which covers the northeastern portion of the island, affording 






?< r 






^ -B^ i£- 




^~ — -c^^ 



Trefethen's Landing, Peaks' 

many pleasant walks and sunny glades where one may enjoy all the charms 
of solitude. Following the newly-graded road, we come upon the camp- 
ing-ground, where we find quite a village of tents, many of which are very 
comfortably furnished. 

At Evergreen Landing, which we have now reached, there are a re- 
freshment-saloon and a bowling-alley, and many visit this point 'for the 

wildness of its scen- 
ery and the seclus- 
ion from the crowd 
which its rocks and 
groves afford. The 
eastern end of the 
island, in its rough 
and broken features, 
presents a strong 
contrast to the Avest- 
ern end. Though it 
has not the elevation 
of White Head, it 

Evergreen Landing, Peaks' Island. haS a bold rOCky 

shore, opposite which, and near at hand, lies Pumpkin Knob, a handful 
of rocks covered with an evergreen growth. The dead spruces here on 
the top of the cliff are clad with moss, and look like greybeards of the 
forest. Here the shore forms a sort of amphitheatre, on the high rocky 




VOJi TLA \ I) . t V I) VK 7.V J/). 



99 




walls of which are rude seats where we may sit, and look out upon the 
islands of the lower bay, while listening to the niu:?ic of the waves laj)j)ing 
the shore far below. Standing; upon tiio barnacled rocks of the shore here, 
it is grand to look up the storm-beaten walls of the cliff to the sj)ruce8 
which overhang them, gray and weather-worn. 

Circling around the cliff, through the fragrant bayberry bushes, where 
the sea-pigeon flutters in the branches overhead, we come upon the outer 
shore of the island, where the broad ocean opens to view, and the break- 
ers beat upon the rocks. 
Here the solitude is 
broken only by the cry 
of some lone sea-bird, or 
the das^h of the waves 
upon the shore. We 
pass a succession of 
rocky coves, and sea- 
walls — r a ra J) a r t s of 
rounded stones thrown 
up by the waves. There 
is drift-wood on the 
shore, fragments of some 

wreck, perhaps, borne The Outer snore of Peaks- Island. 

by the waves from distant coasts. More than one vessel has been wrecked 
on this rocky shore. In the great gale of the 8th of September, llStiU, the 
schooner Helen Eliza, of Gloucester, Massachusetts, i>arted her cables and 
was driven on to the ledge off' the deep pond, in the darkness and the 
storm. The crew took to the waves ; but of the twelve men aboard, only 
one, Charles Jordan, of Rockport, Mass., succeeded in reaching the shore, 
— all the rest were drowned. The schooner was ground to ]iieces on the 
rocks, and strewed in kindling-wood along the shore. Ten bodies were 
recovered; that of the Captain, Edward Millett, of Rockport, Mass., drift- 
ed out of the undertow and was borne through White Head Passage 
around to the harbor side of the island, where it was found in a cove. 

We are now opposite White Head, the high promontory which forms 
the eastern end of Cushing's Island. Here are the two Brackett boarding- 
houses, pleasantly situated in the midst of gardens and green lit'ld>. A 
beach, sheltered by Cushing's Island, affords good sea-bathing. 

Having completed the circuit of the island, let us now strike across it, 
pausing on the summit of the high ground, near the Ocean View Saloon, 
to gaze upon the glorious scene which meets our vision. Looking east- 
ward the broad Atlantic stretches out bt-fure us until it seems to meet 
the sky, its blue waters dotted with while sails, while the long line of 
smoke, which seems to rise out of the sea, indicates the passing steamer. 



100 PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



Southward tbe bare, bold cliff of old White Head appears in sharp relief 
against the heavy background of dark green forest trees, beyond which 
the roof and cupola of the Ottawa House are visible. Glancing westward 
the entire harbor lies at our feet, filled with vessels, large and small, some 
just coming in, others standing out to sea, while three or four passing 
steamers help to give life and variety to the scene. The forts and the 
light-houses, the numerous forest-crowned islands, the newly-mown fields 
reaching down to the water's edge, all claim their share of attention ; 
while in the distance rises the beautiful forest city, still meriting its old 
and well-known title, though many of its noble trees were laid low in 
the great conflagration. Its two hills, one at either extremity, its ship- 
ping at the wharves, its numerous church-spires, and the gilded top of 
the lantern surmounting the cupola of the City Building glistening in the 
rays of the descending sun, make up a j^icture of surpassing beauty. Be- 
yond all, away in the north, rises the great dome of Mount Washington, 
— whose mighty form is never so sharply defined as at sunset, in mid- 
summer, — its dark purple outlines presenting a strong contrast against 
the crimson sky. When the sun has finally gone down in a sea of fire 
behind the mountains, and we reluctantly begin to walk down the hill, 
our eyes are still fixed on that distant, cloud-like summit, fascinated by 
its strange, weird grandeur, as the shades of evening gather around it. 

LONG ISLAND. 

Long Island lies northeast of Peaks' Island, and is separated from it 
by Ilussey's Sound. It continues the line of natural breakwaters which 
enclose and protect Portland Harbor. In 1706 it was owned by the ubiq- 
uitous John Smith, and on an old map of Casco Bay, published in London, 
it is called Smith's Island. As its present name indicates it has much 
greater length than breadth, presenting a long line of shore to the inner 
bay, while its outer coast is more broken and irregular in form. The 
government charts make it the largest island belonging to Portland, giv- 
ing it an area of nine hundred and twelve acres. According to the school 
census of 1875 it has two hundred and forty-two inhabitants, of whom one 
hundred and forty are males, and one hundred and two females. The men 
are engaged in fishing and farming. As the island has no marked features 
it has been but little visited until within a year or two past. A wharf 
has been thrown out near the western end, where the steamer touches, 
and a bowling-saloon and dining-room afford recreation and refresimient 
to visitors. Mr. Yj. Ponce has projected a large summer hotel, which will 
afford accommodations for boarders, and the indications are that the island 
will become a pc)]nilar resort. Large excursion parties visit it in prefer- 
ence to Peaks' Island because it gives greater seclusion. 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 101 



LITTLE CIIEBEAGUE. 

Little Chebeague lies inside of Long Island, opposite its northeastern 
point. It is connected with Great Chebeague by a sand-bar, dry at low 
water. It comprises but seventy-two acres, but has some attractive fea- 
tures which make it a place of considerable resort. These are a charm- 
ing grove on its highest point, with a thicket of undergrowth near at 
hand ; a spring of mineral water, a beach nearly a mile in length, and 
magnificent views of the bay, and the city in the distance. 

On leaving the wharf, at the landing, observe the bank composed 
wholly of comminuted clam-shells, giving evidence that this was one of 
the feasting-places of the Indians. A ramble along the beach looking to- 
ward the mainland, and extending out to the bar connecting the island 
with Great Chebeague, will be rewarded by the discovery of many curi- 
ous forms of marine life, not the least interesting of which are masses of 
the egg-cells of the buccinum undatunij resembling an agglomeration of 
the hulls of corn, for which they have been mistaken. 

There is a hotel on the island, near the grove, called the Sunnyside 
House, which will accommodate about fifty boarders. The facilities for 
fishing and sea-bathing are good, and to those seeking health the island 
offers pure air and a quiet retreat from the bustle of larger watering- 
places. 

HARPSWELL. 

About twenty miles down the bay lies the long peninsula of Ilarps- 
well. The town comprises several islands in addition, and is said to have 
more sea-coast than any State on the Atlantic coast, except the State of 
Maine. The steamer Henrietta makes a daily trip to this point in the 
pleasure season, and semi-weekly trips during the rest of the year, start- 
ing from Commercial wharf, and the passage, occupying about two hours, 
affords a wide variety of beautiful land and water views. 

Passing down the harbor we see, on the left, the shijvbuilding village 
of East Deeriug, and the Marine Hospital rising above the groves wf Mar- 
tin's Point. Leaving Fort Gorges on the right, we enter the jiassage be- 
tween Peaks' Island and the Hog or Diamond Islands. On the western 
end of Little Diamond there are stages for drying fish, and a* few sum- 
mer residences. Near the middle of the island we pass the light-liouse 
station established by the United States government for the storage of 
coal and buoys, and as the station of the steamer Iris, which supplies 
fifty-two light-houses, nearly all on the coast of Maine. The government 
has purchased and fenced in four acres of land here, and erected a neat 
cottage as a residence for the superintendent. The grounds have great 



102 POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 

variety of surface, including some beautiful nooks, and command a fine 
view of the harbor and islands. It is the intention to clear up the un- 
dergrowth, carefully preserving the trees, and ornament the grounds with 
flowers and climbing vines. The eastern end of the island has a wharf, 
and is frequently resorted to by excursion parties; the city government 
also occasionally takes its guests here and treats them to a clam-bake. 
The island has a diversified surface and a forest growth, and is a favor, 
ite resort of parties camping out. 

Coasting along the rocky wall of Great Diamond Island, crowned 
with a heavy growth of firs, spruces, and oaks, we come in sight of the 
beautiful Diamond Cove which deeply indents its eastern end. This spot 
was much resorted to by j^icnic parties in the days of sail-boat excursions, 
but is now seldom visited. It may be easily reached by row-boat from 
Evergreen Landing. 

Crossing Hussey's Sound we touch at Long Island, then steam across 
to Little Chebeague, and taking a turn around the projecting point of 
Great Chebeague, stop at the landing on that island. Great Chebeague 
belongs to the town of Cumberland. It is a large island of two thou- 
sand acres, and has a considerable jjopulation, with churches and schools. 
It has never been much visited as a summer-resort. The view at this 
point on a fine summer morning, when the sea is smooth and the sun is 
shining, is very lovely. The islands here cluster thick, completely shut- 
ting in the little harbor so that it resembles an inland lake. Outside of 
us lies Hope Island, and outside of that. Crotch Island, and beyond that 
again, Jewell's Island, — all beautiful islands, crowned with forest growth. 
As we steam on we pass between Little Bangs' and Stave Island, and 
cross Broad Sound, in the moiith of which lies Eagle Island, high and 
densely wooded. We have been told that this island is the property of 
two widows, who receive fi'om government an annuity of sixty dollars to 
keep the wood standing as a landmark for the vessels entering the sound. 
The navigation here, owing to reefs and winding channels, is intricate and 
dangerous, for which reason government has also erected a monument on 
Mark Island. 

Following the winding passages we enter Potts's Harbor, and land 
on Harpswell Neck. This long peninsula here narrows to a point, with 
deep water on either side. Just across the arm of the bay, to the east- 
ward, lies Bailey's Island, one of the most beautiful in the bay, but sel- 
dom visited. In line with it northward comes Orr's Island, the scene of 
Mrs. Stowe's novel, "The Pearl of Orr's Island." These islands, indeed, 
are rich in literary associations. Ragged Island, which lies broad off in 
the bay, midway between Bailey's Island and Small Point Harbor, is sup- 
posed to be the "Elm Island" of Rev Elijah Kellogg's stories. Whittier 
has preserved a legend of these isles, and tells in his vigorous verse the 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. lOii 

story of "The Dead Sliip of llarpswoll," a spectre ship, which comes driv- 
ing in as an omen of death, but ni'\ it reaches land : 

" In vain o'er Ilarpswell Neck the star 

Ol" evcniiijr giiiilcs her in; 
lu vail) for licr the hunps are lit 

Within tliy tower, Seirnin ! 
lu vain tlie lKirbor-l)oat siiall hail, 

In vain the pilot call ; 
No hanil shall reef her spectral sail, 

Or let her anchor fall. " 

There is a hotel on the Neck, the Mansion House, at which board 
may be obtained at reasonable rates. Bowling-alleys and billiard-rooms 
have also been built the past season, and a first-class restaurant is open- 
ed, with rooms to let. As ample facilities are offered here for sailing, 
fisiiing, and other seashore sports, the Neck will doubtless be much re- 
sorted to the cominsr season. 




104 PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



DRIVES IN THE VICINITY. 



Those who prefer driving to boating may turn from the islands and 
enjoy pleasant excursions through the neighboring towns of Cape Eliza- 
beth, Scarboro', Peering, and Falmouth. There are many fine drives in 
Cape Elizabeth, commanding views of the city and of the ocean. One 
may skirt along the shore, by the sounding sea, where the Avaves break 
in spray upon the rocks, or may turn inland and drive through embow- 
ered roads, among green fields and orchards. In Deering he may visit 
Evergreen Cemetery, or the beautiful scenery on the shores of the Pre- 
sumpscot. Along Falmouth Foreside are charming vicAvs of the bay, en- 
closed by its Avooded islands. 

Let us drive first through Cape Elizabeth and Scarboro' 

TO PROUT'S NECK. 

This old-time pleasure-resort is something over fourteen miles distant 
from the city by way of the Ocean Road, round the Cape. This Avas the 
old road to Boston in the early days when the settlers crept along the sea- 
shore, crossing the mouths of the rivers by ferries. Parson Smith, on his 
trips to the metropolis of Ncav England, crossed Portland Harbor by ferry 
and rode on horseback along this shore road to Saco and Portsmouth, 
where he lodged over night, reaching Boston the third day. There are 
shorter routes to the Neck than this, but no other commands so many 
fine AdcAvs of the ocean. 

Crossing Portland Bridge we have a fine view of the harbor, Avith 
the long line of AvharA'es, the shijiping, and the islands doAvn the bay. 
At the Cape Elizabeth end of the bridge are the premises of the Port- 
land Dry Dock Comj)any, comprising an area of tAventy-five acres, facing 
the harbor. The comj^any Avas incorporated in February, 1868, and the 
docks Avere formally opened in September, 1869. There are two docks, 
the larger one having the greatest draught of Avater 2)ertaining to any 
dock in the United States. It is 425 feet long, 100 feet Avide, Avith a 
depth of Avater on the gate-sill of 23 feet, at ordinary high tide. The 
dock Avould probably take in any vessel noAv afloat, excej^ting the Great 
Eastern. Powerful pumps, capable of emptying the basin in about two 
hours, are worked by steam, in a building by its side. The gate fitting 
the entrance to the dock is constructed in the form of a vessel, with boAV 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 105 

and stern shajied alike. It contains about two liiuitlred tons of ballast, 
besides compartnionts which may be tilled with water. When the dock 
is to be opened, water is let in through the oi»enings in the gate till the 
basin is tilled ; the water is pumped out of the compartments mentione<l 
above, till the gate floats out of the grooves in which its ends and bot- 
tom are fixed; the gate is then towed out of the way, and vessels enter. 
The next operation is to tow the gate back into position over the grooves, 
into which it fits, water-tight. When properly placed water is let into it 
and it sinks at once, and the dock is closed. Then the j)Uinps begin to 
throw out the water from within the basin, in immense streams that as- 
tonish those who witness it for the first time. The vessels sink upon 
cradles placed for them, and are steadied, as the water leaves them, by 
various mechanical appliances. These docks are built on the plan of the 
Simpson patent, and cost about $250,000. 

At tlie end of the bridge, on the right, is a point of land where in 
the summer may always be seen a number of tents or shanties, occupied 
by Penobscot Indians. For many years they have annually visited this 
spot, and made it the headquarters of their trade in baskets. Formerly 
the place was (juite isolated, but of late years the dwellings of the white 
man have crowded nearer to the shore, until now but a narrow s))ace is 
left these descendents of the original jiroprietors of the soil. Whether 
they have any traditional right to an occupancy liere we are unable to 
say ; but the spot is one of those i)leasant |)oints of land on the seashore 
to which the Indians were accustomed to resort in the days of their su- 
premacy. A band of these Indians now encamps each season on Peaks' 
Island, where they make sale of their basket-work to visitors. There has 
been among them so large an intermixture with the P^rencli Canadians 
that many of them are now quite bleached out, and liave little of the 
Indian about them except the clinging to a wandering and vagabond life. 

We are now in the village of Knightville. Here, on tlie Cai)e Eliza- 
beth shore, some twenty-five or thirty years ago, George Kniglit, a shijv 
builder, built him a house and set nj) a ship-yard. At tliat time the land 
lay vacant; but a thriving village, with its shoi)s, its neat briok sdiool- 
house, and its church, has gradually grown up around the original man- 
sion of Mr. Knight, and now numbers several hundred inhabitants. Ship 
buililiug continues to be its )n"incij)al industry. 

Taking the left-hand road at the school-house, as we leave the vil- 
lage, we soon find ourselves eliinldng nieeting-liouse hill, the sunnnit of 
which commands a fine view of the city rising on tlie opposite shore. 
Here is the Methodist meeting-house, witli its adjoining graveyard. 

iStill bearing to the left we strike into the road which skirts the shore 
bordering on the entrance to the harbor, and come in view of tlie islands 
in the bay. If we turn aside down a cross road, a short way, we shall 



106 



POllTLAND AND VICINITY. 




come ujjon a fishermen's village, quite by itself on the seashore, with its 
boats and nets, and fish-houses on the beach. Cushing's Island lies just 
opposite, and there is a fine view here of passing shipping, and of the 
outer islands. 

Returning to the main road and driving on about a mile, with the 

sea constantly in 
view, we pass, on 
the left, the sum- 
mer cottage of 
Phillip H. Brown, 
Esq. Situated in 
the midst of well- 
kept grounds, on 
the edge of the 
cliff, it commands 
a fine view of the 
ocean and of the 
vessels passing in 
or out of the har- 
•'=' bor. 

Glen Cove.— Summer Residence of Phillip H. Brown. Not far bcVOnd 

we pass the entrance to Cape Cottage, a seaside hotel, built by John Neal, 
and for many years occupied as a place of summer resort. Adjoining it 
is the mansion of the late Colonel John Goddard, built of the native gray 
rock, and perched, like an old-time castle, on the toj) of the cliff, looking 
seaward. 

The road here winds pleasantly through a little green dell, and pre- 
sently comes out on the roadway leading to the new battery on Portland 
Head. This point is at the entrance to the ship-channel, along the shore 
of which we have been driving, and looks broad off to the ocean. The 
battery, not yet completed, consists of a series of earthworks which will 
cover by its guns all the approaches to the main channel leading into the 
harbor, and will prevent by its fire an enemy's fleet from taking up, un- 
opposed, a position behind Cushing's Island, from which to bombard Port- 
land or shell the shipping in the harbor. 

Close at hand, on the angle of the shore made by the ship-channel 
with the mainland, stands Portland Light. This was the first light-house 
erected on this coast. It Avas completed and first lighted January 10th, 
1791. It is a fixed light, one hundred and one feet above the sea level, 
and visible in clear weather seventeen miles. Here is also a fog-trumpet, 
which in thick weather utters its loud warning notes to vessels approach- 
ing the land. There is a deep chasm in the cliff, just beyond the light- 
house, caused by the Avearing away of a seam of trap-rock, into which 
the sea flows, leaving it dry at low tide. 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



107 



In a storm the waves break here inn2;nifiepntly, throwing their spray 
at times as liigli as the light-liouse. Tliis is a grand exliibition whieli Port- 
landers enjoy gratis, thougli not witliout j)eril. After a lieavy gale parties 
frequently drive out to the Light to see the waves dash upon the shore. 
A few years since two haekmen, who had driven ))arties here, ventured 
too far out upon the rocks, when a great wave leaped uj) and swej)t them 
off, and their mangled remains were only recovered, wedged in among 
the rocks, some days later. 

The shore here, which trends away to the southwest, is bold and 
rocky, deeply worn by the beating waves which roll in from the Atlan- 
tic. In a storm the roar of the angry sea is heard long before its white 




Portland LiRht. 

caps come in sight; the wind shrieks and bellows as though it were the 
mingled voices of ten thousand infuriated demons bent on tearing tlie 
ocean from its bed by its long white hair, flying in the gale; the long 
line of rocky shore is white with creamy foam and flying sj)ray ; the bil- 
lows run high on the l)road bosom of the ocean, and break over everv 
half-submerged reef and ledge; far out on the Green Islands they are 
madly tumbling on the rocks; Ram Island Leclgc is a line of leaping, 
foam-white water; Trundy's Reef, wlu're the Uohemian met her fate, 
shows white above the surf, like the hungry teeth of some sea-monster; 
while beyond, the waves dashing on Broad Cove Ledge leap lugh in air, 
great volumes of sea-foam, looking in the distance like angry spirits of 
the ocean striving to escape from its depths. Along the shore it is churn, 



108 



POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 



churn, churn among the rocks; leap, leap, leap against the cliffs, as if so 
' j^^j^^^ many foaming monsters were rushing 

from the sea upon the land, while the 
swirl and swash of the breakers in the 
chasms of the rocky wall end in spout- 
ing horns that throw their spray far over 
the shore. 

A short distance beyond the light- 
house, on the outer shore, stands the pic- 
turesque cottage of S, B. Beckett, Esq., 
built of the native rock, with a lofty, 
massive tower, commanding a wide view 
seaward. Here, on a calm summer af- 
ternoon, the scene is in strong contrast 
to that we have just described. The 
ocean gently laps the rough ledges at 
the base of the cliff; its bosom is dot- 
ted with the sails of passing vessels, with 
here and there the smoke of a steamer 
on the horizon, while at nightfall the 
Two- Lights, from the Mainland. great lautcms of the light-liouscs gleam 

out in the distance. Just beyond this point we pass Pond Cove, where 
the sea breaks almost into the road, and a ride of a few miles brings us 





Ocean House, Cape Elizabeth Coast. 

to the road leading off on the left to the Cap 

Lights, known as the Two-Lights. Here are 

iron light-houses, fifty-four feet high, one hundn 

and seventy-two feet above the level of the sea, 

built in 1874 to replace the old towers at a cost 

of $30,000. Five hundred sail of vessels have been counted at one time 

in view from the summits of these lights. Near at liand is the cove where 



rORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



1U9 



the steamship Bohemian, of the Allan Line of Liverpool steamers, came 
ashore some years since, and her cargo was strewn upon the beach, caus- 
ing a novel scene of wreckage, the inhabitants turning out by hundreds 
to share in the spoil. This is a favorite point for picnic parties, who 
feast on cunncrs caught from the shore. 

A short drive brings us to the Ocean House. This hotel, kept for 
many years by J. P. Chamberlin, is admirably situated for all the pur- 
poses of life by the seaside. The shore here is so fanned by the ocean 
breezes that the atmosphere is cool in the hottest summer day. There is 
an excellent beach at hand, with facilities for bathiuLr, wliilo the sea view 




Bird Shooting on the Spurwink. 

is unsurpassed. The house will accommodate from one hundred and thirty 
to one hundred and fifty boarders, and is always full in the season. It 
has long been a favorite resort of gentlemen from Canada, who come here 
with their families to enjoy the benefits of sea-bathing, in which they have 
great faith. The house is also largely patronized by Americans, and is 
well kept. 

Driving on a few miles we cross the iSpurwink Hiver, wiiKling through 
its marshes, and turn down a road, on the left, to the Spurwink House, 
a sort of sportsmen's lodge, where gunners resort in the season to shoot 
coots, plovers, and other sea-fowl, (iood fishing is also to be had here. 
The lioiise is situated on the Imiik of the riviT, in a ple:is:iiit spot. 



110 



POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 



A short distance from this point we drive down a farm-road, through 
a farm-yard, to Higgins's Beach, at the mouth of the Spurwink. It was 
near this spot that our first settlers, George Cleeves and Richard Tucker, 
first established themselves in 1630, but were driven off by John Winter, 
the agent of the patentees, and subsequently settled on the Neck, now 
Portland. Here is a fine beach, with the surf rolling in magnificently. 
The spot is secluded and beautiful, and affords a fine site for summer 
cottages. 

The next points of interest are the Scarboro' Beaches, where are sit- 
uated the Atlantic House and the Kirkwood House. The one entrance 




Midwinter Scene. — A Sleighride to Scarboro' Beach. 

which leads to both these houses is through a fine evergreen grove, largely 
composed of grand old pines. Turning to the left, Avhere the road divides, 
we soon reach the Kirkwood House, kept by Otis Kaler and Son. This 
house will accommodate about one hundred guests. The rooms in the 
main house are unusually spacious ; and the cupola commands wide views 
of the sea, also of liichmond's Island, Old Orchard, and the White Moun- 
tains. It has a detached building, in which are many of the sleeping-rooms, 
with a large hall for amusements. Surf-bathing may be enjoyed on the 
beach in front of the house. The Messrs. Kaler are experienced land- 
lords, and their house is a favorite with many regular visitors to the sea- 
side. It has in past years, when kept open in tlie winter, been a resort 
of sleighing-parties from Portland. 



rOUTLASD AM) VK'ISITY. 



Ill 



The right-hand road carries the visitor to the Atlantic House, a favor- 
ite hotel, 
long koj)t 
by Mr. S. 
B. Gunni- 
son. It will 
accommo- 
date from 
seventy- 
five to one 
hundred 
boarders, 
and is al- 
ways full 
in the sea- 
son. It has 
a splendid 

beach, with tiue facilities for sea-bathing, and having also a pine grove of 
twenty acres, with beautiful walks, it combines the attractions of the sea- 




Kirkwood House, Scarboro' Beach. 




fe::i7^ 



Atlantic Houso, Scarboro' Beach. 

""^^f^'-^^- ■'^'" -^^*mm" •'*-' shore and the country. Tlio re- 

mains of an old fort are found here, dating from the tiinos of Indian war- 



112 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



fare. Many visitors return here season after season, and are much attached 
to the house and its popular landlord. 

One mile farther brings us to that ancient summer-resort known as 
Front's Neck. We ai-e now on historic ground, this having been the point 
earliest settled in the town of Scarboro'. As early as 1633 Thomas Cam- 
mock, the first proprietor, had a house here, the cellar of which is still 
pointed out, as is also the site of the garrison where, in 1703, eight men 
drove off a besieging force of five hundred French and Indians. 

The Neck forms a peninsula, with the ocean on one side and a broad 
estuary on the other, on the opposite shore of which lies Old Orchard 
Beach, with its many hotels, in full view. For many years this Neck 




Prout's Neck. 

has been a favorite resort of picnic parties from Portland, Saco, Scar- 
boro', Gorham, and other towns. It was long the property of the late 
Thomas Libby, whose family accommodates transient visitors by cooking 
the fish caught by them off the rocks. Two of his sons, Messrs. B. and 
Silas Libby, now keep boarding-houses for summer visitors, while at the 
old family mansion, the daughters of Mr. Thomas Libby, assisted by a 
niece and Mr. George Milliken, accommodate picnic parties and transient 
visitors. 

There is a fine sea-beach on the Neck; also a bold, rocky shore, com- 
manding wide ocean views. The shore is much resorted to by gunners, 
for the shooting of sea-fowl, which are often seen floating in large flocks 
on the surface of the sea. Scarboro' is famous for its marshes. The In- 
dian name was Owascoag, or "place of much grass," to which these ex- 
tensive marshes fnirlv entitle it. 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



113 



ALONG FALMOUTH FORESIDE. 

One of tlie most attniclive drivt's in the vicinity of tlie city is throuffh 
Falmouth, along the shore of the bay. Passing through Washington street, 
with Munjoy's Hill on one hand and Back Cove on the other, (of which 
latter, and the opposite shore of Deering, it gives a commanding view), 
and crossing Tukey's Bridge, which spans the entrance to the cove, we 
enter the village of East Deering. Ship-building is the principal industry 
here, and a prosperous village, with a neat hall, has sprung up within a 
few years past. 

Turning to the riirlit soon after crossing the bridge we drive through 
the principal street 
of the village, lined 
with neat dwelling- 
houses, and present- 
ly come in sight of 
the United States 
Marine Hospital, sit- 
uated on Martin's 
Point, at the mouth 
of the Presum])scot, 
— here a wide estu- 
ary, opening to the 
sea. The hospital 
is a finely propor- 
tioned edifice, built 
of brick, and stands 
on an elevated site, 
overlooking the city, 
the bay with its is- 
lands, and tlie open 

sea in the distance. United state* Marme Hospital. 

It is a healthful and attractive spot, and the extensive grounds afford 
ample sj)ace for out-of-door recreation. 

Crossing Martin's Point Bridge, which sj)ans the Presumpscot and 
commands a beautiful view of the bay, we climb the hill and enter the 
road which skirts the "Foreside" of Falmouth. The spot we liave now 
reached is one of the three points on which the earliest settU-ments witc 
made within the territory of ancient Falmouth. Wliile Winter was juir- 
suing his commercial speculations on the Spurw ink, and Cleeves aiul Tucker 
were laying the foundations of a settlement on the Neck, Arthur M:ick- 
worth was making for himself a home on this point. With the island 




114 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



opposite, it afterwards bore his name ; now corrupted, as applied to the 
island, into Mackay. Mackworth was in possession here as early as 1632. 
He had a grant of five hundred acres from Sir Ferdinando Gorges, and 
was one of the most respectable of the early settlers, serving as a magis- 
trate for many years. 

The road here runs for miles along the shore, which has many pic- 
turesque features. The seaward view is in wide contrast to that from 
the Ocean Road on the Cape. There the broad Atlantic rolls in and 
breaks upon the shore ; here the calm waters of Casco Bay, sheltered by 
the long line of outlying islands, smile in the sunshine, apparently as se- 




A Farm Scene in East Deering. 

cure from the ocean's turbulence as an inlnnd lake. Off the Point lies 
Mackay's Island; just beyond are the Two Brothers; and still farther 
out. Clapboard Island, now unhappily denuded of its forest growth, lying 
low on the surface of the Avater, like a dismasted wreck. 

Turning down a road on the right we enter a projection of the coast, 
making out into the bay, on the shore of wliieli Cliarles W. Gcddard, 
Esq., Postmaster of Portland, has an elegant summer residence. Just 
across a little cove, on a narrow point of land, is Thornhurst Farm, the 
summer residence of General John M. Brown. This is a stock-farm, with 
si)acious barns and ont-buildings, the General being engaged in the breed- 



l'()irri..\\l> AM) VKIMIY. 



iir. 



ing of fine stock. A few years ago he found this point of land a rocky 
pasture, but has now made it a beautiful s|iot. Its natural attractions 
are very great, being an elevated neck of lantl between two ])retty coves, 
the shore fringed with trees, and looking out upon the calm waters of 
the bay. On a reef a short distance from the shore the seals have their 
breeding-ground, being undisturbed in this (|uiet spot. 

This projection of the shore, on which are situated these two sum- 
mer residences, is a j)oint of historic interest. There is little now in its 
solitude and seclusion to remind one that it has been the site of a con- 
siderable settlement; the scene of peaceful conferences with the Indians; 




View on the Presumpscot. 

of their savage attack, and the stout defence of the white man. Yet this 
is New Casco, a settlement of much importance in the history of ancient 
F"almouth. After the peace of 1698 a fort was erected here in ITCO, as 
a trading-post to accommodate the Indians, in pursuance of the late treaty. 
The settlement on the Neck, where Portland now stands, then known as 
Casco, had been destroyed in 1090, and was now desolate. The scttle- 
iiiciit here was call New Casco, to distinLTuish it from the Neck, where 
Fort Loyal had stood, which was then called Old Casco. In 1703 Gov- 
ernor T)udley held a conference with the Indians at the Fort here, to 
which came, well arnic<l and gaily painted, the chiefs of the Norridge- 
wock, Pcniili^ciit. 1'cii."ci.m|<, /\m('i-i>;coc'irin, an<l l*e<|iiiket t tribes; those 



110 POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 

of the Araeriscoggin tribe were accompanied by about two hundred and 
fifty warriors in sixty-five canoes. The Indians pi'ofessed the most peace- 
ful intentions, and celebrated the occasion with singing, dancing, and loud 
acclamations of joy ; yet Avithin two months " the whole eastern country 
was in a conflagration, no house standing or garrison unattacked." 

The fort here at New Casco became the central point of defense for 
all the settlements upon Casco Bay, and the center of the scattered po))u- 
lation of Falmouth. In 1703 the fort was attacked by five hundred French 
and Indians, and was on the point of being captured, Avhen it was reliev- 
ed by the arrival of a province armed vessel, which shattered the enemy's 
navy of two hundred canoes, and compelled the Indians to make a hasty 
retreat. The fort was occupied through the war, which continued until 
1713. It was demolished by order of the Government of Massachusetts 
in 1716. 

Returning to the main road, a short distance beyond New Casco we 
pass the head of Mill Creek, where a mill was established for a hundred 
and forty years. Pause here and admire the beauty of the spot, where 
the cliff, clothed with evergreens, overhangs the still water of the pool. 

Driving on, past old farm-houses, with their big, square chimneys, al- 
ways keeping the bay and the islands in sight, we come to a rocky hill, 
from the summit of which may be obtained a magnificent view of the 
bay, looking off towards Cousins Island and Broad Sound. It seems more 
like a Scotch lake than a part of the wide ocean. Inland the eye sweeps 
over a wide extent of cultivated country, presenting a beautiful landscape. 

One may drive for miles farther along this shore, under the shade of 
old elms, and past many beautiful spots well suited for summer residences, 

TO EVERGEEEN CEMETERY AND PRIDE'S BRIDGE. 

Turning now from the seashore, let us drive inland, amid more rural 
scenes. We may take the horse-cars in Market Square for a trip to Ever- 
green Cemetery, or drive out over the shell road. Passing down Green 
street we come to Deering's Bridge, which spans the creek running up 
from Back Cove and forms a dam affording tidal water-power for a grist- 
mill. On the left, across the mill-pond, are Deering's Oaks, and on the 
right, the cove, with Munjoy forming the opposite shore. Kennebec 
street comes in here at the Portland end of the bridge, running along on 
the made-land on the shore of the cove. 

A project is on foot, among the owners of land on the shore of the 
cove in Deering, to build a boulevard, one hundred feet wide, around 
the shore, from a point near Deering's Bridge to Tukey's Bridge. The 
plan is to exclude horse-cars and omnibuses from this road and make it 
a pleasui-e-drive. The land on the inner side of the road would be laid 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



117 




Deering's Bridge, from Kennebec Street. 

out in buikling-lots, on which fine resi- 
dences might be erected ; the enter side 
being kept open to afford a view of the 
cove. The space between the road and 




the 



shore could be graded up :n.d srt with trees, and lai<l .>iit with walk> 



118 



POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 



and furnished with seats. At Tukey's Bridge there would be a dam, with 
tide gates, allowing the flood tide to fill the bay, but retaining enough 
water at ebb tide to cover the flats. It is proposed to put the construc- 
tion and maintenance of the boulevard into the hands of a commission ; 
the town to issue bonds to meet the expenditure. Whatever may be the 
fate of this project it is evident at a glance that there are great possi- 
bilities for magnificent improvements along the shore of the cove, and 
on the neighboring heights, which afford fine sites for elegant residences. 
Time, and a denser population, will produce great changes here, convert- 
ing the solitary 



shore and un- 
fragrant flats 
into a scene of 
beauty. 

After cross- 
ing the bridge 
Ave observe the 
road on the left 
w h i c h runs 
past the man- 
sion of the late 
James Deering, 
Esq. Situated 
in a retired 
nook, in the 
midst of green 
fields and orch- 
ards, and sur- 
rounded with 
graceful elms, 
this old-time 
mansion has an 
air of quiet and 




Residence of Joshua S. Palmer. 



repose, of mellowed old age and peaceful beauty, that charms every be- 
holder. The old oaks that linger in these broad fields have witnessed the 
events of two hundred years, and could tell of the great fight in which 
Major Church whipped the Indians, and saved the little village fi'om 
slaughter. The land is now improved as a hay-farm, with many barns 
scattered over its fields. In the month of June, when the grass is green 
and dotted with golden dandelions, and the elms are in the freshness of 
their foliage, these fields present a charming j)icture of rural beauty 

Just beyond the Deering Mansion, in a secluded corner of the city, 
which here meets the Deering line, are several fine residences, of which 
we select for illustration the picturesque cottage of J. S. Palmer, Esq. 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



119 



Contimiiiif; on the iiiaiii road we pass tliront;h the litlk- village at 
the "Point," where is situated the extensive establishment of the Port- 
land Stone Ware Company, for the manufacture of drain-pipe, vases, and 
stoneware. The company have a wharf on the shore of the cove, and 
ship their goods directly from the manufactory. 

Driving on through tlie Deering hinds, lying Miiim|)rove(l on either 
hand, and dotted with old oaks and walnuts, which every autumn attract 
the assaults of schoolboys, eager to gather the crops of nuts and acorns, 
we come to the residence of William E. Gould, Esq., situated behind its 
grove of oaks and maples, on the shore of the cove. This is an elegant 
and costly mansion, with improved grounds, retired from the road. 

Adjoining 
this estate is that 
of J. S. Kicker, 
Esq., with gar- 
den and orchard 
extending to the 
shore of the cove. 
The mansion is 
finely situated in 
the midst of orna- 
mented grounds. 
Next we come 
to the residence 
of Captain J. B. 
Coyle, the Nes- 
tor of steamboat 
navigation in our 
waters. This 
mansion, situated 
in the midst of 

extensive grounds, well deserves to be styled palatial. The brick house, 
under the elms, on the opposite side of the road, is the residence of II. 
C2. Wheeler, Escj. On the summit of the commanding elevation beyond 
is the home of John M. Adams, Esq., editor of the Eastern Argus. Next 
to the estate of Captain Coyle are the extensive grounds <tf Warren Spar- 
row, Escj., on which he has a neat cottage residence. 

As we enter the village of Woodford's Corner we pass the residence 
of Samuel Jordan, Esq., long resident here, and formerly Postmaster of 
Portland. 

The village is entirely surrounded by railroad tracks, the Maine Cen- 
tral running on one side, and the Portland and Rochester on the other, 
and both crossing the main street, while the track of the horse-cars run 




120 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



through it. The 
"Corner" itself, 
being cut up in 
this way, and 
built without 
much regard to 
regularity, does 
not present a 
very attractive 
appearance, but 
there are many 
very ]ileasant 
locations on the 
streets leading 
off from it on 
cither hand. On 
Spring street, 
Avhich runs up 
the higher land, 
on the left, is a 
very handsome 
Congregational 

bell in the tower presented by l^i^^^K*> church with a 

the Misses Deering, for whose family the new town was named when it 





Cove Cottage. — Summer Residence of Dr. Tewksbury. 

was set off from Westbrook a few years since. On Ocean street, which 



PORTI.AM) AM) VICIMTY 



121 



turns off around the 
cove on the right, is 
.1 well-proportioned 
njitl substantial brick 
school-house, of two 
stories, in which are 
maintained graded 
schools. Woodford's 
Corner is the most 
rapidly growing su- 
burb of Portland. 
Since the fire of '6G 
many new streets 
have been laid out 
up the high land, on 
the one hand, and 
down the slope to- 
wards the cove, on 
the other, and have 
been extensively -q 
built u]ion. The i 
population has larg- "s 
ely increased, and ° 
the ready access to 3 
the city furnished ^ 
by the horse-rail- 
road, and the pleas- 
ant ' lay of the land,' 
commanding fine 
views of the city 
and the bay, must 
continue to attract 
here a desirable 
class of residents. 

Following Ocean 
street, along a road 
lined with elms, and 
where, through the 
sweeping away of 
roadside fences, the 
cultivated fields bor- 
der close ui)on the 
sidewalk, we come 




122 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



to the residence of Dr. Samuel H. Tewksbury. The view from this point, 
— of the city, rising on the peninsula across the cove, with its church- 
spires and the dome of City Hall, — is one of great beauty. This road 
has many attractions as a quiet drive amid rural scenes, with the city 
always in full view. One may drive on, past Graves's Hill, from the top 
of which a more extended prospect presents itself to the eye, and return 
to Portland over Tukey's Bridge. 

Continuing on our way through Woodford's Corner, we pass the sta- 
tion of the Maine Central Railroad, where passengers may leave the train 
and enter the city by the horse-cars, thus saving the long distance down 

town from the 
station in the 
city. Many also 
prefer to take 
the trains going 
eastward here, 
coming out on 
the horse-cars 
from the city. 

Following 
the track of the 
liorse-railroad 
we turn into 
Pleasant street, 
near the Maine 
Central station. 
This is a hand- 
some aveniie, 
half a mile in 
length, lined 
with gardens 
and a number 
of fine residen- 

Entrance to Evergreen Cemetery. CCS. At itS lieaCl, 

a little to the left, is the Presurapscot Trotting Park. Here is an excel- 
lent half-mile track, with extensive grounds, enclosed by a high fence. All 
the appointments of the Park, as a race-track, are first-class. There are 
covered seats for spectators, Avith a restaurant at hand, and extensive ac- 
commodations for horses. Trotting matches take ])lace here in the season, 
drawing large crowds of spectators from the city. The Maine State Ag- 
ricultural Fair is also held here for a term of three years from 1875, and 
there are within the grounds every accommodation for watering and shel- 
tering stock, and also a l.irge two-story building for the display of ngri- 




POIiTLAND AND VICIMTY. 



Vl'^ 



cultural implements. The Park Mouse stands near tlir futraiicc of llic 
grounils. 

Pui'suiiig our way to Evoij^iH'cn CVMiu'tcry, we turn to tlic rij^ht, 
at the head of Pleasant street, an<l drive alone; the road over Stevens' 
Plains. It extends for a mile or more over u level, sandy surface, lincil 
in part by umbrageous elms and maples, beneath which nestle the old- 
time mansions, mingled with more pretentious residences. Among the 
more noticable dwellings here are the twin liouses of Messrs. Grenville 
M. and Frank G. Stevens, and the residence of Kufus Dunham, P]sq. 

On the right is a tract of woodland, nearly half a mile square, in 
the center of which Hon. F. O. J. Smith has his "Forest Home." The 
mansion lies secluded from the road, in this shady English-park-like es- 
tate, through which runs a pleasant drive to the lower road. 

These plains were formerly the scene of "General Musters," where 
the 'old militia' _ - . 

disported them- 
selves in gor- 
geous uniforms, 
and engaged in 
sham tights in- 
volving a great 
waste of gun- 
powder, though 
no loss of blood. 
This brings us 
to the entrance 
of Evergreen 
Cemetery, situ- 
ated ab(flit two 
and a lialf miles 
from the city. 
As long ago as — . . ^ . _ 

1851 it was felt ^ -.— ■ -=--'^-"=^'"-'^' 

that the city The Tombs. Evergreen 

had outgrown the two narrow graveyards within its limits, and tin- mod- 
ern taste for ornament, beauty, and retiuement in the last resting-place of 
the (lead demanded a larger and more secluded cemetery. Accordingly 
in 185*2, largely through the instniinentality of our fellow citizen, S. I>. 
Beckett, Es(i., who selected this heaiitit'ul spot, a tract of tifty-live acres, 
covered with a various growth, but «liieHy evergreen, and of suHicient di- 
versity of surface, was i)urcha.sed l)y the city and laitl out under the aji- 
propriate name of Evergreen Cemetery. Ily subsetpjent purchases of sur- 
rounding territory it now comprises between two hundred and fifty and 





124 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



three hundred acres. A considerable portion of recent purchases is still 
unimproved. Lots of about fifteen by fifteen feet in the older portion of 
the ground are sold to citizens at twenty dollars each, while similar lots 
in the new ground are held at fifty dollars. The cemetery is in charge 




A View In Evergreen Cemetery. 

of a commission of three citizens, with a resident superintendent. The 
latter office has for some years been filled by Mr. Charles Ramsay, to 
whose good taste many of the improvements are due. The interments 
in the cemetery during the past year have been at the rate of one each 
day. 

The entrance is through an avenvie bordered with shade trees and 
arbor vitie hedges. On the right, as you enter the grounds, is the large 
receiving-tomb, a turf-covered mound, with granite front. In the same 
direction, farther on, is the little Westbrook Cemetery, — the boundary 
marked only by vine-covered iron arches. Just beyond this enclosure, 
near the boundary-line of the cemetery, is the most costly and elegant 
monument in the grounds, that of the late Samuel Rumery; it is of Ital- 
ian marble, and is designed with great artistic taste and executed with 
much skill. Not far from this point, in a westerly direction, is the monu- 
ment of the historian of Portland, the late Hon. William Willis ; and still 



rOKTLAND AND VICINITY. 



Vlb 











., rf.-i.vSkS? 


"^.> 








\ ■> . 


.t :. ■ 






Tw ^ ■ 


f'A 


^s^. 


r..^ 










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f**!*^'' 


Vi.. 












d;' • 














Viewi in Evofgrccn Comctcry. 



126 POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 



farther on in the same general direction, down the slope, lies our late la- 
mented Senator, the Hon. "William Pitt Fessenden. The rapid descent of 
the land, at a point a little beyond this, affords opportunity for a line of 
tombs with massive granite fronts, the tops of which, on a level with the 
upper walks, are grass-covered plots. 

Below the tombs, some distance down the slope, are the ponds, bor- 
dered with seats, spanned with rustic bridges, the shore adorned with 
rustic arches and arbors. On the surface of the ponds float swans and 
ducks, the feeding of which is a delight to children. 

On the left of the entrance is Evergreen Circle, a ring of lots neatly 
laid out, with a circular enclosure in the center. The prevailing style of 
enclosure is simply a granite base, with turf-covered mound. There are 
many elegant monuments in the grounds, and corner-lots are devoted to 
flowers and shrubbery. Some of the walks wander beneath dark shadows 
of evergreens into secluded spots, where the thoughtful mind may muse 
on the transitory nature of earthly life ; and others lie out in the broad 
sunshine, where may be seen the distant mountains pointing like faith 
to the skies. One may wander long through these by-paths, attracted 
by the decorations and the flowers which affection has lavished on the 
dead, as well as by the shrubbery, and the noble old trees lifting their 
heads high up into the blue air, and affording homes to the song-birds 
which build among their branches — a life soaring above death. 

The beauty of these grounds, where the harmonies of art are blend- 
ed with the wildness of nature, sheds the radiance of a heavenly light 
upon the gloom of death. Thousands come here — particularly on Sun- 
days — for a quiet walk among the blended beauties of nature and art, 
where all the associations are conducive to meditative thought. 

In addition to Evergreen Cemetery Portland has four other burying- 
grounds. Of Eastern Cemetery, the oldest of all, we have already given 
some account. Western Cemetery, lying on the slope of Bramhall's Hill, 
within the limits of the city, comj^rises about fifteen acres, and was laid 
out in 1829. One of the most conspicuous monuments here is that to 
Chief Justice Prentiss Mellen, erected in 1850 by the Bar of the State. 
In 1858 sixty acres were purchased in Cape Elizabeth, near Vaughan's 
Bridge, about a mile and a half from the center of the city, and laid out 
as "Forest City Cemetery." It affords cheaper accommodations for the 
dead than Evergreen Cemetery.- "Mount Calvary Cemetery," comprising 
six acres, in a secluded spot in Cape Elizabeth, about two miles from the 
center of the city, is the last resting-place of the Catholics. It has a neat 
chapel, and was consecrated by Bishop Bacon to the burial of persons be- 
longing to his communion. 

The village of Stevens' Plains, with its broad, level streets, and side- 
walks shaded with umbrageous majoles and elms, has a quiet and rural 



POIiTLAXD AS I) VKIMTY 



\'ll 




128 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



beauty. Its chief ornament is the Universalist Church, a very tasteful 
structure, built in 1867, at a cost of about $14,000. The front elevation 
is in the Gothic style, with a tower at the corner sui-raounted by a sjiire 
rising to a height of one hundred and ten feet. The auditorum is forty- 
five by seventy-five feet, containing eighty pews, in chestnut, trimmed with 
black walnut. The ceiling is open, and handsomely frescoed in blue and 
gold. The windows are of stained glass, admitting " a dim religious light," 
and a gallery over the entrance affords accommodation for the choir. The 
general effect is exceedingly neat and tasteful. 

The church stands at the entrance to the grounds of Westbrook Semi- 




Charles Ramsay's Nurseries. 

nary. This institution, incorporated in 1831, was the first seminary of 
learning established in New England under the patronage of the Univer- 
salist denomination. The seminary building was erected in 1834, at a cost 
of 17,000. Tlie first term commenced June 9, 1834, with Rev. Samuel 
Brimblecom, Principal, and Rev. Alvin Dinsmore, Assistant. The insti- 
tution has since been under the charge of a number of able teachers, and 
includes among its graduates many who are doing good service in the 
various walks of life. Tlie present Principal is G. M. Bodge, A. M. To 
meet the need of boarding-houses Goddard Hall was built in 1859, and 
Ilersey Hall in 1869. These are large brick edifices, connected by a din- 



rOUTLASn AM) VK'IXITY. 



lli'J 



ing-hnll, and take their names from henefioiaries of the institution, who 
contributed hirgely toward tlie funds for their erection. The institution 
has extensive grounds, handsomely hiid out, and all the surrouiidiiiLCS are 
conducive to studious habits and good moral deportment on the part <>f 
the jiupils. It ] provides two courses in the Collegiate Department, and 
confers the degree of Laureate of Arts upon all young ladies who suc- 
cessfully pass examination in a classical course, and Laureate of Science 
in the scientific course. In the Academic Department diplomas are grant- 
ed in two courses, English and College Preparatory. 

On the lower road are thr Nurseries of Mr. Charles Ramsav, where 




A Farm Scene near Pride's Bridge. 

may be seen an extensive collection of flowering i)lants, well worthy of 
a visit. 

PassinfT on through the village, and turning to tiu' left at Morrill's 
Corner, past the fine residence, with cultivated grounds, of Charles E. 
Morrill, Esq., a drive of a mile or two brings us to Pride's IJridge, on 
the Presumpscot. The river is here spanned by a neat iron bridge, from 
the middle of which may be obtained a view of the Presiunpscot, which, 
for quiet beauty, is rarely surjtassed. The j.lacid stream glides smt)othly 
between green banks bordered by graceful elms, which \\rv rellecled in 
its mirror-like surface. 



130 



POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 



Crossing the bridge, and turning into the low road on the left, one 
may enjoy a very pleasant drive along a secluded road which borders the 
river. At a point on the road near Cumberland Mills there was, a few 
years ago, an extensive land-sink, — several acres of high land subsiding 
into the clayey foundation which was forced out into the bed of the river, 
changing its course. This sink is a natural phenomenon well worthy the 
inspection of the curious as well as the geologist. 

At Cumberland Mills is a prosperous village, built up by the paper- 
mill which improves the water-power there. 

The return to the city may be made by the Saccarappa road, thus 
completing a wide circuit. 




roirn.ASD and vicimty. 1-il 



RAILROAD EXCURSIONS. 



By the extension of its railroad system Portland has become a con- 
venient ])oint from which to make short excursions to summer resorts, 
both on the seashore and at the mountains. Summer visitors may make 
trips of a day to Old Orchard, Lake Sebacro, Lake Winnepesaukee, or the 
Crawford Notch of the White Mountains. The scenery along these va- 
rious routes is attractive and varied enough to suit every taste. Let us 
turn first, as nearest at hand, 

TO OLD ORCHARD BEACH, BY THE BOSTON AND MAINE. 

This famous beach, one of the finest on the coast, has become, by 
the opening of the Boston and Maine extension, one of the most frequent- 
ed of our watering-places. The distance by rail from the city is eleven 
and three-fourth miles. It is a semi-aqueous region through which the 
road runs, crossing marsh and river and creek. Half a mile distant from 
Blue Point station, which is about nine miles out, lies Pine Point, where 
a number of our citizens have built summer cottages, and a lioarding-house 
accommodates summer visitors. The road skirts the seashore, and the sta- 
tion at Old Orchard is close upon the beach, with the surf rolling in al- 
most at one's feet. The beach is ten miles long from Black Point to the 
Saco River. It is evenly inclined, and perfectly safe, there being no de- 
ceptive holes or rocks. Even at high tide there is ample room for car- 
riages abreast, and at low tide it is one of the widest and grandest driv- 
ing and promenade avenues to be found anywhere. It lies in a deep 
indentation of the .shore, forming nearly a semi-circle. On the right, 
Fletcher's Neck makes one arm, extending far out into the sea, at the 
mouth of the Saco, dotted with the white buildings of "The Pool" at 
its extremity. On the left, the other arm of the semi-circle is formed by 
Prout's Neck, sweeping out into the sea, with Stratton Ishuitl oil against 
it. Between the.se two encircling points sweeps the grand beach, smooth 
as a floor, hard almost as a pavement, with tlie waves breaking along its 
whole extent in never-ceasing foam and roar. 

Near the station is a pine grove, s]iriiiging out of the sand, and af- 
fording agreeable shade from the burning sunshine. In tiiis grove picnie 
parties encamp; and in tiie season a drive along the road which runs 
throu<'-h the middle of it reveals a lively scene, a seaside festival : parties 



132 



PORTLAND AND VICINITY. 



lunching under the trees, others strolling about, others again dancing to 
lively music, while mountebanks and peddlers furnish fun and bargains 
for the crowd. 

One who jorefers a life in the woods to the dark sea-foam, can turn 
from the shore to the sylvan retreat of Fern Park, in the rear of the 
Old Orchard House, — a grove improved by the proprietor for the pleas- 
ure of his guests. Much taste has been disj^layed in laying out paths and 
placing rustic seats and arbors on this wooded hill-top, which commands, 
through the opening trees, a fine view of the sea. The pines and spruces 
have flowered into poetry, choice descriptive verses being afiixed to their 
stems ; a ramble through these shaded paths, carpeted with the dry needles 



• i-e iljj 1,1.,^ 



^^^^^43fcJ*4tM^-r' ^"^ r^ 



A"^ ': 'i^ 



-^^ 







' ^^, J^.>A' 




&r:gi 




Old Orchard Beach. 



of the pines, is like reading a pastoral poem amid the scenes which it de- 
scribes. The ornamentation of this park is the work of the late Albert 
H. Bull, of Vermont, whose noble love of nature caused him to spend 
much wealth upon this lovely spot. 

Old Orchard is abundantly supplied with hotels. Tlic Old Orchard 
House, destroyed by fire last year, has been rebuilt by its proprietor, Mr. 
E. C. Staples, on a finer site and a larger plan. The new house stands 
on a high knoll, a little south of the old site. It has a sea-frontage of 
three hundred feet, with an ell one hundred feet deep, and is four and 
five stories high, finished throughout Avith modern improvements. The 
Ocean House is also a large and well-kept hotel, capable of accommodar 



roirri.AM) am> vkinity. 133 



ting four or five hundred guests, and is furnislied witli a nuisii--hall and 
other attractions for the amusement of siinnncr boarders. On the Ijeacii, 
below the railroad track, is a crowd of smaller hotels and boarding-houses, 
from the doors of some of which one can almost step into the sea when 
the tide is up. 

It has long been a custom with tht- people living in the vicinity to 
visit the beach on the 26th of June, for the jiurpose of bathing in the 
sea, which is supjtosed to possess special healing (pialitii'S on that particu- 
lar day. The country people come ilown to the shore in wagons and 
buggies and carryalls, — fathers, mothers, boys, girls, and babies, young 
folks, old folks, lovers, and young married couples, — all intent on enjoy- 
ing the healing iuHuence of the water. On these occasions the grove and 
the beach presents a lively spectacle. 

About half a mile beyond Old Orchard, with a separate station, lie 
the grounds of the ]Methodist Camp-Meeting Association. These are situ- 
ated in the midst of an evergreen grove, where a natural hollow forms a 
noble amphitheater. Here seats are placed beneath the trees, with a grand 
stand for the preachers, which commands the whole ground. Around this 
amphitheater a "camp-meeting city" has grown uj), laid out in avenues 
lined with neat little cottages. There is abundance of fresh water, and 
every facility to render the place, as is contemplated, the most extensive 
and popular camp-meeting grotmd in the country. The Xational Camp- 
Meeting and the National Temperance Camp-Meeting are held here in 
the month of August; ami also, at a later season, the Methodist District 
Camp-Meeting. 

A charter has been obtained for a company, under the name of the 
Old Orchai'd Beach Railroad Company, with anihority to construct a rail- 
way from Saco Ferry to Blue Point, in Scarboro', with a capital of !?50,- 
000. The purj)ose is to run a line of horse or steam cars along the whole 
length of the beach, thus making all points easily accessible, and offering 
to visitors a shore tri]i on the very edge of the breaking l»illows. 

TO THE INTEUIOU OF THE STATE, HV TIIK MA INK CKN'ntAL. 

This combination of railroads commands all parts of Maine, the Port- 
land and Kennebec branch running through Brunswick (the seat of Bow- 
doin College) to Augusta, the ca])ital of the State, and the upper towns 
on the Kennebec as far as Skowhegan ; the Penobscot line extending 
through Lewiston, one of the leading manufacturing cities of Maine, and 
Waterville, to Bangor, where connection is made with the Bangor and 
Piscataquis Railroad, — which gives approadi to the woods of Nortlu^rn 
Maine, — and with the Eurt)pean and North Aiiieiican Railroad, wliieh 
extends as far east as Halifax, N. S. 



134 PORTLAND AND VIC IN IT Y. 



ALONG THE SEASHORE, BY THE EASTERN RAILROAD. 

The Eastern Railroad, or perhaps we should rather say the Portland, 
Saco and Portsmouth Railroad, which is leased by the Eastern, runs through 
the shore towns of Maine to Portsmouth, N. H., and gives access to York 
Harbor, the grand beaches of Hampton and Rye, and the famous Isles of 
Shoals, the latter of which can be reached from Portland in an afternoon 
ride to Portsmouth, and an hour's sail by steamer from that city. 

TO LAKE SEBAGO AND THE CRAWFORD NOTCH BY THE PORTLAND 

AND OGDENSBURG. 

Turning now from the seashore the visitor may enjoy a trip to the 
lakes and mountains. A ride of four hours on the Portland and Ogdens- 
burg Railroad will carry him to the famous Notch of the White Moun- 
tains, through some of the most sublime scenery in the country. This 
railroad is peculiarly a Portland enterprise, designed to open a new and 
shorter route to the great west. It extends from Portland, by way of 
Sebago Lake and the valley of the Saco River, through the Notch of the 
White Mountains, thence via St. Johnsbury, "Vermont, through the La- 
moille and Missisquoi Valleys to the foot of Lake Champlain. It was a 
bold project to push a railway through the narrow gateway of the White 
Mountains, but under the energetic management of General Samuel J. 
Anderson, President of the company, and the engineering skill of John 
F. Anderson, Esq., Chief Engineer, it has been successfully accomplished, 
and the enterprise has opened up one of the most attractive pleasure- 
routes in the country. Indeed we know of no other railroad, of similar 
length, which commands such romantic and beautiful views. The White 
Mountains, with all their stupendous scenery, are brought within a day's 
excursion of Portland, so that parties leaving in the morning can visit 
the Notch and arrive home at an early hour in the evening. 

From Portland to Sebago Lake, a distance of about seventeen miles, 
the road runs through the fine farming towns of Deering, Westbrook, 
Windham, Gorham, and Standish, and there is no other railroad running 
out of the city which in the same distance passes through so much beau- 
tiful scenery. Orchards, green fields, and patches of forest diversify the 
landscape, which stretches aAvay with undulating surface, everywhere show- 
ing signs of fertility and cultivation. The falls on the Presumpscot add 
an interesting feature to the scene ; and in Windham a glimpse is caught 
of the old brown farm-house in which Governor John A. Andrew was 
born. 

Sebago Lake is a fine sheet of water, fourteen miles in length by 



PORTLAND ASn VKJISITY. lof) 



eight in width. The road skirts the shore, and at the station a steamer 
is in readiness to take passengers across the lake and tlirough tin- tor- 
tuous windings of Songo River, — a charming sail, — into the lock, and 
up the Bay of Na))lcs into Long Pond, where the steamer lands at the 
thriving village of Bridgton, whence a ride of eight miles takes one to the 
summit of Pleasant Mountain, a sightly elevation commanding wide views 
of the mountains and the sea. The hotel on the top of the mountain has 
excellent accommodations and is well kept. In the pleasure season one 
may go as far as Bridgton or Harrison, take dinner at one of the hotels 
and return to Portland the same day. This is one of the most charming 
short pleasure-routes in New England. 

Continuing on the rail from Sebago Lake we soon strike across to 
Saco River, and ride up the valley to Hiram, where the Great Falls of 
the Saco, seen from the cars, j)rcsent a grand sj)ectacle ; thence through 
Fryeburg, a beautiful village, famous for the battle with the Lidians on 
the shores of Lovewell's Pond, and which attracts many summer visitors ; 
on again, to North Conway, with its lovely intervales and magnificent 
views of the White Mountains; through Upper Bartlett, a beautiful basin 
amid the hills; and so into the Notch, where the valley narrows to a 
gorge, and the road climbs the mountain side far above the river, now 
dwindled to a brook. 

The nine miles from Bemis Station to the Crawford House in the 
Notch present a panorama of mountain scenery of unequalled grandeur. 
The valley of the Saco here narrows into a rounded trough, one side of 
which is formed by the long wall of Mount Willey, and the other by the 
corresponding wall of Mount Webster. Far up on the side of Mount 
Willey a shelf has been cut, and along this the road climbs at a grade 
of one hundred and sixteen feet to the mile. One is astonished to see 
how easily the ascent is overcome. But two buttresses block the M-ay — 
Frankenstein Cliff and Mount Willard. They seem to stand out defiantly, 
forbidding farther approach, but the train glides around them, through 
deep rock cuts, and entering the gateway of the Notch, reaches the level 
table-land where the waters divide. 

The ride along this narrow shelf is a novel experience in railway 
travel. Far above rises the steep, bare wall of Mount Willey, ever threat- 
ening to send down earth and rocks to block the way. Crossing the track 
of the grand slide of fearful memory, which overwhelmed the Willey fam- 
ily, you think of what might happen again. Here and tliere the steep 
mountain wall is gashed by the beds of tumbling brooks, which seem for 
a passing moment to open a glinii)se into the heart of the mountain. 

Looking out on the other side of the cars they seem to overhang the 
dee[», wooded valley, far down beneath the foliage of which the Saco 
speeds on its course, and the old stage-road climbs upward to the gate- 



136 POBTLAND AND VICINITY. 

way of the Notch. You catch glimpses of the Willey House and of the 
huts of the railway laborers far below. But the grand feature of this 
outward view is the stupendous wall of Mount Webster rising just across 
the narrow valley, and hemming it in with its apparently inaccessible 
heights. This long bare wall, so seamed and gashed, so dark and frown- 
ing, so huge in its bulk, so massive and immovable, is the tremendous 
feature of the scene. Its long sky-line points to nothing, and makes one 
wonder what lies beyond. It seems to cut you off from an upper and 
inaccessible world. 

The view of Frankenstein Cliff, especially in the autumn, when the 
mountain slopes are clothed in all the brilliant hues of the ripened foli- 
age, is not less grand, and has more of beauty than the stern wnll of 
Mount Webster. This is only to be seen to advantage as you go down 
the valley, from the rear platform of the train. As the cars cross the 
iron bridge, which spans a fearful gorge, the cliff looms up above the ob- 
server with awful front. The eye falls first upon the forest growth about 
its base, which in the autumn glows with color like a bank of roses. Above 
this beautiful mass of color, and in strong contrast to it, rises the sheer 
precipice, a perpendicular wall of dark rock, furrowed and grim, with a 
crown of illuminated trees upon its head. But as the train moves on, 
and the cliff recedes, you see another wall, above and beyond the first, 
also fringed along its summit with brilliant hues. Thus the cliff grows 
in magnitude and grandeur as you recede from it, until at last a turn in 
the road shuts it from your view. But here comes in another grand fea- 
ture of this mountain scenery. The summit of Mount Washington is now 
seen, covered with snow, a great white dome rising clear against the blue 
sky. Cries of wonder and delight greet its appearance, and this grand 
spectacle is alternately hidden and revealed, until the train reaches Glen 
Station, where you bid adieu to its grandeur and settle down quietly for 
the homeward ride. 

The distance from Portland to the Crawford House is eighty-seven 
miles. From the Notch one may go on to Fabyan's, fi'om which point 
there is a grand view of Mount Washington. 

TO LAKE WINNEPESAUKEE, BY THE PORTLAND AND EOCHESTER. 

This road is another favorite enterprise of the business men of Port- 
land. It opens a new and direct route to New York, by way of Roches- 
ter, N. H., thence to Nashua, N. H., where it connects with the line to 
Worcester, Mass., and thence to New York, — thus saving many miles of 
travel between Portland and the great metropolis. It affords many pleas- 
ant points for excursions along the route, which passes through the vil- 
lages of Morrill's Corner, Saccarapj)a, and Gorham ; crosses the Saco River, 



I'Oirn.AM) AM) Vli'ISlTY. 137 



and runs through Waterboro' to the pleasant vilhige of Alfred, near which 
the Shakers have an establishment ; thence to Rochester, N. II., where it 
connects witli the Dover and Winnepesaukee Railroad, running to Alton 
Bay. In summer the trains are so arranged on several days of each week 
that passengers may leave Portland in the morning, reach Alton Bay, pass 
by steamer over the whole length of Winnepesaukee, and return s<> -is t.. 
get back to Portland on the evening of the same day. 

Lake Winnepesaukee is one of the most beautiful sheets of water in 
this country. It is studded with islands, and commands tine views of dis- 
tant mountains. From Alton Bay the steamers run both t<» Wolfboro' 
and to Centre Harbor. The former is a considerable village, beautifully 
situated on the shore of the lake. From this point one may take the 
train on the Conway bi*anch of the Eastern Railroad and go through 
some of the finest mountain scenery to North Conway, and so return to 
Portland by the Portland and Ogdeiisburg Railroad — a two days' trij), 
stopping over night at Wolfboro'. Or one may go by steamer to Centre 
Harbor, where a lovely view of the lake and surrounding country is ol> 
tained from the summit of Red Hill. 

TO MOUNT WASHINGTON, BY THE GRAND TRUNK. 

The Grand Trunk Railway, which connects Portland with the princi- 
pal cities and towns of Canada, and with the vast grain-growing regions 
of the west, opened a new route to the White Mountains, affording ac- 
cess to glens and gorges which up to tlie time of the opening of the road 
in 1853 had been but little visited. It runs through a number of pleas- 
ant villages, including North Yarmouth, New Gloucester, Mechanic Falls, 
South Paris, and Bryant's Pond, to Bethel, a [ilace of great natural beauty, 
seated amid the hills, which attracts great numbers of summer boarders; 
thence through fine scenery, along the Androscoggin, to Gorham, N. 11. 
Here stages take passengers seven miles up the glen to the Glen ILnise, 
kept by the Messrs. IMilliken, of this city, which stands in the heart of 
the White Mountains, at the foot oi Mount Washington. The mountain 
is ascended in carriages over a well-constructed road. From the summit 
one may descend l)y the railroad, on the other side, to Fabyan's; or, re- 
turning to the Glen House, may pass through the wild Pinkham Notch, 
amid the most stupendous mountain scenery, to Glen Station, on the Port- 
land and Ogdeusburg, and thence to Portland. 



138 POIITLAND AND VIClNirY. 



CONCLUSION. 



To sum up all, it may be said of Portland that she is a city with a 
history, dating back to the time of the earliest settlements on our coast, 
marked with varying fortunes, having four times been destroyed by fire 
or sword ; now rising to the height of prosperity, as in the flush times of 
1805, and anon depressed to stagnation, as in 1840, by the diversion of 
her trade to other points, — yet always rising from all disasters with elas- 
ticity and unconquerable spirit, and steadily, though slowly, increasing in 
population and extending her commercial operations. 

Again, she is fortunate in position, — possessing a healthful site, beau- 
tiful for situation, commanding fine views of both ocean and mountain 
scenery, with a climate which, though subject to extremes, is temperate 
on the whole, salubrious, and conducive to vigor of body and mind. The 
heats of summer are tempered by fresh breezes from the sea, and the nu- 
merous islands in her bay afford healthful resorts at her very door. As 
a summer resort she offers attractions possessed by few cities. The excel- 
lence of her hotels, the facilities for transit by rail or steamboat to all 
points of the compass, the opportunities for sea-bathing, boating, fishing, 
and gunning, the favorable sites in the vicinity for summer cottages on 
the seashore, the charms of the surrounding scenery, combining all the at- 
tractions of land and water views, united with the advantages of refined 
society, libraries, and places of amusement, — all these are yearly attract- 
ing an increasing number of summer visitors, and must continue to make 
her a popular center of summer travel. 

Portland must ever be in the future, as she has been in the past, a 
commercial city. The excellence of her harbor, offering depth of water 
and complete safety; her numerous lines of communication with all parts 
of Maine, with Canada and the great west ; and the energy and enter- 
prise of her merchants, ever on the alert to extend their business rela- 
tions, have already enabled her to command the trade of the State and 
to a considerable extent of the neighboring Provinces. Manufactures come 
in as auxiliary to her commercial operations. She has no one great inter- 
est overshadowing all others, and producing alternating seasons of jiros- 
perity and depression, with the drawbacks of a manufacturing population, 
but many minor industries contribute by their products to swell the amount 
of her trade, and extend a knowledge of her business to all parts of the 
country, and even to foreign lands. 



CONTENTS 



Pack 
CASCO B.VY 3 

PORTLAND: A Glance at its Histoky 8 

TOPOGRAPHY 21 

DISTINGUISHED PORTLANDERS . . 25 

WALKS ABOUT TOWN: 

Fkom Market Square to the East- 
ern Promenade 38 

From Market Square to the West- 
ern Promenade 54 

Fro3i Market Square to India and 
Commercial Streets 72 

THE ISLANDS: 

Cushing's Island 8S 

Peaks' Island ; 94 

Long Island 100 

Little Chebeague 101 

Haepswell 101 



PA(ir. 
DRIVES IN THE VICINITY: 

To Prout's Neck IU4 

Along Falmouth Fokeside 113 

To Evergreen Cemeteey and Pride's 
Bridge 110 

RAILROAD EXCURSIONS : 

To Old Orchard Beach, by the Bos- 
ton AND Maine 131 

To THE Interior of the State, by the 
Maine Central 133 

Along the Seashore, by the Eastern 
Railroad 134 

To Lake Sebago and the Crawford 
Notch, by the Portland and Og- 
densburo 134 

To Lake Winnepesaukee, by the 
Portland and Rochester 136 

To Mount Washington, by the Grand 
Trunk 137 

CONCLUSION 138 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Paok 

Allen Mission Chapel 65 

"And the grass literally grew upon 

the wharves " 15 

Atlantic House Ill 

Bird-shooting on Scarboro' Marshes. 109 

Breakwater Light 87 

Catholic Cathedral 49 

Casco Bank 75 

Canal Bank 77 

Chestnut-Street Church 42 

City Hall 45 

Congress Street, from Market Square 55 

Congress-Street M. E. Church 52 

Congress Square 58 

Commercial Street 84 

Custom House 83 

Cushing's Island 89 

One of the Beaches 90 

A bit of the Shore 91 

Ottawa House 91 

One of the Walks 92 

White Head 93 

Deering's Bridge 117 

Deering Mansion 117 



Paqb 

Evergreen Cemetery, 

Entrance to 122 

The ToMn< 123 

View in 124 

The Ponds 125 

Hon. Wm. Pitt Fessenden Monument 125 

Samuel Kumery's Monument. 125 

Tin: Summer House 125 

Evergreen Circle 125 

Exchange Street, from Middle to Fore 7S 

F'almouth Hotel .. 74 

Farm-Scene in East Deering 113 

F"arm-Scene near Pride's Bridge 124 

Female Orphan Asylum . >'''.* 

First Baitist Church . i • 

First Ciurch in Porti.anh. IT 

First Hoiel in Porii.and . 1" 

First National Bank 7" 

First Parish Church 41 

Franklin Wharf and New Elevator 82 
Heading ofF'ir.st Newspaper published 

IN .Maine. 13 

High-Street Church t'-' 

Home for Aged Womkn '"' 



140 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



King's Mark 12 

KiKKWooD House Ill 

Lincoln Park 48 

Longfellow House 56 

Longfellow, Birthplace of 81 

Market Square 39 

Main Road to Massachusetts 9 

Maine Savings Bank 76 

Maine General Hospital 65 

Marine Hospital 113 

Mechanics' Hall 57 

Merchants' Bank 77 

Middle Street before 1866 16 

Middle Street in Ruins 19 

Middle Street, from Cross to Union 72 

Middle Street, from Plum to Exchange 76 

Midwinter Scene 110 

MAYORS OP PORTLAND: {Frontispiece). 
1832. Andrew L. Emerson Dem. 

1832. Jonathan Dow Whig. 

1833. John Anderson Dem. 

1834-40. Levi Cutter TVkiff. 

1841. James C.Churchill Whig. 

1842. John Anderson Bern. 

1843-8. Eliphalet Greely TVhig. 

1849-50. J. B. Cahoon Whig. 

1851. Neal Dow Whig. 

1852. Albion. K. Parris Bern. 

1853-4. J. B. Cahoon Whig. 

1855. Neal Dow Repub. 

1856. James T. McCobb Bern. 

1857. William Willis Repub. 

1858-9. Jedediah Jewett Repub. 

1860. Joseph Howard Betn. 

1861-2. William W^ Thomas Repub. 

1863-5. Jacob McLellan Repub. 

1866-7. Augustus E. Stevens Repub. 

1868. Jacob McLellan Repub. 

1869. William L. Putnam Bern. 

1870-2. Benjamin Kingsbury, Jr. Repub. 
1873-4. George P. Westcott Repub. 

1875. RoswELL M. Richardson Bern. 

1876. Francis Fessenden Repub. 

Observatory 52 

Ocean House 108 

Old Orchard Beach 132 

Payson Memorial Church 46 

Peaks' Island, 

Jones's Landing 95 

"Greenwood" 97 

Trefethen's Landing 98 

Evergreen Landing. 98 

The Outer Shore. 99 

Portland in 1632 8 

Portland in 1876 20 



Portland Light 107 

Portland Savings Bank 80 

Portland Museum 43 

PORTRAITS : 

John A. Poor 17 

Parson Smith 25 

Ex-Chief-Justice Ether Shepley 27 

Judge George F. Shepley 27 

Hon. William Pitt Fessenden 28 

Hon. Israel Washburn, Jr 28 

General Neal Dow 29 

John Neal 29 

Henry W. Longfellow 30 

N. P. Willis 30 

Rev. Dr. Edward Payson 31 

Hon. William Willis 32 

Hon. John B. Brown 35 

Hon. William W. Thomas 36 

Post-Office 79 

Presumpscot River, View on the 115 

Presumpscot Park 121 

Preble House 55 

Prout's Neck 112 

PRIVATE RESIDENCES: 

Residence of Dr. H. N. Small 59 

" Judge Geo. F'. Shepley 61 

Henry Fox 62 

" General Neal Dow 63 

" Albion Little 63 

" Hon. John B. Brown 67 

" Hon. Israel Washburn, Jr. 68 

T. C. Hersey 69 

S. C. Andrews 69 

A. AND S. E. Spring 70 

" Holman S. Melcher 70 

" Ruggles S.Morse 71 

" Phillip H. Brown 106 

J. S. P.ylmer 118 

J. S. Ricker 119 

Captain J. B. Coyle 120 

Dr. S. H. Tewksbuky 120 

Ramsay's Nurseries 128 

Scene at end of Custom-House Wharf 86 

Seamen's Bethel 65 

State Street 60 

State Reform School 64 

Steamer John Brooks for Boston 88 

St, Stephen's Church 49 

Sunset from Western Promenade 65 

Swedenborgian Church 49 

Two-Lights 108 

United States Hotel 40 

Universalist Church, Imha Street... 49 

Westbrook Seminary... 127 



INDEX TO TEXT. 



Allan Steamers 
Allen Mission ... 
Army nnil Navy Union 

Artists 

Atlantic and St. Lawrenec Rjiilway 
" ]Iouse, Scarhom' Beach 

Authors 

Bisliop's Mansion 
Hoard of Trade 
Hohtiuian, Wreck of .. 
Boston and .Maine Rjiilroad 
Boulevard 

Bramhall's Hill, Elevation of 
" " View from 

•• " Why named 

Breakwater 

Business Men 

Campers-out, Numher of 
Casco Bay, Bird-shooting; iii 
" " Description of 
" " Disaster in ... 
" " Strange creatures found in 
" Street Church 
Catholic Cathedral 
Chestnut Street Church .. 

City Building 

" Hotel 

Clay Cove 
Cleaves, George 
Commercial Street 

" " Old house on 

" " Scene on 

Congress Square ... 

" Street M. E. Church 

Cumberland and O.tford Canal 

" Bar, Memhers of 

" Mills, Land-slide near 

Cushing's Island 

" " Previous names of 

" " View from 

Custom House 

" Duties collected in 1790 
" 1806 
" 1876 

Deering Mansion 

" Street 

" Woods 

Diamond Cove ... 

East Deering 

Eastern Cenieteiy 

" Promenade, View from 

Elevator, The new 

English Navy, Supplying Masts for the 

Evergreen Cemetery 

" Price of Lots in 

" Landing 

Exchange Street ... 
Falmouth Koreside 

Hotel 
Female Orphan Asylum 
Fire of 1806 
First Baptist Church .. 

" Indian War 

" LighthouHi- on Maine Coa.st 

" Morting-House, Erertion of 

" Newspaper, I'nhliration of 

" I'nrish ('liurch 

" Settlers, Lauding of 

" Steamhoat, Arrival of 



19, t; 



Page 

, 82 

50 

56 

U 

17 

111 

... 31 

47 

35,75 

109 

20, l:U 

116 

22 

07 

87 

35 

7 

C 

.•? 

86 

5 

56 

17 

43 

44 

57 

80 

25,81 

. 18,82 

... 83 

84 

... 57 

53 

... 16 

26 

. 130 

88 

. 89 

91 

... 8-t 

14 

... 14 

84 

... 118 

59 

62, 116 

102 

. 113 

51 

54 

83 

12 

123 

124 

98 

113 

74 

62 

73,80 

46 

. 10 

106 

9 

14, 32 

. 42 

8 

15 





Paof. 


First Tavern opened 

" Theatre. Ereelion of 


ID 


4.'» 


" Theatrical Performance 


«{ 


Forest City Cemetery 


126 


Fort Gorges 


88 


" Loyal, Erection of 


10 


" Preble 


87 


" ScammcU 


87 


Free Street 


73 


" Baptist Church 


57 


Grand Army 


.. 56 


" Tniiik Railway 


... 81, 1.37 


Greele. Widow Alice 


50 


Halifa.\ Steamers 


82 


llarpswell 


101 


Dead Ship of 


\(Ki 


Higgins's Beach .. 


no 


High Street Cliiireh ... 


58 


Home for Aged Women 
Huckster's Row 


70 


57 


India Street 


80 


International Steamers 


85 


Islands, The . . 


86 


" belonging to city 


21 


" Names of 


4 


" Number of . . 


5 


Population of 


21 


Journalists 


»-2 


Kirkwood House, Searboro' Beach 


110 


Knightville 


105 


Lincoln I'nrk 


... 46 


Little Chebeague 


101 


Long Island 


... 100 


Longfellow, Henry W. 


. 29,61,66,62 


" "" Birthplace of .. 


81 


House 


64 


Maine admitted into the Union . . 


15 


" Cent rul Railroad 


133 


" Charilal)lc Mechanics' Association 


66 


" First daily newspaper in 


32 


" " editor imprisoned in 


.32 


" General Hos|iilnl 


64 


" Steamship Company 


83 


Market Square 


38 


" " Riots in 


40 


Matthew Cobb House 


58 


McLellnii Mansion 


69 


Meetiiig-Ilouse Hill . 


106 


Mercantile Library Association 


.. 41 


Middle Street 


73 


Old bridge oviir 


. . 11 


Morrill's Corner 


129 


Mount Calvary Ceimtery 


126 


1 " Washiiiglon 


137 


1 Mowatt, Capture of 


52 


Munjoy's Hill, Elevation of 


22 


" " why named 


52 


Mumey's Row . ' 


74 


\ Natuiiil llistorv S<iriety 


*i 


Navy. Ollleersof 


111.115 


New Casco 


" Jerusalem Temple 


r>s 


Newspapers, I/>ration of 


7h 


1 " Managers of 


.3.1 


1 Non-intercourse Policv, and Embargo 


14 


North ,»<ch(Hil 


M) 


" Stn-et, View from ... 


64 


Observatory 


63 


Ocean House, Cape Elizalieth 


10» 



142 



INDEX TO TEXT. 



Odd Fellows' Hall 
Old Orchard Beach ... 

'I " " Fern Park 

" " Ocean House ... 

" " " Old Orchard House 

" " " 26th of June at 

Orators and Statesmen 

Park Street Church 

Payson Memorial Church 

" Rev. Dr. Edward 

Peaks' Island 

" " Disaster off 

" " Number of boarders on ... 

" " Previous names of 

" Steamboat Company 

" " View from 

Pine Street Chuch 

Plymouth Church 

Poets 

Pond Cove 

Portland, Area of 

" Burning of, by Mowatt ... 

" Commerce in 1727 

" Dry Dock Company 
" First bank incorporated in ... 
" brick house built in 
" " store built in 

" " preacher in 

" Fraternity 

" Harbor 

" A scene in 

" Head, Battery on 

in the Rebellion 

" Last execution in ... 

Light 

" Museum 

" Number of streets in 

" Oldest gravestone in 

" " hall in 

" " house in 

" Population in 1675 
" 1688 
'■ 1753 ... 
" 1800,1810 ... 

" 1876 

" Postmasters of 

Saco, and Portsmouth Railroad 
" Statistics of 
" Steam Packet Company 
" Stone Ware Company 
Styles in 1776 



... 41 

131 

... 132 

132 

... 132 

133 

... 28 

60 

... 45 

31, 46, 79 

... 94 

99 

... 95 



58 
... 29 
108 
8,21 
13 
... 11 
104 
... 14 
54 
... 14 
9 
... 57 
22 
... 87 
106 
... 18 
52 
... 106 
43 
... 23 
51 
... 57 
79 
... 9 
10 
... 11 
14 
... 21 
76 
... 134 
21 
16,83 
119 
... 12 I 



Portland, Valuation of 

and Ogdensburg Railroad 
" " Rochester Railroad 

Post-Office ■'■ 

Preble House 

Presumpscot Trotting Park 

Pride's Bridge 

Private Residences, First erection of 

Front's Neck 

Public Library 

Railways, Introduction of 
" Opening of 

Ramsay's Nurseries 

Reformers ... 

Reservoir 

Revenue Cutter Caleb Cushiiie 

Revolution, The . 

Scarboro' Beaches 

Sebago Lake 

Second Indian War 

Meeting-House, Erection of 

" Parish Church 

Smith, Captain John 

" Rev. Thomas 

" " House of 

" Tomb of ... 
Spurwink River 

St. Dominic's Church 

" Luke's Cathedral 

" Paul's Church 

" Stephen's Church 

State Reform School 
" Street 

" Church 
Stevens' Plains 
Storm on the Coast 

Thornhurst Farm 

Treaty with the Indians 

Two-Lights 

United States Hotel '" ... 

" Marine Hospital 
Universalist Church, Congress Square . 
^' " India Street ... 

" " Stevens' Plains . 

Westbrook Seminary 

Western Cemetery 

" Promenade, View from 
White Head 

" Mountain Notch 
Woodford's Corner 



20, 134 
...20, 136 
... 75 
... 38, 54 
... 123 
129 
... 14 
112 
... 44 
16 
... 20 
129 
... 29 
64 
... 18 
12 
... 110 
134 
... 10 
11 
... 79 
3,5 
... 25 
50 
... 51 
109 
... 62 
61 
... 50 
60 
... 68 
60 
... 61 
123, 126 
... 107 
114 
52, 115 
108 
... 38 
113 
... 58 
50 
... 128 
128 
... 126 
67 
... 93 
135 
... 119 



BUSINESS ANNOUNCEMENTS. 



BAILEY & NOYES, 

68-70 & 72 Exchange Street, Portland, Me., 

^Dohscllcrs auir Stationers, 

DEALERS IN PAPER HANGINGS AND CURTAINS, 

AND MANUFACTURERS OF BLANK BOOKS. 

A full and complete stock in each department. 

AGENTS FOR CHICKERING'S CELEBRATED PIANOFORTES. 



UNION MUTUAL 



INSURE IN 



Life Insurance Company THE TRAVELERS 



OF MAINE. 

(Chartered at Augusta, Me., 1848.) 



Assets, 



. $10,000,000. 



J. W. PRESSEY, General Agent, 
31J Exchange Street, 



PORTLAND, Me. 



LIFE AND ACCIDENT 

Insurance Company 

OF HARTFORD, CONN. 



Cash Assets, . . . $4,000,000. 



ANDREW J. CHASE, General Agent, 
31.^ ExcHANGK Street, 



PORTLAND, Me. 



AUG. O. LEAVITT. 



PREBLE DAVIS. 



LEAVITT & DAVIS, 



dealers in 



LADIES' AND MISSES' 

"pINE !P00T3 y\ND ^HOES. 



The celebrati'il Ncnark llaml-Seneil Work for 
(ients' Wear. 



No. 1 Elm Stkkkt, 



PORTLAND. 



BUSINESS ANNOUNCEMENTS. 



FAC-SIMILE OF MEDAL AWARDED BY MASSACHUSETTS G. M. ASSOCIATION. 





ZENAS THOMPSON, Jr., 

Successor to J. M. KIMBALL & CO., 

MANUFACTURER OF 

Fine Carriages and Sleighs, 

492 &. 494 CONGRESS STREET, 

PORTLAND, Me. 



SCHUMACHER BROS,, 

ARTISTS^ SUPPLIES, 



jvr.cLtericLls for" TVclj^ Flo^vei^ J[£cLklrhg 

IN EVERY VARIETY. 

11^ 



Jline ^rl %allerw 



PICTURE-FRAME MANUFACTORY, 



SWISS CARVINGS A SPECIALTY. 



WHOLESALE DEALERS IN PICTURE-FRAME MOULDINGS OF ALL KINDS. 

No. 463 Congress Street, 



C. J. Schumacher. 



OLD NO. 5 DEERING BLOCK. 



C. R. F. Schumacher. 



BUSINESS ANNOUNCEiMENTS. 



J. B. BROWN & SONS, 

(djaiilLerSj 

40 EXCHANGE STREET, . . . PORTLAND, Me. 
Business same as an incorporated Bank. 



Interest allowed on Deposits. Collections made at all points. 

Dealers in Government IJonds, American and Foreign Gold and Silver Coin, Dominion 
Money, Foreign E.xchange, and Boston, New York, and Montreal Gold Drafts. 

Travellers furnished with Letters of (Jredit and Bills of Exchange available in all the 
principal cities in Great Britain and the Continent of Europe. 



GEO. S. HUNT & CO., 

Importers of Sugars and Molasses. 

GENERAL COMMISSION MERCHANTS. 
AGENTS FOR THE EAGLE SUGAR REFINERY. 

Geo s Hunt HI Commercial street, 

j^ORE^T j]lTY ^UQAf^ I^^FININQ j3oMPANY, 

MANUFACTURERS OF CRUSHED, POWDERED, GRANULATED, 

ALL GRADES OF COFFEE SUGARS. 



ALSO, CRYSTAL AND SILl'ER-PRJP SYRCPS. 



Office, 111 Commercial Street, 
GEORGE S. HUNT, . . Treasurer and Manager. 

JOHN W. PERKINS & CO., 
Mbolcsidc ilruggists, 

Dealers in Paints. Oils, & Dye-Stuffs, 

74 & 76 Commercial Street, 
John w. Pkrkiss 2 «fc 4 Custom House Wharf, 

Beni. a. Perkins 

J. Henry Crockett. rORTI.AND. MaINK. 



B VSINESS A NNO UNCEMENTS. 



WOODBURY & MOULTON, 

No, 67 Exchange Street. 
DEALERS IN BONDS, STOCKS. AND SPECIE. 

Personal and prompt attention given to any inquiries. State, Municipal, and Railroad 
Bonds bought and sold on commission. 

First-class investments suitable for Savings-Banks and Trust Funds constantly on hand. 

Highest market rates paid for Government Bonds. 

Coupons collected. 

^klir\otLtl:( Sotel, 

PORTLAND. ME. 

This elegant and commodious Hotel is finished and furnished with every regard to comfort 
and lu.xury. The Parlors and Sleeping-Rooms are large and well ventilated, and arranged for 
private families. It is 

FIRST-CLASS IN ALL ITS APPOINTMENTS. 

The aim is to make this the most unexceptionable Hotel in New England. 

This is the only one in Maine that has an Elevator, one of the greatest luxuries to 

the weary Traveller. 

The undersigned trusts that his long e.xperience in the Hotel business will give confidence 
to his friends and the travelling public, that they will receive every attention and comfort, with 
reasonable charges. 



See page 73. 



L. STEVENS, Manager. 



D. W. TRUE & CO., 

WHOLESALE DEALERS IN 

]i^LOUR, ^(^ROCERIEp, AND pROVI^ION^, 
141 Commercial Street, 

D, W. True. PORTLAND. L. M. Cousens. 



BUSINESS ANNOUNCEMENTS. 



carter 13ros., 

Fine Watches, Jewelry, 

SILVER AND PLATED WARE, 

521 Congress, cor. Casco St., . . Portland, Me. 



A FINE FULL STOCK, CAREFULLY SELECTED. 



FIRST-CLASS IN EVERY RESPECT. 



M. s. Gibson & Co Proprietors, 

PORTLAND, ME. 



M. S. GinsoN. 
See piiKo .'^.'S. 






Geo. 


Waterhouse. I 

1 


F rst-C ass Gen 

A SPLENDID STOCK OF 


IS 

NICE 


^urn s 

GOODS AHV 


1 r 

DER. 
& 


g Store. 

ON HAND. 

CO. 

Portland. 


FINE SHIRTS 

CHARLES 

493 Congress Street, 


MADE TO OR 
C II ST IS 



BUSINESS ANNOUNCEMENTS. 



CHARLES H. KIMBALL, 




180| Middle Street, Boyd Block, Portland. 



Designs, Plans, Details, Specifications, Superintendence, etc., for every de- 
scription of building. 



UNITED STATES HOTEL, 

PORTLAND, MAINE. 

The above popular house, centrally situated in the business quarter of the beau- 
tiful Forest City, and in close proximity to the leading places of amusement and 
public buildings, has been thoroughly remodelled, refurnished, and enlarged, and is 
now open to the public. 

Billiard Rooms, Bath Rooms, Barber Shop, and Sample Rooms for Com- 
mercial Travellers, in connection -with the house. 

PERMANENT AND TRANSIENT BOARDERS 

ACCOMMODATED ON REASONABLE TERMS. 



See page 40. 



WOLCOTT & CO.. Proprietors. 



1876 GET GOODS. 1876 

A FRESH STOCK OF NEW GOODS FOR SPRING AND SUMMER TRADE IN 
ALL THE NEW AND DESIRABLE 

DRESS GOODS. 

HOUSEKEEPING AND DOMESTIC GOODS 

ALWAYS AT THE VERY LOWEST PRICES, AT 

P. M. FROST'S, 

Oorner Slor-e, lander KalmoTith Hotel. 



BUSINJiSS ANNOUNCEMENTS. 



F. H. fassi<:tt cV- son, 



*IA^, 



No. 101 MIDDLE STREET, 
PORTLAND, Me. 



1835. NEW ENGLAND 1876. SIGN OF THE LARGE GOLD HAT. 

MUTUAL j 

LIFE INSURANCE CO. ^- ^- MERRY, 



OF BOSTON. 

B. F. Stevens, Fns'/. 

JOS. M. G.BBENs, ^.<v. 237 Middle Street. Portland. 



J-(atter, 



No Forfeiture. Every policy protected by " Mass. 
Law." 

No Tontines! or KanihliiiR contracts issued by 
this Company. 

Equity, Justice, and I'rudence .ire its watch- 
words. 

|3^~ Send or call for documents. 

GENERAL OFFICE, 

Cor. Middle and Exchange Sts., Portland, Me. 



V. C. TARBOX. Genl Agent. 



DEALER IN 



Ilctts, 

Ftzts, 

^liobcs, 

AND 

TrcL I 'cll i 1 1 (J clj( I (/^^ • 



THE LARGEST STOCK OF FURNITURE 

IN MAINE 

CAN BE FOUND AT No. 46 EXCHANGE STREET. 

Our Prices are always the lowest. All Furniture bought of us warranted a3 represented. 



Manufaclurers and Dealers in all kinds of Furniture. 

GEO. A. WHITNEY & CO.. 

No. 46 Exchange Street, .... Portland, Me. 



BUSINESS ANNOUNCEMENTS. 



SMALL, KNIGHT, & CO., 

MANUFACTURERS OF 

Cabinet, Parlor, and Chapel Organs, 

OFFICE AND WAREROOMS : 

154 EXCHANGE STREET, PORTLAND, Me. 



UNSURPASSED IN TONE. DESIGN, AND WORKMANSHIP! 

Every purchaser of which may be sure that he obtains, according to its size, capacity, style, and price, the best 
instrument which it is practicable in the present state of the art to construct. 

^W^ Illustrated Catalogue and Price-List free to any address. 



WM. H. OHLER, 

AND 

Sewing- Machine Repairer. 

ALL KINDS OP SEWING-MACHINES REPAIRED. 



OHLER'S AMERICAN OIL 

Does not gum or become rancid. 2a cents per Bottle 



NEEDLES OF ALL KINDS 

50 cents per dozen. 

Sent by return mail to all parts of the country. 

Thj largest assortment of SHUTTLES, NEEDLES, 
and parts of all kinds of Machines in the State 
Wholesale and Retail. 



Over 18,000 Macliines Repaired. 

258 MIDDLE STREET, 

Over H. H. Hay's, PORTLAND, Me. 




THE LARGEST AND ONLY COMPLETE 

CUTLERY ESTABLISHMENT 

THIS SIDE OF BOSTON. 



Besides our large stock of the best and finest 

Imported Cutlery, 

we would call the special attention of the public to our 

own manufacture of 

Every description of Knives, Kazors, 

Shears, and Scissors, 

ALL KINDS OF EDGE TOOLS MADE TO ORDER. 
Every Article Warranted. 

tEg^ Special attention given to Concaving and Honing 
Razors, Grinding Shears and Scissors. 

ULMER &. HEHR, 

35 Temple Street, - - Portland. 




DR. W. R. JOHNSON, 

§miki 

OflBce over H. H. Hay's Apothecary Store, 

Junction Free and Middle Streets, PORTLAND. 

Dr. J. has been in dental practice twentv-five years. He is the first dentist in Portland who built up with 
Gold, to their original form, teeth that were half or more gone bv decay, and they are made durable by him, too. 
Dr. J. IS also the first in Portland who prepared NITROUS OXIDE, or LAUGHING GAS, while 
under the administration of which he EXTRACTS TEETH WirHOUT PAIN. Ether also is administered 
by him with perfect safety. Dr. J. has all necessary facilities for fitting 

ARTIFICIAL TEETH, 

from one to a full set, on GOLD, SILVER, or VULCANITE RUBBER. He is using a new material for 
artificial teeth, which is far superior to either gold or rubber Persons in want of a good, practical, success- 
ful, and experienced Dentist will do well to give him a call before going elsewhere. He takes no advantage of 
his patrons by charging exorbitant or fancy prices. 



BUSINESS ANNOUNCEMENTS. 



SWAN & BARRETT, 

^aizkers aitd (dJrol-Lars, 

200 Middle St., Portland, 

Dealers in Government, State, City, Town, and Railroad Bonds, 

Bank Stock and Gold. 

\^^ A specialty nLide of Securities suitable for Savings-Banks, and for the investment of 
Trust Funds. 

Franxis K. Swan. F. R. Barrett. George P. Barrett. 

PORTLAND STEAM PACKET COMPANY. 

DAILY LINE OF FIRST-CLASS STEAMERS BETWEEN 

Portland and Boston, 



THROIGHOI'T THE YEAR. 



^.- /^ ,1 - 



fr 

if. 

i. 



r 




ONE OF THE FIRST CLASS SIDE WHEEL STEAMERS OF THIS LINE, 

JOHN BROOKS, - - - FALMOUTH, - - - FOREST CITY, 

Will leave FRANKLIN WHARF, Portland, and INDIA WHARF, Boston, every evening. Sundays 
excepted, arriving in season to m.ike connections with tlie earliest morning trains. 

The Steamers of this line are well furnished, and have a large number of ELEGANT AND AIRV 
STATE ROOMS. 

LEA\'E BOSTON, In Summer, at 7 P. M. In Winter, at 5 P. M. 
" PORTLAND, at 7 P. HI., throiiKl>out llie year. 

WM. WEEKS, Agent, J. B. COYLE, Jr., Gen. Ag't, 

India Wharf. Boston. See paces 16,83. Franklin Wharf. Portland. 



STEPHEN BERRY, , ^smm 



:>^WC, 



Exchange Street after the Oreat Fire 

No. 37 PLUM STREET, 



PORTLAND, ME. 



10 BUSINESS ANNOUNCEMENTS. 



m 



LORING, SHORT, & HARMON 



^VA^* 



Blank-Book Manufacturers. 

UNDER THE FALMOUTH HOTEL, 

PORTLAND. 

GLEN HOUSE, 

White Mountains, N. H. 



* »«» > 



This widely known favorite Summer resort will be reopened June i6, 1876. It 
is one of the largest summer resorts in the United States, elegantly furnished, and 
every room lighted with gas. Is the only house where its extensive piazzas hold a 
front and grand commanding view, from base to summit, of Mts. Washington, Jef- 
ferson, Adams, and Madison, head of Tuckerman Ravine, and the Carter Range ; 
forraing the finest panorama to be obtained in the whole Mountain region of New 
Hampshire. It is also noted for an immediate relief it gives to the many who are 
afflicced with Catarrh and Hay Fever. 
Address, until June 15, 

W. & 0. R. MILLIKEN, 
After June 15, Glen House, N. H. Portland, Me. 



GEO. A. JONES, 

Lecture and Musical Agency, 

517 Washington Street, 

BOSTON. 



Lyceum Committees, Societies, and Managers furnished with the finest Lecture and Musical 
talent at lowest prices. Prices and list furnished on application. 



BUSINESS ANNOUNCEMENTS. 



11 



POBTLANG MUSEUM, 



Corner t'oiij?ress and Exclinngo Streets. 



I. T. WYER, 



PROPRIETOR. 



SEASOy FROM OCTOBER TO ,/USE. 



Here may be witnessed the Best Dramatic Entertainments, with a constant and unfailing 
supply of novelties. 

Every Evening and on Wednesday and Saturday Afternoons, in which appear a 
large and most popular Stock Company. 

See page 43. 



INTERNATIONAL 




Steamship Company,' 

LIXE OF STEAMERS BETWEEX 

BOSTON, PORTLAND, EASTPORTj 

ST. JOHN, N. B. 



W. C. CLARK, 

205 
Federal Street, 

5 doors East of Temple St., 
PORTLAND, HE. 




<^A3 AND -V/aTER pIPINQ. 



-'^ ^ T g^ Gasand Water Pipe in- 

-■<i22f'^^°'l Jlv'X^r^-^ troducedinto Houses, i 

J^^^^S^ Jk-y^i-J^X Halls. Hotels, and | 

"^ ""^^ ■^JK^'^Yiic.' > ^^ Public Buildings in a ^ 

XJ^F'^^^'^' V '^''•if"' •"="""■ Also, I 

jfeffPO'V ^\ '' ('.>^ Fixtures, Images \ 

'n|V_^<2^%ttt^Yj ' I'usts rebronied i 

'^^-■n-rr-"^=3*^' .U.J m.ide to look as 

" ^^^ ^~^ good as new. 

CALAIS, Me., HALIFAX, N. S., gas hix.s \.m> .iki> .made to oudek. 



WITH CONNECTIONS TO 




CHARLOTTETOWN, P. E.I., 
&c., &c., &c. 



PLUMBING 

of iill kin<I-< pniiiiptly attfiKloiI to. 



CompovLrul Si/rnp of J^iUKjwort 

FOR COUGHS, COLDS, 

AND ALL DISKASK.S OK THK 

THROAT A?^n T.ITIVC;?;. 

REFERENCES, - - - ALL THOSE WHO HAVE USED IT. 



C. WAY it CO., Proprietors, PORILANM. M 



12 BUSINESS ANNOUNCEMENTS. 



THE 



PORTLAND TRANSCRIPT 



^ Ftrst-ClcLSs Lttei^cury 'Wee'kly, 

Filled with Original Stories and Sketches, by the best writers ; Poems, Essays ; 
Sketches of Travel and Adventure ; Reviews of and Extracts from New Books ; 
Editorial Comments on Passing Events ; Letters from Tourists ; Foreign and 
Domestic News ; State and City Items ; Fun and Sentiment ; Illustrated Rebuses, 
Puzzles, Enigmas, &c. ; Markets and Commercial Review ; Marine List. 

TERMS : 
$ 2.50 per year. $ 2.00 if paid strictly in Advance. 



Clubbing with other Periodicals. 

The Publishers of the Transcript have made arrangements with the leading 
Magazines and other Periodicals, by which they can furnish most of the reading 
matter desired, at rates much below those charged when not taken in club. 

Send for specimen copy of Portland Transcript. 

For full particulars, address, 

ELWELL, PICKARD, & CO., 

Portland, Me. 



^0 yVoVERTI^ER^. 



The Transcript has a limited space devoted to advertisements, and its great 
circulation makes it the best possible medium for business men desiring to 
attract attention. Its circulation surpasses that of any other paper, daily or 
weekly, in the city, in the county, and in the State. 

For further information and for terms, apply to the publishers. 

ELWELL, PICKARD, & CO., 

44 Exchange St., Portland, Me. 



B USINESS ANNU UNCEMENTS. 



13 



Mvotclieud Lakt 




PORTLAND AND OGDE NSBURG RAILROAD. 

The Pleasure Route (o the While Mountains! 

RUNS INCONNECIKJN W 1 r H ALL LINKS CtNIRlNG Al PORTLAND. 



THE SHORTEST AXD MOST ATTRACTIVE ROUTE 

Til 

NORTH CONWAY, 
"Glen," "Crawford," "Fabyan," "Twin Mountain," and "Profile" 

Houses, 

AND 

SUMMIT OF MOUNT WASHINGTON. 

OBSERVATION CARS 

THKUUCM THK FAMOUS 

^^^TTTTF. MO UKTAIN W ) 7V If. 



For information of running of trains and connections, see Time-Tables and Circulars. 
CHAS. H. FOYE, G. T. A. .1. H. A MILTON, Sup't. 

Depot in Portland : Commercial, foot of State Street. 



14 BUSINESS ANNOUNGEMENTS. 

WILLIAM SENTEB & CO., 

NAUTICAL, OPTICAL, AND MATHEMATICAL INSTRUMENTS, 

No. 54 EXCHANGE STREET, 
vvM. sENTER. Portland, Maine. wm. senter, jr. 



AGENTS FOR WALTHAM WATCHES. 




Founded in 1785. 

The Oldest Newspaper in Maine. 



THE ONLY EVENING PAPER IN PORTLAND. 

FOTTR EDITIONS DAILY. 

- •♦• 

The Advertiser has a large city circulation, is sold on all the afternoon trains running out of Portland, and 
at the principal stations, and reaches the seaside and mountain resorts near Portland on the evening of publication, 
with the latest news forwarded by the agents of the Associated Press from all parts of the world 

For several years, the owners and managers of summer resorts have recognized the excellence of the Adver- 
TisFR as a medium for addressing their patrons ; and advertisers in general, who wish to reach the people of Port- 
land, the travelling public, or summer visitors on the Maine Coast or in the White Mountains, will find no better 
opportunity than through the same columns. The Advertiser last year published more advertisements of 
summer resorts and boarding-places than all the other papers in Maine together. 

A special feature of the advertising columns is the cheap cash rate, — a cent .\ line for each publication. 
Seven words make a nonpareil line, and twelve lines make an inch. This rate is offered only for cash in advance. 

Orders by mail promptly attended to. Address 

DAILY ADVERTISER, 
197 Federal Street, Portland, Me. 



^ LJV^JE JVEV^SrJ^rER 




HAS A LARGER CIRCULATION THAN EVER BEFORE REACHED BY ANY SUNDAY 

PAPER IN MAINE. 

IT IS 

The only Sunday paper east of Boston receiving the Associated Press Despatches. 

It has all the late local news up to four o'clock Sunday morning, a weekly fashion article, dramatical and musical 
notes, and other good reading. 

Its Large Circulation makes it one of the best advertising mediums in the city. 

GILES O. BAILEY, Publisher, 

At WiUiams' Block, Five doors below City Hall. 



BUSINESS ANNOUNCEMENTS. 



THE POPULAR AN/^ FAVORITE ROUTE. 
SHORTEST LINE BETWEEN 



PORTLAND AND NEW YORK. 




1 



o 



CD 



CD 



1/ 




J 



>'o Vexatious Truusrers I Xo Dohiys ! Fii-t»t>claiiS Kfiuipim ii<>< • ' 'r "! 



16 



BUSINESS ANNOUNCEMENTS. 



j. h. lamson, 

Portrait Photographer, 

244 Middle, corner of Cross Street, 

PORTLAND, ME. 



MOTTO: Good Work at Moderate Prices. - - - AIM: To Please. 
COPYING AND ENLARGING DONE TO ORDER. 



''Tlje Best Insurance at tlje Lowest Consistent Rates." 
BARNES BROTHERS, 

General Insurance Agents, 

28 Exchange Street, Portland, Me., 

REPRESENTING 

First-Class, Reliable, and Independent Companies, furnishing 
the Most Undoubted Indemnity! 



TICKETS TO ALL POINTS SOUTH AND WEST, by the most desirable routes, 
and at Lowest Prices. 

Portland Agents of PORTLAND AND WORCESTER Line, PENNSYLVANIA Rail- 
road, etc., etc. 

R. S. RAND, 

WHOLESALE AND RETAIL DEALER IN 

■pROCKERY, J[IhINA, ^Ql^Agg, fluTLERY, pLATED-V/ARE, 

AHO FAHCY GOOQS, 

DOOR PLATES AND HOUSE NUMBERS. 

569 CONGRESS STREET, 



Near Green Street, 



PORTLAND, Me. 



I 

I 



